You may think I知 a dummy
LOL...I don't believe I've posted in one of your threads in a long time. Some times things get taken the wrong way on the internet or just joking around rubs someone the wrong way when they are having a bad day then it escalates. I've got zero issue with you. I really truly wish you the best in your build even though we disagree a lot.
My top end is stock and I mean untouched heads other than a BTR spring kit. I'm really curious about how it will work out. I'm confident it will work ok, but if it doesn't I'll absolutely change the top end or what ever it takes to make the combo perform.
I left the cam up to them and I feel good about it. I told them the combo and goals in detail and the first recommendation is what we went with. I don't mind and actually love a lopey idle if it backs it up with performance in the rpm range desired. If I can make 800 rwhp through the auto without stupid high iat's then I'll be feeling pretty good about the combo. I give zero f***s about gas mileage or stealth although my magnaflow exhaust isn't really very loud and I have the helical cut gears so I hear more of the motor and less of the blower.
My top end is stock and I mean untouched heads other than a BTR spring kit. I'm really curious about how it will work out. I'm confident it will work ok, but if it doesn't I'll absolutely change the top end or what ever it takes to make the combo perform.
I left the cam up to them and I feel good about it. I told them the combo and goals in detail and the first recommendation is what we went with. I don't mind and actually love a lopey idle if it backs it up with performance in the rpm range desired. If I can make 800 rwhp through the auto without stupid high iat's then I'll be feeling pretty good about the combo. I give zero f***s about gas mileage or stealth although my magnaflow exhaust isn't really very loud and I have the helical cut gears so I hear more of the motor and less of the blower.
if your heads are unported I壇 definitely send them to be cnc ported. The gains will be doubled on a boosted motor. So say you gain 40rwhp na, at 15psi that would be about 80. My buddy gained over 40rwhp on his gto by having his 243痴 ported and bigger valves. I壇 definitely do that no doubt....just think about it before putting it in.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
no worries. And I may have you mixed up with another member.
if your heads are unported I壇 definitely send them to be cnc ported. The gains will be doubled on a boosted motor. So say you gain 40rwhp na, at 15psi that would be about 80. My buddy gained over 40rwhp on his gto by having his 243痴 ported and bigger valves. I壇 definitely do that no doubt....just think about it before putting it in.
if your heads are unported I壇 definitely send them to be cnc ported. The gains will be doubled on a boosted motor. So say you gain 40rwhp na, at 15psi that would be about 80. My buddy gained over 40rwhp on his gto by having his 243痴 ported and bigger valves. I壇 definitely do that no doubt....just think about it before putting it in.
I definitely recommend the helical cut gears. You mostly hear the blow off valve more than the blower itself with my setup. I have the open race valve so it's loud. It's personal taste, but I like hearing the blow off valve and the exhaust more than the blower.
My thinking was if I had the heads ported and larger valves installed that I wouldn't be much under the expense of some trick flow as cast heads and probably more than factory ls3 heads with just a spring kit installed. Those were the other two options I considered. I had the budget for heads and intake, but I've done enough of these to know that they always go over budget. I thought on a boosted motor not even maxing the blower that if I was going to cut costs some where it would be on the top end.
My thinking was if I had the heads ported and larger valves installed that I wouldn't be much under the expense of some trick flow as cast heads and probably more than factory ls3 heads with just a spring kit installed. Those were the other two options I considered. I had the budget for heads and intake, but I've done enough of these to know that they always go over budget. I thought on a boosted motor not even maxing the blower that if I was going to cut costs some where it would be on the top end.
mid keep the stock intake and just have the heads ported with bigger valves. At the very very least, ported. At least if you do that you won稚 be second guessing yourself (which I always do) after getting it together. I give good advice but I can稚 seem to follow my own advice (it痴 usually a $$ issue) and it usually ends up costing me more that it would have, had I just did it the way I should have originally. That痴 why I知 going through the torture I am right now. Cuz I知 cheap and hard headed.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
mid keep the stock intake and just have the heads ported with bigger valves. At the very very least, ported. At least if you do that you won稚 be second guessing yourself (which I always do) after getting it together. I give good advice but I can稚 seem to follow my own advice (it痴 usually a $$ issue) and it usually ends up costing me more that it would have, had I just did it the way I should have originally. That痴 why I知 going through the torture I am right now. Cuz I知 cheap and hard headed.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
When it was originally released and at the time I purchased mine they claimed 1000 hp. I suppose later on when guys like detox made over 900 rwhp and coyote mustangs made over 1000 rwhp they re-evaluated it and realized it made more. It's basically capable of the peak numbers of an F1a, but with a different step up ratio it's going to take a different pulley combo and probably make less down low which at this power range is great for a street car.
https://www.procharger.com/sites/def...cs_12-2019.pdf
https://www.procharger.com/sites/def...cs_12-2019.pdf
Dynos read different, roller dynos read different, all dynos read different. And that's before the dyno operator gets involved.
And any potential airflow number that might allow an estimated power number ( however it is measured or guessed )...doesnt mean the build, the tuning, the fuel used on that build will allow it either.
So the numbers dont matter...but the D1 has always been a proven solid performer. That does matter.
Although for actual dyno numbers on various setups, RH has been doing a load of good videos on youtube lately. Definitely worth a watch
For 500 you can get a clean up and port job fr multiple vendors. Cheap when your goal is 800whp, but I respect having to limit the budget somewhere. You could always do it later, just gotta tear it apart at that point to do it.
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Using the 241 heads and ls6 intake will be fine i would not bother porting the heads youd be better to save that money for a set of trick flows down the road. Thats a nice setup your buddy has looks like f2 f3 charger iv seen that vette at eddyville pretty sweet ride.
I壇 just sell the top end parts and grab some stock square port head. Clean them up a bit and make more power at lower boost. Adding boost pressure on a belt setup also taxes the belt drive more imho.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
I was getting anxiety about this thing going through shipping, but I知 very happy with how it was packaged/shipped. They seem to have set me up for success with all the block plugs and barbell already installed and the conversion kit for my gen 3 ecu.
Im going to use my gen 3 knock sensors on the side of the block. I have extra holes to thread them right in. Do you think that痴 a good idea or would I have better results drilling and tapping the correct location on the lower rear area of the block where the gen 4 sensors go?
Im going to use my gen 3 knock sensors on the side of the block. I have extra holes to thread them right in. Do you think that痴 a good idea or would I have better results drilling and tapping the correct location on the lower rear area of the block where the gen 4 sensors go?
We drilled and tapped the bosses on the side of the Gen 4 block that is usually suggested. Not saying your extra holes that already exist wouldn't work, but I don't know how it would impact the sensors ability to detect real knock and prevent false knock.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
ya that痴 what I知 afraid of. I think I値l drill and tap them now since it痴 easier outside the car then decide where to put them when it痴 in the car. Off the top of my head I知 not sure if there will be an issue with the starter in the way on the passenger side. Drivers side shouldn稚 be an issue at all.
Very cool motor build! I'm very curious what you will make with the stock 241 heads. It would also be super cool if you could do one run on the dyno without boost to see what it would run. I've seen so many threads where people are basically asking what an LS3 would do with cathedral ports on it. I'm in the for the results!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Very cool motor build! I'm very curious what you will make with the stock 241 heads. It would also be super cool if you could do one run on the dyno without boost to see what it would run. I've seen so many threads where people are basically asking what an LS3 would do with cathedral ports on it. I'm in the for the results!
I can understand that, dyno sessions aren't cheap. I wasn't sure if you could quickly pop off a belt and throw on a cone filter or something. It would be a really good back to back test.