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Old 02-07-2020 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
LOL...I don't believe I've posted in one of your threads in a long time. Some times things get taken the wrong way on the internet or just joking around rubs someone the wrong way when they are having a bad day then it escalates. I've got zero issue with you. I really truly wish you the best in your build even though we disagree a lot.

My top end is stock and I mean untouched heads other than a BTR spring kit. I'm really curious about how it will work out. I'm confident it will work ok, but if it doesn't I'll absolutely change the top end or what ever it takes to make the combo perform.

I left the cam up to them and I feel good about it. I told them the combo and goals in detail and the first recommendation is what we went with. I don't mind and actually love a lopey idle if it backs it up with performance in the rpm range desired. If I can make 800 rwhp through the auto without stupid high iat's then I'll be feeling pretty good about the combo. I give zero f***s about gas mileage or stealth although my magnaflow exhaust isn't really very loud and I have the helical cut gears so I hear more of the motor and less of the blower.
no worries. And I may have you mixed up with another member.

if your heads are unported I’d definitely send them to be cnc ported. The gains will be doubled on a boosted motor. So say you gain 40rwhp na, at 15psi that would be about 80. My buddy gained over 40rwhp on his gto by having his 243’s ported and bigger valves. I’d definitely do that no doubt....just think about it before putting it in.
Old 02-07-2020 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by quiet_storm98
How quiet is it with the helical cut gears? If I ever end up actually getting a procharger for my car I plan on doing the helical gearset as well.
I definitely recommend the helical cut gears. You mostly hear the blow off valve more than the blower itself with my setup. I have the open race valve so it's loud. It's personal taste, but I like hearing the blow off valve and the exhaust more than the blower.
Originally Posted by Kfxguy
no worries. And I may have you mixed up with another member.

if your heads are unported I’d definitely send them to be cnc ported. The gains will be doubled on a boosted motor. So say you gain 40rwhp na, at 15psi that would be about 80. My buddy gained over 40rwhp on his gto by having his 243’s ported and bigger valves. I’d definitely do that no doubt....just think about it before putting it in.
My thinking was if I had the heads ported and larger valves installed that I wouldn't be much under the expense of some trick flow as cast heads and probably more than factory ls3 heads with just a spring kit installed. Those were the other two options I considered. I had the budget for heads and intake, but I've done enough of these to know that they always go over budget. I thought on a boosted motor not even maxing the blower that if I was going to cut costs some where it would be on the top end.
Old 02-07-2020 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
I definitely recommend the helical cut gears. You mostly hear the blow off valve more than the blower itself with my setup. I have the open race valve so it's loud. It's personal taste, but I like hearing the blow off valve and the exhaust more than the blower.


My thinking was if I had the heads ported and larger valves installed that I wouldn't be much under the expense of some trick flow as cast heads and probably more than factory ls3 heads with just a spring kit installed. Those were the other two options I considered. I had the budget for heads and intake, but I've done enough of these to know that they always go over budget. I thought on a boosted motor not even maxing the blower that if I was going to cut costs some where it would be on the top end.

mid keep the stock intake and just have the heads ported with bigger valves. At the very very least, ported. At least if you do that you won’t be second guessing yourself (which I always do) after getting it together. I give good advice but I can’t seem to follow my own advice (it’s usually a $$ issue) and it usually ends up costing me more that it would have, had I just did it the way I should have originally. That’s why I’m going through the torture I am right now. Cuz I’m cheap and hard headed.
Old 02-07-2020 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
mid keep the stock intake and just have the heads ported with bigger valves. At the very very least, ported. At least if you do that you won’t be second guessing yourself (which I always do) after getting it together. I give good advice but I can’t seem to follow my own advice (it’s usually a $$ issue) and it usually ends up costing me more that it would have, had I just did it the way I should have originally. That’s why I’m going through the torture I am right now. Cuz I’m cheap and hard headed.
I'm not getting the heads ported. I feel like I can make my power goals with 241 heads even if it takes a few more psi to do it. I'm on ethanol and willing to add water/meth if I need to due to IAT's. I don't expect to need it though.
Old 02-07-2020 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
When it was originally released and at the time I purchased mine they claimed 1000 hp. I suppose later on when guys like detox made over 900 rwhp and coyote mustangs made over 1000 rwhp they re-evaluated it and realized it made more. It's basically capable of the peak numbers of an F1a, but with a different step up ratio it's going to take a different pulley combo and probably make less down low which at this power range is great for a street car.
https://www.procharger.com/sites/def...cs_12-2019.pdf
Problem with numbers...is most are bullshit.

Dynos read different, roller dynos read different, all dynos read different. And that's before the dyno operator gets involved.

And any potential airflow number that might allow an estimated power number ( however it is measured or guessed )...doesnt mean the build, the tuning, the fuel used on that build will allow it either.

