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That looks so much better! The powermaster and ICT alternator bracket looks good on there.. now to find the right belt for this setup. Ive read around somewhere around 73in but ill have to measure to double check.
Yeah... now I need to figure out what belt this configuration uses lol my belts too small.
Did some fiddling with the intake in the garage a bit while i wait for the weather to stop leaving Hurricane gifts everywhere lol now I'm just getting into beautification lol found a boost controller bracket that I can mount my turbosmart control neatly. A nice mounted vacuum manifold with push connect fittings.
still trying to find a map sensor remote referenced bracket so i can keep the sensor out from behind the intake. I kinda want to put it on the EGR location but really don't want to put a massive hole in the snout like that either. Ran some new brake booster vaccum hose so i can run a T fitting and mount the blot to the valve cover bracket. Using the push to connect fittings for moat ofnthe references, and then the front left port for the BOV, and MAPs gonna use the rear port. Intial test fit so o can see where i want to run reference lines and rerun and tuck boost related sensors and accessories so the driver side shock tower is a little less cluttered. Also slightly bent the brack lines behind the ABS modual a bit so they are of the manifold. Sorry for the mess, we're renavating lol oh, also, if you get a fast intake, if you have older style LS6 frint cross over pipes, you have to bend them down a bit to clear the front of the intake underneither. Not boost related.... but i gotta stop the car right 😁 J55 ATS brembo calipers are next! Scored these complete, even with mounting bolts and hoses. Ordered banjos for ls converion. Even has some pad life left. Just need rotors and a few minute to drill the mounting holes and will be done. Need to paint them though. Kinda dont match the red and black theme here lol So im still waitingbfor my 1/4" npt to 1/4" push connect fitting to tap into this hole. I tried to make a bracket hold down, but i do not like how loose and wobbly it sits in the port! I mean, for $1200, this intake should come with a cheap bracket hold down at least for those of us that run boost. A sleeve, shaped bracket, and maybe an adaptor that sandwiches the sensor clip. Might cost $50-80 for quality parts, $20 for a cheap temporary fix.
Did some work today on the car, getting to the point where I can't do anything else until I get the fitting I want for the MAP sensor. Using the coil bracket bolt to hold down the vacuum manifold. Started to plumb the referernce lines. Turbo boost control solenoid with the push to connects mounted in a hold down bracket. Way bettwr than just zip tued to the brake lines like before lol Left port goes to the wastegate bottom port, top port goes to the manifold reference, and the right port to atmosphere. Pretty basic wastegate controller. For now its set for 10psi and 14psi for 2nd map. Was using this setup for the old ls1. Gonna leave it at this range until its tuned to 14 psi, then ill adjust the 2nd map for 22psi later. Lol so in case youre like me and accidently broke the little vaccum fitting while doing the wire tuck or pcm repinning, heres a quick reference for the dorman replacment if youre still using HVAC At least i didnt break the lines, just the nipple on the fittings Had to make a hose adaptor since the Racetronic Hobbs switch had a male end instead of a female. Ill get an push connect with a female coupling. Gonna find a hose clamp to bolt this down later. Hiding the methanol booat switch right next to the boost controller. Reference line run up and around the brake booster to stay somewhat out of site and away from moat heat sources. Found this little adaptor to make the ls1 clip style MAP into having a bolt down, simular to the the lsa/ls9. Gonna see if i can get a remote block so i can place it a little more securely. And all the reference lines, are all plumbed into position. The BOV has 1/8 threads but the wastegate dosesnt on the bottom port. Unfortunatly, i had to make an adaptor hose between the wastegate and the push connect. Ill find a smaller push connect to match the huron waste gate lower port later.
I'm so close I can taste it lol
FAST 92 intake installed and torqed down per their specs. Might be a hair more than 89inlbs. I converted it to ftlbs since all I had was 3/8 torq wrench. 2 passes of 5 and then 8 ftlbs.
all boost accessories have been hooked up and secured
plumbed new 6an ptfe hose to the FPR.
hooked up the feed line
secured the hose and hotwire to the brake and fuel line routing. I'll hook up an 8an ptfe later.
