Question for ceramic coating turbo parts
Question for ceramic coating turbo parts I want to get my turbo hot side parts ceramic coated. I'm masking off the areas I do not want coated, but am not sure about the v-band flanges. Should the flanges get coated or no? Will coating the flanges cause issues with installing the v-band clamps?
I agree. I’m not coating the mated surfaces. I was curious about the backside of the flanges where the v-band actually clamps onto the flange. I don’t think ceramic coating (ie. Jet Hot) is super thick. Not sure if it really matters or not so I wanted to ask.
I coated the vbands. But it depends on the style of vband. I coat my own with creakote ceramic coating and it’s super thin like a mil or less. The vband clamp will scratch the coating off a little but I like coating it better than leaving it bare. I did. Not coat my bellow as I figured if it flexes/expands then the coating will chip/flake.
Last edited by customblackbird; Jul 27, 2019 at 09:49 PM.
I coated the vbands. But it depends on the style of vband. I coat my own with creakote ceramic coating and it’s super thin like a mil or less. The vband clamp will scratch the coating off a little but I like coating it better than leaving it bare. I did. Not coat my bellow as I figured if it flexes/expands then the coating will chip/flake.
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I blast the parts with 70grit aluminum oxide which breaks down quickly against stainless and becomes finer. Then I use creakote air cure ceramic with a HF $8 air brush and HF air brush compressor. The coating is like $80 for 16oz or $40 for 4oz and I have used 10-12oz but I coated 4 turbos, my whole
front mount hot side and down pipe half way down the car, 2 sets of shorty turbo headers, a set of exhaust manfolds and dual 38mm gates, timing cover, valve covers. I use about .5-.75oz per header. Let it air cure for 24hrs and it can be handled and installed. Full cure in 5 days or you can install and the exhaust heat will cure it faster. It’s the easiest and best coating I’ve used thus far.
My blaster is $130 from HF (40lb. Last cabinet) and I got 50lbs of 70 grit from HF. All together prob $300-350 invested and I’ve coated over $1000 worth of parts easily. Guy quoted me $350 for just my headers. Stuff is tuff and sticks really well.
front mount hot side and down pipe half way down the car, 2 sets of shorty turbo headers, a set of exhaust manfolds and dual 38mm gates, timing cover, valve covers. I use about .5-.75oz per header. Let it air cure for 24hrs and it can be handled and installed. Full cure in 5 days or you can install and the exhaust heat will cure it faster. It’s the easiest and best coating I’ve used thus far.
My blaster is $130 from HF (40lb. Last cabinet) and I got 50lbs of 70 grit from HF. All together prob $300-350 invested and I’ve coated over $1000 worth of parts easily. Guy quoted me $350 for just my headers. Stuff is tuff and sticks really well.
Last edited by customblackbird; Jul 29, 2019 at 05:59 PM.
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May I suggest using a small bead of Hi-Temp Orange Silicon on the v-band flanges?
My wastegate was prone to leaking and nothing I tried seemed to work so I tried a little RTV and now its sealed.
My wastegate was prone to leaking and nothing I tried seemed to work so I tried a little RTV and now its sealed.
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It's not the seal perse that I would be worried about but keeping it from having a place to start chipping from. Once you get a scratch or crack in it, it gives a place for water to get under and start doing its oxidation under the coating. So not coating things where they are sure to get scratched and cracked is my default. But honestly, in a group like this, I assume we all take **** a part and put it back together pretty regularly since we pretty much all do the labor ourselfs on this stuff. So you can just recoat stuff and it's not a big deal...
I blast the parts with 70grit aluminum oxide which breaks down quickly against stainless and becomes finer. Then I use creakote air cure ceramic with a HF $8 air brush and HF air brush compressor. The coating is like $80 for 16oz or $40 for 4oz and I have used 10-12oz but I coated 4 turbos, my whole
front mount hot side and down pipe half way down the car, 2 sets of shorty turbo headers, a set of exhaust manfolds and dual 38mm gates, timing cover, valve covers. I use about .5-.75oz per header. Let it air cure for 24hrs and it can be handled and installed. Full cure in 5 days or you can install and the exhaust heat will cure it faster. It’s the easiest and best coating I’ve used thus far.
My blaster is $130 from HF (40lb. Last cabinet) and I got 50lbs of 70 grit from HF. All together prob $300-350 invested and I’ve coated over $1000 worth of parts easily. Guy quoted me $350 for just my headers. Stuff is tuff and sticks really well.
front mount hot side and down pipe half way down the car, 2 sets of shorty turbo headers, a set of exhaust manfolds and dual 38mm gates, timing cover, valve covers. I use about .5-.75oz per header. Let it air cure for 24hrs and it can be handled and installed. Full cure in 5 days or you can install and the exhaust heat will cure it faster. It’s the easiest and best coating I’ve used thus far.
My blaster is $130 from HF (40lb. Last cabinet) and I got 50lbs of 70 grit from HF. All together prob $300-350 invested and I’ve coated over $1000 worth of parts easily. Guy quoted me $350 for just my headers. Stuff is tuff and sticks really well.
Hard to say but I coated a few and they look clean on the inside. I also use water meth which keeps the chambers and header stupid clean, basically a steam clean. I haven’t put a ton of miles on mine but I put 2k on some Hemi shorties coated inside and out and they had no issues or chipping in about 2 months. I have yet to see the creakote chip at all or flake. The stuff is wicked tuff compared to normal paints and stuff.