When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey all, my previous turbo scavenge pump setup was working fine but ever since I installed this new turbo I cannot stop the oil burning. Once all the oil has burned off from the housing, after I rev it and rpms drop back to idle it smokes again. I tried vented and not vented. My final solution is to use a vented tank. At the moment it's straight from the turbo to pump, no tank. Is there anybody willing to fab one up for me? I will obviously pay for your time, materials, and shipping. Thank you.
Thanks for the reply. That's a good idea with the copper soldering but I'm not sure if I'd be able to find a copper turbo drain flange. My welder moved out of town so unfortunately I'm not able to get this made locally which is why I asked here
Use a standard threaded 3/4 drain flange. Copper fittings will screw right in. I've done it a million times. Solder holds up to oil temps no problem. No welding required. buy a propane torch for a few bucks and some solder. The larger say 1.5" or 2" copper pipe and end caps can be found on ebay. $5 an inch for 2" tubing. and 2" end caps are about $8 each
Use a standard threaded 3/4 drain flange. Copper fittings will screw right in. I've done it a million times. Solder holds up to oil temps no problem. No welding required. buy a propane torch for a few bucks and some solder. The larger say 1.5" or 2" copper pipe and end caps can be found on ebay.
The picture helped a lot, thanks. What about AN fittings? Would aluminum stick to the copper? Possibly they make copper JIC fittings with the 37 degree flare that might work?
AN fittings are usually pretty restrictive compared to the ID of the copper. Generally a poor choice for drains.(could be part of your problem as is)
Shouldn't ever be pressure in a drain, no need for high pressure lines. Large ID tubing and hose is better. I'd flare the ends and slip a 3/4 hose over it where needed with clamps. If you already have AN fitings, might look in to AN to barb type adapters.
AN fittings are usually pretty restrictive compared to the ID of the copper. Generally a poor choice for drains.(could be part of your problem as is)
Shouldn't ever be pressure in a drain, no need for high pressure lines. Large ID tubing and hose is better. I'd flare the ends and slip a 3/4 hose over it where needed with clamps. If you already have AN fitings, might look in to AN to barb type adapters.
What turbo? what size drains do you have now?
Ebay turbo, 12AN viton hose drain on turbo side with 5/8" ID high temp hose on pump return side. I have a T fitting on the turbo side with a 10AN vent going up into my engine bay. I have a 45 degree fitting coming off the turbo
Okay so I ordered:
5/8" Hose Barb to 3/4" Male Pipe (for vent hose)
3/4" JIC 3/4" NPT (To connect from tank to scavenge pump)
Square Brass Tube 1/4" x 12" (To make the tank)
1/2 in. Copper Pressure Cup x MIP Male Adapter Fitting (To connect from drain flange to pipe)
Brass Pipe Fitting, Class 125, Coupling, 3/4" NPT Female (To connect to tank and then thread in the 3/4 JIC fitting)
The one thing I am left confused with is how will I thread on the tank to the flange that isn't an NPT fitting? I feel like trying to tighten the tank to a NPT flange would be quite difficult given how tight of a spot it is in. Is there some sort of compression fitting or flare fitting that I can use so it's sort of like a swivel type fitting?
you likely want a low pressure check valve on teh supply line and no restriction. Thats a much better method IMO.
you could use a oil pan fitting with an o ring? The sandwich kind. or a 3/4 bulkhead fitting? It won't be under pressure so it should be fine.
I think I may have figured out the swivel fitting situation with compression fittings, will see when it gets here.
I purchased a check valve with a 1psi cracking pressure which was the lowest I could find, however the issue is my problem doesn't exist on the pump outlet side. The only place there should be pressure that would allow the check valve to open is on the pump outlet side. The issue, I believe, exists on the pump inlet side where there's a tiny uphill path to the scavenge pump and I can't mount the pump any lower than it is now. I'm afraid with a vent there isn't enough/any vacuum to pull fluid through the check valve
What generally happens in my experience (and this may not apply to you) Is the pump isn't wired to continue running when the car is shut off. Also w/ no check valve on the feed line, it continues to drain into the turbo when the car is shut off. So when it's parked, oil backs up in the drains/turbo and seeps past the ring on the exh shaft and makes a smoky mess on startup. A check valve and a turbo timer on the pump alone sometimes cures this issue. I've seen a few need a sump or stand pipe as u mention. Good luck!
Hey all, my previous turbo scavenge pump setup was working fine but ever since I installed this new turbo I cannot stop the oil burning. Once all the oil has burned off from the housing, after I rev it and rpms drop back to idle it smokes again. I tried vented and not vented. My final solution is to use a vented tank. At the moment it's straight from the turbo to pump, no tank. Is there anybody willing to fab one up for me? I will obviously pay for your time, materials, and shipping. Thank you.
Your post implies you changed the scavenge setup ? So did just the turbo change, or turbo and pump etc ?
What pump are you using ? And what turbo was it before, and now ?
A proper pump does not need to be low, mine is at the top of the engine and scavenges unrestricted twins without issue. And yes there needs to be a check valve or solenoid on the feed line to the turbo to prevent oil movement into the turbo after shutdown
I have an exo mini pump for my twins. They have 10AN on each turbo for drain which then T into a single 10AN line then upward couple inches into pump. My smoke went away immediately when pump was put on. I don’t have a 1psi block off for when motor shuts down. I want one but I gotta see if my feed lines 4an or 3an to order correct fitting
What generally happens in my experience (and this may not apply to you) Is the pump isn't wired to continue running when the car is shut off. Also w/ no check valve on the feed line, it continues to drain into the turbo when the car is shut off. So when it's parked, oil backs up in the drains/turbo and seeps past the ring on the exh shaft and makes a smoky mess on startup. A check valve and a turbo timer on the pump alone sometimes cures this issue. I've seen a few need a sump or stand pipe as u mention. Good luck!
My pump is wired to power on whenever the key is on so if anything I could just leave the key in position 2 for a couple seconds after shutting the car off to keep the pump running.
I have read multiple times about the check valve on the feed line. I'd like to fix the smoking issue while driving before worrying about smoke on startup
Your post implies you changed the scavenge setup ? So did just the turbo change, or turbo and pump etc ?
What pump are you using ? And what turbo was it before, and now ?
A proper pump does not need to be low, mine is at the top of the engine and scavenges unrestricted twins without issue. And yes there needs to be a check valve or solenoid on the feed line to the turbo to prevent oil movement into the turbo after shutdown
The scavenge setup is the same. I thought the pump went bad so I got a replacement. This is the pump I use https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Electri...gAAOSwwpdW2QLo. I know the pump isn't an issue nor was the previous one. I test it on my bench and it flows a ton and has no problem sucking uphill. The only thing I tried changing on my setup was blocking the vent line to ensure the pump is able to pull oil uphill since during my bench testing I discovered that with a vent and no tank, the pump looses all its suction.
A simple timer relay will keep the pump running after shutdown ( although needs wired to suit, they are not a direct replacement for a conventional relay, simple job though )
And once again, you must have a valve in the feed to prevent the turbo getting saturated with oil after shutdown. Until you have done that, it will always smoke at least until all that oil has burnt away after a long drive.
07-20-2020, 11:18 PM
In need of a turbo oil sump 