MAP sensor port tapped and remotely plumbed. I'll get a block later to mount it to. 1/4" npt to 1/4" push connect tapped into the rear port. Prestaged all the intake to be installed. Placed split hoses to hold the bolts up. With the rails on, you have to put the split hoses between the allen bolt head and the washer. I tightened all the AN hoses as well before installing it. Everyhring is nice and tucked in against the intake to slide under the cowl. I capped the rear vacuum port, the front purge port, and the throttbody top port. Methanol line has been installed back on the checkvalve For now the map sensor and reference hose are hanging out here. Hooked the alternator up to the positive terminal. 10an hoses slip nicely under the tower bar and away from the alternator Both catch cans hooked up. Bumper cover back on, looks like i need to pretty up the bumper now 2 step and hobb switch. Ill clean this up later too. For now they are juat hanging out. Gonna see what i can do to mount these down. Much cleaner but still gonna find how to make this a bit more All hooked up Cant wait to fire this badboy up! A bit more tucked away now. Remote powersteering reservoir hooked back into the bracket. Front of the engine is much better now. Still need to clean up this radiator cover. Gonna paint it later to match the car. Secured the rear to hold against the radiator. Need to top off the radiator and bleed the coolant system when i get it started. Finally measured the belt routing. Measures out to 78.5", and accounting for the tensioner gonna try out a 76.5 to run.
Now for the true challenge. Getting this thing to turn over and run. I initialized an HP Tuner update. Swapped dover the engine to 6.0L and changed the injector flow rate to about 140lbs for the 1500 SEP injectors for generic fuel rate for now. kpa has been accounted for for the 3bar MAP sensor.
I got it to crank once, and then it only clicks the starter now. Looks like i gotta chase down some grounds. I need to reinstall a ground strap i forgot that is on the lower driver side that may not be on the LQ4. I'm also thinking of adding a ground on the alternator to the main ground lug.
I get fuel pressure though, and no leaks detected to that's a plus at least.
Now for the true challenge. Getting this thing to turn over and run. I initialized an HP Tuner update. Swapped dover the engine to 6.0L and changed the injector flow rate to about 140lbs for the 1500 SEP injectors for generic fuel rate for now. kpa has been accounted for for the 3bar MAP sensor.
I got it to crank once, and then it only clicks the starter now. Looks like i gotta chase down some grounds. I need to reinstall a ground strap i forgot that is on the lower driver side that may not be on the LQ4. I'm also thinking of adding a ground on the alternator to the main ground lug.
I get fuel pressure though, and no leaks detected to that's a plus at least.
Now to get this thing to turn over lol
Since SEP now gives what is supposed to be real Hptuner injector characterization data, it would probably be wise to use it instead of just making up numbers for fueling. And I don't mean just the total flow rate. This can eliminate future issues with transient fueling as well as idle. Also, when you change the cylinder volume in hptuners, it automatically scales the VE table percentages, so you may need to copy back your VE numbers after changing from 5.7 to 6.0 cylinder volume. If, however, you just changed the engine size pulldown option, it does nothing.
So I left my old tune from my 5.7L in there, I only modified the generic injector data for now, I did get the flow sheet, but i don't know if that's helps. When I got my deka 80lbs, there was an excel that I couod copy an paste the injector data into. I might need to contact them and ask if they have anything like that to plug into the tune.
im using my current VE table from when i had the ls1 with the summit stage 2 cam. I'll have to account for the extra Cubi inchs and airflow from the fast intake, but everything else is the same from the previous setup other than tuning for higher boost capability later.
So I left my old tune from my 5.7L in there, I only modified the generic injector data for now, I did get the flow sheet, but i don't know if that's helps. When I got my deka 80lbs, there was an excel that I couod copy an paste the injector data into. I might need to contact them and ask if they have anything like that to plug into the tune.
im using my current VE table from when i had the ls1 with the summit stage 2 cam. I'll have to account for the extra Cubi inchs and airflow from the fast intake, but everything else is the same from the previous setup other than tuning for higher boost capability later.
