Ceramic coat, wrap or both?
09-04-2019, 08:56 PM
#1
Ceramic coat, wrap or both? I’m pulling my turbo **** off my car probably this weekend. I gotta build another kit for a buddy and mock it up on my car. Fun right? Lol. I figure while it’s down I’ll go ahead and address the heat under the hood. So I was really wanting to do the cerakote stuff on the manifold and down pipe and my exhaust housing. Should I wrap the manifold too on top of the ceramic? I know I’m wrapping the down pipe for sure. And the crossover goes under the car so it’ll get some love too. Wouldn’t doing both be better? Or will that cause issues down the road? How would/have you done it?
Last edited by Kfxguy; 01-24-2020 at 03:02 PM.
09-05-2019, 09:49 AM
#3
What about coating the inside of the compressor housing? I'm definitely not sand blasting the inside tho. Do I really need to blast everything for the air cure cerakote to stick? what about scuffing it up? I may create a separate thread for these questions.
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09-07-2019, 09:57 AM
#11
U can coat and wrap. I wouldn’t coat the inside of the turbo. U don’t want to coat parts unless u want the heat to stay in, so compressor housing = no, center section = no. U can coat the inside of the exhaust housing but I wouldn’t, clearances are tight around the wheel so I did just the inlet and outlet (inside) on the exhaust housing. You want heat to escape through the compressor housing and center sections so u wouldn’t coat them to retain heat.
Creakote and all coatings it’s all About prep. Coating adhesion requires blasting. Creakote is very specific on blast media as well as course of media for the coating. 100 grit specifically. I was able to use 70grit aluminum oxide on stainless bc it’s a harder metal and the media breaks down as u use it. I’m sure scuffing could work but if it can fit in a cabinet I would just blast it. Or u can always do a blaster on a large tarp in your driveway etc. coating prep is key, and I can tell you that even spraying the coating on top of itself after it’s cured (touch ups etc) it will flake and peel right off. Hence why the prep and blasting is so important. Do it right, do it once and forget about it.
Also so creakote is a ceramic coating but it’s not as affective as say SWAIN tech or whatever that thick white coating is. That stuff only comes in white and goes on like bed liner like thickness and texture. Creakote has thermal properties but it’s more designed for toughness and the High heat for like barrels and guns etc. I like creakote and it does work and look good but I still got high underhood temps after coating. But I didn’t wrap on top of it. I feel like on your GTO u got a lot under the hood in a tiny space... $hit is gona heat soak no matter what u do so keep that in mind.
Creakote and all coatings it’s all About prep. Coating adhesion requires blasting. Creakote is very specific on blast media as well as course of media for the coating. 100 grit specifically. I was able to use 70grit aluminum oxide on stainless bc it’s a harder metal and the media breaks down as u use it. I’m sure scuffing could work but if it can fit in a cabinet I would just blast it. Or u can always do a blaster on a large tarp in your driveway etc. coating prep is key, and I can tell you that even spraying the coating on top of itself after it’s cured (touch ups etc) it will flake and peel right off. Hence why the prep and blasting is so important. Do it right, do it once and forget about it.
Also so creakote is a ceramic coating but it’s not as affective as say SWAIN tech or whatever that thick white coating is. That stuff only comes in white and goes on like bed liner like thickness and texture. Creakote has thermal properties but it’s more designed for toughness and the High heat for like barrels and guns etc. I like creakote and it does work and look good but I still got high underhood temps after coating. But I didn’t wrap on top of it. I feel like on your GTO u got a lot under the hood in a tiny space... $hit is gona heat soak no matter what u do so keep that in mind.
09-07-2019, 01:57 PM
#12
U can coat and wrap. I wouldn’t coat the inside of the turbo. U don’t want to coat parts unless u want the heat to stay in, so compressor housing = no, center section = no. U can coat the inside of the exhaust housing but I wouldn’t, clearances are tight around the wheel so I did just the inlet and outlet (inside) on the exhaust housing. You want heat to escape through the compressor housing and center sections so u wouldn’t coat them to retain heat.
Creakote and all coatings it’s all About prep. Coating adhesion requires blasting. Creakote is very specific on blast media as well as course of media for the coating. 100 grit specifically. I was able to use 70grit aluminum oxide on stainless bc it’s a harder metal and the media breaks down as u use it. I’m sure scuffing could work but if it can fit in a cabinet I would just blast it. Or u can always do a blaster on a large tarp in your driveway etc. coating prep is key, and I can tell you that even spraying the coating on top of itself after it’s cured (touch ups etc) it will flake and peel right off. Hence why the prep and blasting is so important. Do it right, do it once and forget about it.
Also so creakote is a ceramic coating but it’s not as affective as say SWAIN tech or whatever that thick white coating is. That stuff only comes in white and goes on like bed liner like thickness and texture. Creakote has thermal properties but it’s more designed for toughness and the High heat for like barrels and guns etc. I like creakote and it does work and look good but I still got high underhood temps after coating. But I didn’t wrap on top of it. I feel like on your GTO u got a lot under the hood in a tiny space... $hit is gona heat soak no matter what u do so keep that in mind.
Creakote and all coatings it’s all About prep. Coating adhesion requires blasting. Creakote is very specific on blast media as well as course of media for the coating. 100 grit specifically. I was able to use 70grit aluminum oxide on stainless bc it’s a harder metal and the media breaks down as u use it. I’m sure scuffing could work but if it can fit in a cabinet I would just blast it. Or u can always do a blaster on a large tarp in your driveway etc. coating prep is key, and I can tell you that even spraying the coating on top of itself after it’s cured (touch ups etc) it will flake and peel right off. Hence why the prep and blasting is so important. Do it right, do it once and forget about it.
Also so creakote is a ceramic coating but it’s not as affective as say SWAIN tech or whatever that thick white coating is. That stuff only comes in white and goes on like bed liner like thickness and texture. Creakote has thermal properties but it’s more designed for toughness and the High heat for like barrels and guns etc. I like creakote and it does work and look good but I still got high underhood temps after coating. But I didn’t wrap on top of it. I feel like on your GTO u got a lot under the hood in a tiny space... $hit is gona heat soak no matter what u do so keep that in mind.
Thanks a bunch for the info. I’ll refrain from costing the compressor housing. But my train of thought on that is if I coated inside and out that it would deter heat from soaking into the aluminum. I think the wrap is going to help greatly with underhood temps. Surprisingly I haven’t melted anything and temps stay in check. And I live in hot Louisiana. I did pay attention to detail when building this stuff and went out of the way to do things the smart way even if it were harder or cost more.