RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

3 bar OS is speed density.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Truck tunes
It's used to make the afr pig rich when towing

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Ha! Was my point correct?
Dyno will show TQ peak, unless you have a loose TQ converter.
Blows right past it.

truckdoug

iTrader: (26)

all my stuff is based off truck and van OS's

cant find that table in any OS for p01 or p59 computers

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

Then why is 7psi pegging your table? Something seems wonky there. That normally only happens when you have the MAF hooked up.

LetsTurboSomething

I cant find it either and HPtuners manual says its there too. Says it is used during lean cruise mode, maybe that means lean cruise has to be enabled for it to show?

JoeNova

Happens to me too. Your g/cyl will max out early depending on OS, engine size, injector data etc.

Scaling the tune will give you a lot more resolution.

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

You should still be able to get 14PSI out of the 2 BAR SD maps before its "pegged" per say. Done everything from 5.3-7.4L's with stock to 210lb injectors and they all reacted the same.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

Every gen 3 I've done pegs the cylinder air mass at 1.20g on the timing table. 2 bar SD takes the VE table up to 210 kpa for fueling, but does nothing for the timing table.

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

Maybe thats the difference, I dont **** with much old stuff. About oldest car I do with stock ECM is 2006 and on those its fine. Anyone trying to make power on older stuff usually has standalone.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

I've got friends in the 1200 rwhp + range with stock 0411 ecu's. Is it the best thing at that power level? Probably not, but for a street car that drives to and from the track and runs 5.0x in the 1/8th it proves factory ecu's are capable.

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

Ya you can do it, but its often not worth risking the engine worth thousands more than a standalone ecm just to say you have a stock ecm at some point. It’s not so much the ability to run the engine its more about the safeties builtin to aftermarket ECM’s. Most all of us drive to and from the track, I dont want a car that can’t and having a stock ECM vs a standalone has no impact on that. I have no problems making 1000+ on stock ECM, really just depends on the setup. It’s a lot easier to run a 7.0L on 20psi vs. 5.3L on 35psi on a stock ECM.

truckdoug

iTrader: (26)

gen3/24x stuff is what is most common so that's what most of us mess with.

it's not that much of handicap in a automatic with a mild converter.

certainly makes reading logs easy. command this timing in this row and if at WOT it aint that...well something is fucked up haha

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

Making the power is certainly easier than running the ET these days. Not very many people driving a car that runs 5.0x on a nonprep knocking on the 4 second door to and from the track.

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

I wouldn't say 24x is most common, in all reality there's way more gen4/58x stuff out there now just based on number of years in production. Gen3/24x only had 7-8 years on the market, gen4 stuff has been out for 13-14 years at this point so there's plenty of it out there and almost all the fast SBE's are Gen4. Both are cheap so if buying one you may as well get one that holds more power.

I get it, you can make the stock stuff work. But to me choosing an ECM is more about the overall ability vs cost. If you have to buy hptuners, wideband, boost controller, 2 step, bump box, etc etc... when you could just buy Holley and have much more capacity and control over the entire car for the same price, why not? Then factor in the price of fueling, up until the last few years with the cheap high z 210lb injectors readily available you had to have a driver box to run low z injectors with the stock ECM which added more expense or you paid big $$ for high flow high z injectors. When I first went Holley the injector savings alone paid for the whole swap. I think its a bit easier now that you can throw in a flex fuel sensor, 210's and an SD tune and let the stock ECM work but there are still drawbacks. I run both so I'm not totally biased to either one, both have their place and benefits for sure.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I think what @truckdoug is getting at is there are a lot on this site that are Fbody/GTO/vette owners which are mostly GEN 3 besides the newer vettes. The Gen 4 stuff is better, no argument, just most don't go through the hassle of ripping out their GEN 3 stuff to swap in GEN 4 stuff.

LetsTurboSomething

Has to be dependent on where you are. Good luck finding much gen 4 here. You just don't find it yet. Sometimes maybe...but I've seen one single aluminum block 5.3 here for sale they wanted $1500 for it. Gen 3 LM7's everywhere for $400 though. Any gen 4 i find is $1000+ and half the time it won't have a VCM or harness with it. Hell most wont even have the intake still. I can't find a 6.0 or 6.2 to save a life.

So here i would say the gen 3 stuff out numbers the gen 4 stuff in the junk yards and scrappers like 3:1. I managed to find a cross over engine with gen3 externals and gen4 internals and it was like winning the lottery.

I think its just that the gen3 stuff is now clapped out bumper to bumper and the whole vehicle ends up parted out, people keep fixing stuff thats newer. At least in Alaska it feels like this. I can't find engines at the junk yards ever, everyone buys back their totaled rigs from the insurance companies and sells it for parts and you go pick the thing in their driveways...it's annoying lol.

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

Last few Gen 4 engines I've got off ebay for under $600 shipped complete intake to oilpan, two of which were aluminum, one of which was 3 months ago and prices haven't changed in 5 years. I paid a little more once for a Gen4 6.0 with LS3 heads and sold the heads for $450 so it was a wash. I'm sure you could pay the difference in shipping to Alaska and still be cheaper then what you are paying to locals, or you could move lol

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

On the flip plenty of newer Camaros, CTSV2, C6's, G8's, SS, TBSS, trucks, etc on here as well.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

For the most part those guys aren’t doing cheap as possible junk yard builds though either. If doing a swap or insane race build the aftermarket stuff may make more sense. If doing a build with a car that already has gen 3 ecu/wiring harness Id recommend sticking with that.