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Oh thank God i found it lol
so I some how mispinned the IAT purple wire, in the blue 58 slot... not sure hiw but i somehow had a pin in 56 and 58 BLU that isn't used for anything. I have a spare purple ground reference I'm not sure where it's coming from, but it's not hurting anything yet.
After some PCM pin diagram references between the old 98 diagram and wires, the +99 PCM diagram, and the 98 to 99 pcm repin instructions, I deduced that I had moat of all my purple wires where they were suppose to be, and eliminated the obviously working systems like the fuel pumps, injectors, and coils purple wires that where already working and nothing was acting up in those areas.
then I went through the plug ends and verified if there was a purple wire and if it was suppose to be there, and low and behold two didn't belong. Back probed them from the pcm pin end and the IAT plug end and did a continuity test and found BLU 58 to be the culprit and moved it to RED 57, and verified the fix in HP TUNERS. We have IAT readings now. You dont belong here lol so i must of mixed up reading the tepin process between blu and red plugs, cause some how these were plugged in like there were suppose to be here. Moved the suspect wore to the RED 57 slot Verified in hptuner that the sensor is reading temperature Aome light reading More light reading Even more light reading
Damn it... I think my fuel filter is clogged, either from sitting too long or just being too old. k&N filter was on there. Wasn't planning on running the 8AN 10 micro filter yet, but I guess it forced my hand lol.
gonna get a temporary fuel filter replacment while I get parts ordered so i can at least tune the damn thing.
I also decided to listen to most guidance and switched out the SEP 1500 injectors and installed the Racetronic 80lbs Injectors, and uploaded the injector data. I did notice i had more from the racetronic Injectors over the SEP injectors.
Once I get the fuel filter sorted out, hopefully getting the idle and tune underway will be easier. Not sure if the 1500 were giving me issues or the filter was, but the idle and VE map will be easier with small Injectors to tune.
Sooooo... im also dumb *** 😆 but to be fair it's not ENTIRELY my fault lol the fuel gauge said it was full, but turns out.... inran out of fuel. Fortunately all I spent anything on was a fuel filter to make sure the old filter was wasn't clogged from sitting too long.
I first cracked the fuel rail cross over and other than some residual pressure, nothing came out... so i removed the filter and tried to see if anything would come out when i cranked it... nothing, and the pumps dodnt sound like normal. At first I thought they weren't returning back or stuck in the filter, but when the system was open and NOTHING was coming out, I almost started to think the intake socks were clogged, then I had a thought... make sure there is actual fuel in the tank, so i took an old trans dipstick and ran it down and low and behold not a drop. Ran and grabbed 5 gallons and filled it back up with 93, octane booster, and Heet water remover, and after a few prime cycles to get the fuel circulating around the entire system, cranked it up and I'm back into tuning mode lol
so im gonna have to see why my fuel gauge is not reading properly. I thought I couod keep my fuel gauge with the pcm swap but it seems insight have been mistaken.
Cool, made small but marked progress.
After some assistance from a Facebook member noticing that my TPS signal is high and my wondering why my fuel gauge is pegged at fuel when it clearly is not lol i fixed those at least.
So for those that made the 98 to 99-02 PCM swap, you'll need to adjust your fuel settings in your tune so that your sensor and gauge are actually talking the same language so you don't wind up like me with an empty fuel tank even though the gauge says otherwise lol
also, my TPS was triggered high at idle thanks to a tight and slightly too short 98 throttle cable. this isn't too much of an issue, but it does activate the TPS enough to be at over 2% which at temp makes the car think its being activated to drive and begin to idle at 2000rpm eventually. so, i loosened the cable and adjusted the set screw on the Holly Sniper 92mm TB so that it reads .5% and once it warms up, it purrs like a kitten. i will need to figure out how to cold start it later so that it doesn't require foot input or long cranking. still think I'm missing something, but I'm almost ready to start street tuning, especially since i got my new studs on my front axle after the C7 Z51 Brembo caliper brake upgrade
Feel free to check out the current tune as i figure out what it is im doing lol
Think im gonna rename my car to Maneater lol cause that's all I feel like it does to me lol
makes me work hard, makes me sweat hard all for love lol im pretty sure my car told me it loves me long time too lol
Hope you have some nice empty roads for street tuning. I was doing a little tuning last night and getting wheelspin between 60-70mph in 3rd gear at 13.5psi. This was on fully heated up NT01 tires. I thought it may have been clutch slippage until I checked the log and the rpm and mph still lined up. You have a similar cam on a 6.0 compared to my 5.7, so I expect you will have fun.
