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Just a random question if anyone here is running this set up. I’m about to drop a 5.3 into my 95 fbody. I’m doing twin turbos no ac trying to get by with stock k member for now. Has anyone used the up forward facing long tube style header 1-3/4/1-7/8 primaries to 3” collect and then the 90* vband t4/t3 flanges? Great deals on eBay for the headers even used ones. Trying to avoid the truck manifold and stock k member issue if I can run the accessory drive For these headers. I measures the shock tower supports and it’s 28” between them. So does anyone have measurements on how wide the headers are on the engine mounted facing forward? No company has info and they use them in other builds. Just curios if they would fit my little 95 fbody engine bay? Any info or pictures of it done will help I can’t really find any on the 4th gens lots of 3rd gens though. Thanks guys
Just a random question if anyone here is running this set up. I’m about to drop a 5.3 into my 95 fbody. I’m doing twin turbos no ac trying to get by with stock k member for now. Has anyone used the up forward facing long tube style header 1-3/4/1-7/8 primaries to 3” collect and then the 90* vband t4/t3 flanges? Great deals on eBay for the headers even used ones. Trying to avoid the truck manifold and stock k member issue if I can run the accessory drive For these headers. I measures the shock tower supports and it’s 28” between them. So does anyone have measurements on how wide the headers are on the engine mounted facing forward? No company has info and they use them in other builds. Just curios if they would fit my little 95 fbody engine bay? Any info or pictures of it done will help I can’t really find any on the 4th gens lots of 3rd gens though. Thanks guys
Most if not all those generic forward facing ls headers will hit the shock towers in the 4th Gen (that’s why your not finding 4th gen info).
what manifold issues with the stock k member are you referring too? I build my first turbo ls car in 2007 when I was 19 and I had zero issues with the stock truck manifolds turned forward. I did relocate the alt to the pass top side of the motor. It was a 96 Lt1 car with a 5.3 swapped in it
my current car has a tubular k member and a manual pinto rack so using it as a example won’t work. But I used the truck manifolds has on it as well and everything fit great (I did cut the manifold flanges off and welded v bands on)
Well that’s the issues I’m referring to. Having to cut the flanges off for v bands or cutting the stud I heard hits somewhere on the k member I haven’t dug far enough in it to double check. I have the alt on passenger side and power steering is stock location upper driver side. I guess I’ll run with these truck headers for now and just cross that bridge when I get there I guess. Thanks for your help. Any pics of your setup? But remember I’m doing twin turbos..
Here is pictures of the one I did when I was 18-19 years old. Stock truck manifolds flipped with no modifications. I used the factory flanges on the mani’s and everything. New car I have I changed everything so it might not be as helpful
Sweet thanks. Nice setup. That’s odd every post I looked up said the manifolds hit or they cut the stud or k member. Maybe every cam is different idk but that gives me hope for a single turbo. Now if only people used twin turbos with k member? But I guess I’ll have to dive in myself since there’s no info
Sweet thanks. Nice setup. That’s odd every post I looked up said the manifolds hit or they cut the stud or k member. Maybe every cam is different idk but that gives me hope for a single turbo. Now if only people used twin turbos with k member? But I guess I’ll have to dive in myself since there’s no info
I should mention I built my own motor mounts on the Lt1 kmember. They were super slick and gave gobs of room for a downpipe in comparison to stock junk. So that very well could have played into that.
Originally Posted by chevykev
And I assume you notched the center support for the radiator there?
Yeah on that car I cut the entire thing out and welded in some rectangular stock and strapped the radiator to it. I didn’t do anything on the bottom.
Current car I cut it all out. Top and bottom. Then I got creative and made little mounts for the bottom to sit in.. bent round stock on the engine side to support the radiator... then the headlight bracket sandwiches it in
Him yea that would definitely not really help because not only did you make your own mounts(which I don’t plan on doing unless you have the old ones or can make me some) you also used the stock lt1 k member and that’s completely different than the ls1 k member I’m swapping to. I think that’s the easier route.
Him yea that would definitely not really help because not only did you make your own mounts(which I don’t plan on doing unless you have the old ones or can make me some) you also used the stock lt1 k member and that’s completely different than the ls1 k member I’m swapping to. I think that’s the easier route.
Well I placed it pretty much 99.9% where the factory mounts place it. It just gave more clearance for a downpipe.
But instead of those big ole gawdy clam shell mounts.. I bought some DOM tubing from thorbros (aka suicide doors) and some standard 4 link bushings from them as well. I made two plates that bolted to the motor.. then welded a piece of tube to them with the 4 link bushing on the end of the tube. On the k member I welded two tabs with holes drilled in them. Then the bolts went through the tab, through 4 link bushing, and through the second tab.
Sounds daunting but hear me out. I was 19 with very little to no fabbing experience when I built this car. I did the motor mounts, the tranny k member (cuz I ordered the wrong one), and the turbo kit. I also wired and put a 2 bar custom operating system on the pcm, as well as tuned the car. Zero experience.
building the mounts took 3-4 hours.. cost less than $100 (at the time).,. I didn’t have to buy a k member or deal with swapping the Kmember. My motor mount bushing were closer to a poly mount and far cheaper/easier to replace then the factory mounts. Not typical but You should consider it as a option. Unfortunately this is the only picture of the mounts I have. This plate bolted to the block. On the end of that bar was the round tube with the bushing in it.
I only have a little harbor freight 120v flux welder. I use it to tack in place and then I guess I can have someone weld it but if I do that might as well just buy a k member. They’re like 100-200 and then some motor mounts and he done. The lt1 k member is out right now and I may have found a full front ls1 with steering and shocks for 200$ shipped to California from Florida. I’m just looking for some small thin motor mounts that will possibly allow me to squeeze 3” Dow pipe through on each side. I like the dom tubing idea and that’s what I’m leaning toward in motor mounts. The clam shells aren’t going to fly and they’re ugly. I’d like to find some mounts that also won’t burn up from the downpipe even though they’ll be wrapped. You had to run a different oil pan didn’t you? Or did stock fbody pan or truck pan fit?
I only have a little harbor freight 120v flux welder. I use it to tack in place and then I guess I can have someone weld it but if I do that might as well just buy a k member. They’re like 100-200 and then some motor mounts and he done. The lt1 k member is out right now and I may have found a full front ls1 with steering and shocks for 200$ shipped to California from Florida. I’m just looking for some small thin motor mounts that will possibly allow me to squeeze 3” Dow pipe through on each side. I like the dom tubing idea and that’s what I’m leaning toward in motor mounts. The clam shells aren’t going to fly and they’re ugly. I’d like to find some mounts that also won’t burn up from the downpipe even though they’ll be wrapped. You had to run a different oil pan didn’t you? Or did stock fbody pan or truck pan fit?
Stock fbody pan fit. Stock truck pan would also fit but it would hang wayyy too low. You need the ls1 steering rack as well. The Lt1 rack is too narrow. But it bolts right to the Lt1 member.
I don’t know how well the harborfreight welder works... but I have a trailer that I welded the from hitch assembly in with the cheapest Lincoln 120v flux core made. That trailer goes through way more abuse than your motor mounts will. I’ll bet a person could build mounts that would hold fine with a basic flux core. Just practice
Ok well you’re giving me a little hope. Do how did you make these motor mounts exactly? How did you get the block to sit the same and everything fit? How did you know the motor mounts would work and not make the engine sit to high? I’ll pay you to make me some lol
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Up forward facing headers 
