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Hey guys, I finally have everything purchased and about to start welding the manifolds and IC pipes. Curious where I may fall with HP and if you guys think I am shorting myself on power? Is my fuel injectors enough? Intake to small? Etc.
what would you change to to squeeze alittle more power before getting a full tune done?
5.3 Lm7, 3200lb car
Twin Turbos: http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=0&cspheader=1
Dual 40mm precision wastegates
Truck manifolds 2.5” to 1.25’ long Pipe connected to each turbo(T4)
Full 2.5” piping with large SMICs (fits car)
full 3” exhaust
deka 80lb injectors and returnless 58psi Holley rail
ls1 intake
92mm TB
706 heads
btr steel retainers and valve seats
btr dual titanium valve springs
btr harden push rods
btr stage 2 cam (card in picture)
ls9 headgaskets
.030 bored block with factory resized Rods with ARP hardware
ARP head and main studs
4.10 rear end
5spd trans (300zx, car swap is installed on)
What am I looking at for power now vs what gains could I get if I was to change one of the parts you would change out?
Hey guys, I finally have everything purchased and about to start welding the manifolds and IC pipes. Curious where I may fall with HP and if you guys think I am shorting myself on power? Is my fuel injectors enough? Intake to small? Etc.
what would you change to to squeeze alittle more power before getting a full tune done?
Truck manifolds 2.5” to 1.25’ long Pipe connected to each turbo(T4)
Full 2.5” piping with large SMICs (fits car)
full 3” exhaust
deka 80lb injectors and returnless 58psi Holley rail
ls1 intake
92mm TB
706 heads
btr steel retainers and valve seats
btr dual titanium valve springs
btr harden push rods
btr stage 2 cam (card in picture)
ls9 headgaskets
.030 bored block with factory resized Rods with ARP hardware
ARP head and main studs
4.10 rear end
5spd trans (300zx, car swap is installed on)
What am I looking at for power now vs what gains could I get if I was to change one of the parts you would change out?
Twin turbos and 80lb injectors? What are your power goals?
Not quite sure... I feel like 600whp would be a fun car but after reading all the 5.3/6.0 builds, seems like I could get more out of it.
wouldnt mind trying to max out these turbos if all other parts could keep up. Not sure what HP these turbos would do for the v8 though. The LS world is very new to me.
EDIT : car will only run 93. Closest e85 is 35min away. Don’t feel like buying flex fuel setup just to run it once in awhile. Hoping I can get by with hptuners on the factory ecu. I could buy another ecu if tuner suggests it.
Gen 3 or gen 4 rods?
What regulator for your returnless setup?
Meth injection?
3" full exhaust, mufflers, or dumps?
Given the current info, 850 wheel.
No regulator, it’s built into the fuel filter for the returnless setup. Gives steady 58 psi all the time.
no meth injection
gen 3 rods.
full 3” exhaust with a name brand cat back 3” so mufflers and resonators. I thought about dump tubes if I went from 3” to a 2.5” catback. Just figured full 3” would be best.
i haven’t purchase the exhaust past the 3” downpipes just yet, so I’m open to options for that. I don’t wanna do meth as I plan to drive this thing a lot around town. I would be ecstatic if I hit 800whp!
so I will prob hit the track once or twice a year when cars done. I would most likely have a ton of fun cruising with this thing and being on the highway. That’s mainly why I went twin turbo. Want the spool quick. After it’s all together and if I do hit 800ish hp then maybe I should make it auto? I’ve done some reading for that. I friend had a built th400 and that thing was INSTANT switching gears. I just don’t wanna take away from my highway fun if I went auto. Also I can install 3.69 gears that bolt into car.
that is a bigger cam than I would use for 600 hp. i'd size down to 21x/22x and like .550 lift for valvetrain stability
but that is just my free advice
and you know the old saying, free advice is worth every penny
Thanks for input. Do you think this current cam would be rough to drive around town with or bad idle? Or just unnecessary size for the 6-800hp that was mentioned?
No regulator, it’s built into the fuel filter for the returnless setup. Gives steady 58 psi all the time.
no meth injection
gen 3 rods.
full 3” exhaust with a name brand cat back 3” so mufflers and resonators. I thought about dump tubes if I went from 3” to a 2.5” catback. Just figured full 3” would be best.
i haven’t purchase the exhaust past the 3” downpipes just yet, so I’m open to options for that. I don’t wanna do meth as I plan to drive this thing a lot around town. I would be ecstatic if I hit 800whp!
so I will prob hit the track once or twice a year when cars done. I would most likely have a ton of fun cruising with this thing and being on the highway. That’s mainly why I went twin turbo. Want the spool quick. After it’s all together and if I do hit 800ish hp then maybe I should make it auto? I’ve done some reading for that. I friend had a built th400 and that thing was INSTANT switching gears. I just don’t wanna take away from my highway fun if I went auto. Also I can install 3.69 gears that bolt into car.