Ok, finally got the damn throttle cable in. Was still too tight at first. Finally figure out that I needed to bend the pedal itself slightly over from the bracket. I noticed if I pulled it really hard forward, it actually slide around it and got stuck. So some "firm" convincing on the pedal itself and it now depresses and doesn't touch the pedal bracket. Now the throttle body cam sits flush on the rest. So no random run away idle now when the temp is up. Now to reset the TPS and get a good initial idle so I can get this damn thing tuned finally! The old cable. Needed to be replaced anyway, but it was way shorter now with the FAST intake and Holly TB. Got a 99+ cable to take out some of the taughntness but it was still alightly too ahort by about 1/8" After a couple of different tries tryibg to see if i could take it out or bend it forward Looks like i juat needed to bend it to thw side to clear that bracket slightly. Now i have about an inch more of travel.
Finally had a decent day out and time to do some tuning and man am I struggling to get this thing to hold an idle with out my foot on it. Before the throttle body was being held open by the old cable and assisting with idle at startup, but that would have the car run at 2000rpm at operating temp. Now that the new cable and set screw on the throttle body is back down, the TPS reads .03% open instead of 7% which was way too open.
I've done the basics so far:
-all the usual initial tuning setup to tune in SD open loop and 3 bar map with offset and 80lbs racetronic injector data input and adjusted for full return fuel system.
-set Idle RPM base set point between 1200-950,
-set idle airflow base running airflow
-Set idle airflow startup airflow initial by Adding 14
-tried the 60, 80, 90 % VE start point at 400 to 1300 rpm ranges (which made it even worse so I removed that)
So im curious if the 92FAST, holly 92 Throttlebody, and summit stage 2 turbo 226/230 cam in an LQ4 with ls2 pistons (basically an LQ9) with 241 heads equal 10.5:1CR...
what am I missing to get this thing to hold an idle so I can start dialing in the VE table?
Can you open the TB set screw more without going above about .7% on the TPS position? That should still leave you in the idle tables, but give a better chance of running long enough for you to see what to adjust. As long as you can keep the engine running, nailing down a good idle is the last part of tuning, because it will be greatly affected by the fuel/air changes you make. It sounds like you changed over the data from the SEP injectors to the racetronix, so as long as you did not overlook any of those tables, that should not be an issue. You did get full GM data for the racetronix, right? And hopefully you started over on the VE and BRAF modifications after you got the rest of your issues sorted. No need to try to start on the file you had already modified before fixing everything, as it would have terrible data already baked into it. Also, I would temporarily make all the spark tables in that region 1 number, just to make sure you were not chasing spark corrections, fuel, and air all at the same time. Once you have it in a condition to stay running, spark transitions can be sorted later.
Yep, swapped over everything in the tune for the injectors. The 80lbs injector data was uploaded and scaled accordingly.
I did get some progress out of it. Somelne was gracious enough to take a peak at my tune and a log once I got it to hold the idle long enough with my foot to get to operating temps.
I did lean out the 400-1200 range by 5% and turned up the set screw on the TB to .4% TPS reading. Was holding a rough idle initially but as soon as you blip the throttle it died. After a couple logs and adjustments, finally idles and doesnt cut off if you put some throttle i it. The guy helpped a ton. Adjuated a few tables dor idle but nothig too extreme. Was surprised he re-enabled close loop since it's still not fully tuned in the VE tables yet, but I'm assuming that's for another period of tuning. It's still a bit rough at cold start and needs some assistance with the gas pedal but damn it idles nicely at about 900 now.
Might be able to street tune it if the weather holds out lol
Yep, swapped over everything in the tune for the injectors. The 80lbs injector data was uploaded and scaled accordingly.
I did get some progress out of it. Somelne was gracious enough to take a peak at my tune and a log once I got it to hold the idle long enough with my foot to get to operating temps.
I did lean out the 400-1200 range by 5% and turned up the set screw on the TB to .4% TPS reading. Was holding a rough idle initially but as soon as you blip the throttle it died. After a couple logs and adjustments, finally idles and doesnt cut off if you put some throttle in it. The guy helped a ton. Adjusted a few tables for idle but nothig too extreme. Was surprised he re-enabled close loop since it's still not fully tuned in the VE tables yet, but I'm assuming that's for another period of tuning. It's still a bit rough at cold start and needs some assistance with the gas pedal but damn it idles nicely at about 900 now.
Might be able to street tune it if the weather holds out lol
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