Aster bracket users - gotta question
Aster bracket users - gotta question Am I really going to have to put washers between my CBR pulley and the ATI damper in order for the Aster tensioner setup to work??
As of now I have the CBR pulley bolted to the ATI damper. I have the tensioner pulley spaced out to where it is inline with the CBR pulley. I used my laser alignment tool to verify this. Problem is now the tensioner pulley is rubbing up against my stock power steering pulley.
Id appreciate it if you guys could let me know what shims and spacer you used and what worked for you.
thanks
As of now I have the CBR pulley bolted to the ATI damper. I have the tensioner pulley spaced out to where it is inline with the CBR pulley. I used my laser alignment tool to verify this. Problem is now the tensioner pulley is rubbing up against my stock power steering pulley.
Id appreciate it if you guys could let me know what shims and spacer you used and what worked for you.
thanks
I didnt have to put washers with mine. Sounds like you could use a little bit of a smaller belt. There is a aftermarket pulley thats aluminum that will give you more room for the tensioner to move
You can't shim the CBR pulley. There is a lip that that is machined into the pulley that mates up to the ATI pulley to keep it perfectly round. If you shim it the pulley will only be supported by the bolts and will move around and cause you big problems. Been there done that.
Yep. Stock PS pulley is wider than the after market ones so you can use one of the machined aluminum ones to gain some clearance. If you have access to a lathe you can shave off a bit of the pulley lip. I can slip about two sheets of paper between my pulley and the s/c tensioner bolt. It's fugging tight, but the s/c pulley alignment is most important to keep the belt alive. Another trick is to grind off some of the tensioner bolt, but not too much so that you can't get a wrench on it.
Also, if this is a brand new kit you won't have this problem. But my bracket has had the same tensioner for about 5 years and after a while it starts to lean into the PS pulley. You can either replace the tensioner or shim it out a tiny bit. Had no problems forever then it started rubbing on the alum PS pulley. Started seeing all this glitter in the engine bay and a slight ticking sound.
Yet another trick is to get a PS pulley installer and push the PS pulley in a bit since it's just a friction fit it can adjust. Just make sure the alignment with the other pulleys is still good.
You're on the right track with belt alignment. The laser tool takes the guess work out of it. Just make sure everything lines up the crank pulley and you'll have a happy happy s/c.
Yep. Stock PS pulley is wider than the after market ones so you can use one of the machined aluminum ones to gain some clearance. If you have access to a lathe you can shave off a bit of the pulley lip. I can slip about two sheets of paper between my pulley and the s/c tensioner bolt. It's fugging tight, but the s/c pulley alignment is most important to keep the belt alive. Another trick is to grind off some of the tensioner bolt, but not too much so that you can't get a wrench on it.
Also, if this is a brand new kit you won't have this problem. But my bracket has had the same tensioner for about 5 years and after a while it starts to lean into the PS pulley. You can either replace the tensioner or shim it out a tiny bit. Had no problems forever then it started rubbing on the alum PS pulley. Started seeing all this glitter in the engine bay and a slight ticking sound.
Yet another trick is to get a PS pulley installer and push the PS pulley in a bit since it's just a friction fit it can adjust. Just make sure the alignment with the other pulleys is still good.
You're on the right track with belt alignment. The laser tool takes the guess work out of it. Just make sure everything lines up the crank pulley and you'll have a happy happy s/c.
