I run TR7ix in my 6th gen. 9psi on E85 with a lot more compression. Completely different setup obviously but figured I would share anyway. Seems to be the plug choice for most gen 5 engines running less then 15psi. I would think with your low compression the TR7ix would be fine even on 93...especially when you put the meth kit on.

 

Shoot on good E85 you can practically run a glow plug at low boost

 

I agree. I do like a safety margin. But in this case a compromise has to be made. Do I set the car up for the 98% of how it’s used or the 2%? Well you know what I chose, and honestly after breaking the first motor, pulling motors twice, I realized it’s not a big deal anyways. I’m gonna drive a bit more and see if it pulls spark when it warms up.

 

1 of those scenarios results in worse gas mileage and the other results in a blown motor lol. Its takes alot of bad gas mileage to equal a new motor. But if pulling a motor aint no big thing now, have at it. Hell you probably could drive around in full time open loop now and it'd run just fine and screw fuel trims. I'm just waiting for the thread months from now where you were at the track and so close to a XX@XXX and turned it up with the 6's still in it and melted something. But like I said, when you get that meth on your margin gets much wider.

 

I still have 7’s in it. Just iridium with a mildly projected tip. Think I’m gonna upgrade my intercooler and piping here soon. I have 2.5” piping and a 20” wide core by 8” tall, 3.5” thick. Probably could be better. Was good for my original goal (funny how that always changes) but not so much where I’m headed now.

and if I break it at the track, I will post a thread making fun of myself.

 

Btw, the reason I went iridium is because I had to tighten the gap to .025 on the regular plugs. The iridium is at .030. When I tightened the gap up, I did notice a worse idle. You wouldn’t think a measly .005 would make a difference but it did. Supposedly the iridium plugs are more efficient and you can run a wider gap. I should have just tried opening the gap back up on the tr7’s and adding some dwell to the coils. I still ended up adding dwell after my initial test drive. I want to open the gap up to .035 with increased dwell and see what the effects are.

 

ohhhh, I thought you dropped to a 6 based on your other posts. I'd be much more comfortable then. I don't think you'll blow anything now, especially when that meth kit goes on. I should have made a thread on my install with all the failsafes I did. Hope you can incorporate some of them.

 

nah it’s ok. Sometimes my posts are confusing (sometimes I confuse myself lololololol) and ramble on. I think it would have pulled a degree like it did last night even with the original plugs. I added some timing in the exact area where it pulled timing. Not a coincidence I’d think. I was trying to add a little more timing past 5600 and it didn’t like it. But heck, 14 degrees at 15psi on pump is pretty good compared to the other motor. I took someone for a ride last night that hasn’t rode in it since last motor, he said it’s a good bit faster. FWIW lol


im gonna break some drivetrain parts soon I can feel it.

 

long as the 4L60E stays alive for the h8r's I'm happy

 

man this thing has been hanging in there. I’m pretty impressed to be honest.

this is my tq management table. What you think?

 

I think I can't see crap cause work PC lol. I'll take a look a bit later and reply.

 

aight.


just went for a drive. Idles at 1” -2” higher vacuum. It most DEFINITELY idles better. It used to have a slight buck in overdrive locked up at low speeds around 1100-1200rpm. No buck anymore. Just feels smoother and holds my cruise speed easier at a higher mpg on my display. I’ll take it. Now I’m starting to get somewhere with the economy part.

you gonna think I’m crazy but I’ve always toyed with the idea of putting a 6l80 or 90 in this car. If the terminator x would control that, I think I’d have to end up doing it. I basically want newer stuff in this older car. It would be cool to mount the holley screen under my radio and make it look factory. Or even remove the factory gauges and put the big screen, but $1800 for a screen is definitely out the question unless I win the lottery lol.

 

Back to basics on the idle control/AFR question... What injectors and data are you using? Are you 100% the data is correct for your hardware? Have you had all 8 injectors flow check? At idle pulses, not just static flow?

High flow injectors are notoriously bad at small pulsewidths. What you're seeing may be what some people dismiss as "no big deal" or "I'll tune around it" injector data mismatches that is manifesting in poor fuel mass control at idle. YMMV...

 

Br7ef gapped at 0.022 and cam has 8 degrees of overlap. No issues at all.

 

Thats not near as conservative as mine was. Shifting is such as quick thing that pulling a bunch of timing only during the shifts doesn't really impact E.T. unless you're a pro bracket racer where a couple hundredths matter. I think there's also a table that lets you adjust how quick or long it pulls the timing too. I had mine at like 20-30% for 1/2 and 2/3 at high throttle and like 50% for 3/4 because I don't want to shift into 4th at WOT but I'd it did it's yank a ton of power. Remember I was on a stock 4L60E though.

 

Everything is zero's for me LOL

 

Bone stock 4L60E? Rev limit?

 

Of course not...lol. My shift point is only 6800 rpm and 7000 rpm rev limit. I have 2 degrees less timing at 6800 rpm than I do at 6400 rpm and dropping even further at 7200 rpm although I never hit there. If the trans down shifts on it's own it's super easy to accidentally get on the limiter due to tire spin. It seems to help manage it to keep it off the limiter.

 

60lb dekas. My buddy who is a tuner had the injector data (which he’s used with no problems) and sent it to me. Have not had them flow checked.

backstory: back when I put the turbo on, I had stock injectors right at first. Stayed out of boost of course and didn’t change or gap plugs at the time. Larger cam back then (227/234 vs 222/233) and when I swapped injectors, loaded the data and cranked it, it idled noticeably better with the dekas. I know you guys are adamant it’s a tune issue, but I assure you it’s not. The one change I made, that I didn’t like and had no choice in the matter was when I had to tighten the plug gap. I clearly remember it idling like **** and I had to tweak it to get it to be more satisfactory. That was about a year and a half ago. I’ve learned loads since then. Keep in mind my idle is 625rpm too. But really this isn’t just about the idle. If you don’t believe the plugs made a difference then I pulled up a log from last week so you can see the difference. I didn’t chance fueling. Just plugs.

 

We believe the plugs made a difference. What most are saying is they were a band aid while if the tune was good plugs like br7ef even with small gaps will idle just fine.