Lots of negatives there.
Sounds like you're using the corvette regulator or the stock one. That will be your fueling bottleneck.
No meth injection might not hold you back on a lot on power, but it likely will with reliability. Being a street car has nothing to do with it. You can use straight windshield washer fluid and it be super simple to just top it off every few gas tank fillups.
Gen 3 rods can do 800 hp with the right tune, but on pump gas with no water/meth, it will be a struggle.
Mufflers and resonators and exhaust going out the back will cost you 30-60 horsepower depending on a few things.
4.10 gears will be impossible to get traction with. Even with 3.55 gears my Nova struggles, and with the 3.07s in the Corvette.
"Twins spool faster" is a combination of myth and misunderstanding.
Sounds like you're using the corvette regulator or the stock one. That will be your fueling bottleneck.
No meth injection might not hold you back on a lot on power, but it likely will with reliability. Being a street car has nothing to do with it. You can use straight windshield washer fluid and it be super simple to just top it off every few gas tank fillups.
Gen 3 rods can do 800 hp with the right tune, but on pump gas with no water/meth, it will be a struggle.
Mufflers and resonators and exhaust going out the back will cost you 30-60 horsepower depending on a few things.
4.10 gears will be impossible to get traction with. Even with 3.55 gears my Nova struggles, and with the 3.07s in the Corvette.
"Twins spool faster" is a combination of myth and misunderstanding.
Ok so this is the fuel setup before the rail... https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...SABEgJ43fD_BwE
it’s easy enough to change out cause I have my hardline returns still close by. You don’t think this is good? Just use an aftermarket regulator with regular fuel lines?
ive always though meth was a big headache? I’ve never personally used it before so obviously I could be mis informed. I will look into what’s involved to add meth for the car if it’s really as simple as filling a Rez once a week or whatever.
as for the exhaust, I def want to have a catback on it for regular driving. Would it Have a big impact in the tune with cutouts? Say I tune the car with the cutouts open after downpipes. Then just close them afterwards for normal driving, would that harm the motor being driven on full exhaust even though tune is for the cutouts open?
the gearing is going to kill me, I’ll try the 3.69s cause they bolt in but it’s quite a hastle to put another diff in the car. I’ll have to look into it. I know it’s possible to put another one I think that is around 3.3x. Gotta do some more research into that.
Chinese turbos.
Gearbox
Rear end, and 4.1 is a poor choice for almost any turbo car.
Static 58psi is a less ideal choice, but will ultimately depend on boost used.
And more often than not the weakest link can be the tuner ( and builder )
Chinese turbos.
Gearbox
rear end, and 4.1 is a poor choice for almost any turbo car.
Static 58psi is a less ideal choice, but will ultimately depend on boost used.
And more often than not the weakest link can be the tuner ( and builder )
I’ve seen afew builds with those turbos being ok for awhile. That’s why I went with them. However, I know they cheap and Chinese and may not last a day potentially lol. As long as they don’t take my motor out when they do go, I’m ok. The realization of the car almost being done and capable of that much power is actually stressing me out in a way, starting to think the car will be useless to drive cause not sure how I’m getting this power to stick.
i can change fuel regulator and add meth, put name brand turbos after I use car and get it driving, enjoy it at afew shows or whatever but idk if I’ll be able to get lower gears into this thing.
Not sure what ECU you have, but maybe 43 base on the fuel pressure, using a boost ref reg.
Depending on which rod you are resizing, might be better off just getting Scat budget rods, once
you figure in the machine work, etc. You will be balancing the engine anyway.
Maybe upgrade to 243 heads, depending on pistons, comp. you
want. The money train can go on and on, lol. Rods, then fuel system if it were me.
Not sure what ECU you have, but maybe 43 base on the fuel pressure, using a boost ref reg.
Depending on which rod you are resizing, might be better off just getting Scat budget rods, once
you figure in the machine work, etc. You will be balancing the engine anyway.
Maybe upgrade to 243 heads, depending on pistons, comp. you
want. The money train can go on and on, lol. Rods, then fuel system if it were me.
I’m leaving the engine itself alone. Don’t wanna open it unless really necessary. The motor is already installed with trans. Just got driveshaft an hour ago picked up. Any other stuff I am willing to replace if will help me make a difference.
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What is my weakest part? 