I looked at the SEP website, and they now have a link to a dropbox account with the spreadsheet files for plug and play gm data in hptuners format. As for your tune file, I would suggest changing the cylinder volume to account for the difference between 5.7 and 6.0, but as I said, hp will automatically scale the ve table back, so you need to copy the original 5.7 ve back into the newly modified 6.0 file. This should give a good starting point.
That's actually awesome, I just looked into the SEP website and pulled up the 1500long excel. Looks like It has a bunch of info to help plug into the tune. Thanks for that, I didn't think that was in there.
I'm dropping it in here to look at later
IT LIVES!!!!!!
I was a little worried cause It was having some intermittent click and not start or nothing when turning the key. After probing all my grounds and verifying my connections, I had a sneaking suspicion that my start might have died finally. So, I hit it with my purse for $50 and got a new starter, since I'm already updating the entire charging system anyway lol. I even grounded the alternator just in case.
swapped out the starter and it started right up. Upon further inspection, one of the nuts were loose on the old starter between the solenoid and the starter ground strap. At least it was an easy cheap fix.
video to follow.
Still trying to figure out loading videos after all these years lol
So did Some minor tuning adjustments. Plugged in the offset vs volts table, and shirt pulse adder table. My flow rate was pretty spot on actually. Since I have a full return style fuel system and a boost adjusted FPR, I've left the injector flow rate at 140lbs which is just under what these 1500cc=142lbs injectors at 43.5psi. At 58psi like ls one systems usually are set it's more like 165lbs injectors but for now, im leaving them at 140. Even at 80% duty cycle, I've got more than enough injectors to support this system.
I can't sem to find where I would put the table for short pulse correction. sep gives a table for it, but i can find that table like i do for the adder. It only has a minimum setting right now.
This is gonna be a process lol
still trying to get the idle to sit right, and find that the cable is a bit too tight on the TB cam, but I I remove it... I can't get it to idle. Set the screw to at least be slightly open so it can at least idle for now on the holly sniper.
I did notice the IAT sensor was reading -38 which is weird. Ill have to double check if i have the plug in corretly.
onc issue I've run into and I'll have to do some more home work, is that idles and gets up to temp it died on its own after it got to about 189* .
here's some tuning logs and tune data. Current VE table. This was what was in thw tune with the ls1 and stage 2 cam. Current AFR... a tad rich for idle, but it runs right now Spark advance for now. I cant say if this ia good or bad right now afr Error... green is a bit rich as the AFR has indicated. Need to pull a bit of fuel out i assum.
There is a setting under engine>fuel>transient called minimum fuel milligrams. You usually have to lower or zero the number there in order to idle large injectors. Some people swear by calculating a percent of your minimum idle pulse width and some say to just zero that setting. I have seen no ill effects from zeroing it.
I did take into consideration and it helped the initial idle a whole bunch. Sounds soooo much better.
I did a few things.
Plugged in the SEP 1500 injector data (flow rate, short pulse rate, offset vs voltage vs vac),
also zeroed out transient min fuel milligrams for the larger injectors,
and pulled 10% or -0.98 of fuel out of the VE table in the idle area.
I then sat and monitored it until it got to about 130*.
I touched the throttle and it died on me lol but it held 900ish rpm nearly the whole time after initial start up. Pures so much smoother now. I prefer a smooth idle so no chop/chop tuning here lol and my cams pretty tame anyway.
So i finally figured out part of my issue was. I got a 99+ pcm pin out chart and cross referenced the 98 pcm wires, and I seem to be missing the purple RED 57 iat ground pin some how is not there. So now I gotta figure out which purple wire is in the wrong spot 😭 So i gotta figure out which of these 8 purple wires are the IAT ground wire So pin 25 is the TAN iat sensor wire, and then 57 is the PURPLE ground reference to the pcm on the +99 pcm, and i did confirm that the 98 wire harness color are the same.
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