So the numbers dont matter...but the D1 has always been a proven solid performer. That does matter.

Although for actual dyno numbers on various setups, RH has been doing a load of good videos on youtube lately. Definitely worth a watch
Old 02-07-2020 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
I'm not getting the heads ported. I feel like I can make my power goals with 241 heads even if it takes a few more psi to do it. I'm on ethanol and willing to add water/meth if I need to due to IAT's. I don't expect to need it though.

ok...
Old 02-07-2020 | 04:02 PM
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Simple Vortech 5.3. Doesnt seem like a big unit, so probably a D1 would be very comparable or maybe better

Old 02-07-2020 | 04:45 PM
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For 500 you can get a clean up and port job fr multiple vendors. Cheap when your goal is 800whp, but I respect having to limit the budget somewhere. You could always do it later, just gotta tear it apart at that point to do it.
Old 02-08-2020 | 08:46 AM
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Using the 241 heads and ls6 intake will be fine i would not bother porting the heads youd be better to save that money for a set of trick flows down the road. Thats a nice setup your buddy has looks like f2 f3 charger iv seen that vette at eddyville pretty sweet ride.
Old 02-08-2020 | 12:06 PM
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I’d just sell the top end parts and grab some stock square port head. Clean them up a bit and make more power at lower boost. Adding boost pressure on a belt setup also taxes the belt drive more imho.
Old 02-08-2020 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ovaboost
Using the 241 heads and ls6 intake will be fine i would not bother porting the heads youd be better to save that money for a set of trick flows down the road. Thats a nice setup your buddy has looks like f2 f3 charger iv seen that vette at eddyville pretty sweet ride.
Yes it's pretty amazing had to step up to an f3-112 because of how fast no prep drag radial cars are now.

Originally Posted by slowride
I’d just sell the top end parts and grab some stock square port head. Clean them up a bit and make more power at lower boost. Adding boost pressure on a belt setup also taxes the belt drive more imho.
I didn't have belt slip issues before and I'll be starting with the same blower pulley as before just going from a 7.65" to an 8.25" crank pulley. I'll be going from about 55,000 to 59,000 rpm blower speed to start with. Same top end with 31 more cubic inches and going from a 228r to a 232/248 blower cam so I may still see about the same boost psi as I was before.
Old 03-05-2020 | 07:18 PM
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Got the short block today and made an unboxing video...

Old 03-06-2020 | 07:46 AM
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Looks purty!
Old 03-06-2020 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Looks purty!
I was getting anxiety about this thing going through shipping, but I’m very happy with how it was packaged/shipped. They seem to have set me up for success with all the block plugs and barbell already installed and the conversion kit for my gen 3 ecu.

Im going to use my gen 3 knock sensors on the side of the block. I have extra holes to thread them right in. Do you think that’s a good idea or would I have better results drilling and tapping the correct location on the lower rear area of the block where the gen 4 sensors go?
Old 03-06-2020 | 09:51 AM
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We drilled and tapped the bosses on the side of the Gen 4 block that is usually suggested. Not saying your extra holes that already exist wouldn't work, but I don't know how it would impact the sensors ability to detect real knock and prevent false knock.
Old 03-06-2020 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
We drilled and tapped the bosses on the side of the Gen 4 block that is usually suggested. Not saying your extra holes that already exist wouldn't work, but I don't know how it would impact the sensors ability to detect real knock and prevent false knock.
ya that’s what I’m afraid of. I think I’ll drill and tap them now since it’s easier outside the car then decide where to put them when it’s in the car. Off the top of my head I’m not sure if there will be an issue with the starter in the way on the passenger side. Drivers side shouldn’t be an issue at all.
Old 03-06-2020 | 10:43 AM
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Yup makes sense.
Old 03-09-2020 | 03:52 PM
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Very cool motor build! I'm very curious what you will make with the stock 241 heads. It would also be super cool if you could do one run on the dyno without boost to see what it would run. I've seen so many threads where people are basically asking what an LS3 would do with cathedral ports on it. I'm in the for the results!
Old 03-09-2020 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a
Very cool motor build! I'm very curious what you will make with the stock 241 heads. It would also be super cool if you could do one run on the dyno without boost to see what it would run. I've seen so many threads where people are basically asking what an LS3 would do with cathedral ports on it. I'm in the for the results!
Thank you. I've made some good progress. I will tune it and break it in on the street then try to get to a dyno just to see what it does and make sure it's making the expected power. There will not be any NA runs unless the belt breaks or something...LOL. I'll be starting with a 8.25 crank pulley and a 3.9 blower pulley shifting at 6800 rpm. I'm curious to see what boost level and power is out of it.

Old 03-10-2020 | 11:14 AM
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I can understand that, dyno sessions aren't cheap. I wasn't sure if you could quickly pop off a belt and throw on a cone filter or something. It would be a really good back to back test.


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