BlwnTA

iTrader: (18)

Bos, I can't believe Scott at SDCE didn't wear you out explaining that the D1SC is capable of 900+ rwhp. The problem is the set-up's out there. It's a function of:

1) CFM's in....which is restricted by the design of the inlet hat (a RU-1030 K&N on the plastic surge pipe will help)

2) Impeller speed producing CFM's out (we all know how to control that)

3) Restriction of the intercooler(s) you can check this by putting a gauge on the pipe before the intercooler(s) to see what the difference is from what the engine sees.

4) What your motor can flow..heads and cam being the main issue.

All this dictates power....Scott claims proper set-up will give you 900 rwhp.

My suggestion is go with a FMIC and crank up the impeller speed for starters. The only real reason to go with an F1 (and I have thought about it) is to push the same cfm's with less pulley speed and eliminate some of these belt issues. But that's one expensive fix!

Mark

CHRISPY

I think you are wasting your money IMO.

The D1SC with a big front mount will make 750+ RWHP in your unlocked TH400 application very easily.

That thing can flow a lot of air. Put in the intercooler, pulley it up and see what you can get from it

you need a solid intake, 4 x 9 inch K&N (Which will fit under the headlight area when you go FMIC) and a pulley change with tuning

S_J_H

BIGBOS, Guys have made over 600 rwhp with a G-trim Vortech.
And that is mucho smaller than a D1SC ATI. I think a D1SC with max effort type plumbing should make 700+ rwhp.
I would work on intake ducting into the blower. It should be at least 4" and install the FMIC with good well thought out piping. You can't get the flow out of it if the blower can't breath.
I would at least wait until you max out your current combo.
In good weather I think your bucket o' parts should be capable to run very low 10's at 130+, and with the cam you have now.
Steve

kp

iTrader: (34)

Just finished up that C5 with a D1 A&A kit, final numbers were over 650rwhp on pump gas at a super safe 11:5 a/f with home ported 853 heads, stock valves, 9:1 and a 222/228 115 XE cam. That a C5 with 4.56 gears and 13psi.

I would wait to do the FMIC and see what happens before you spend the money on an F1.

BIGBOS

Yea, I forgot about Scott's preaching......

I thinking if I should go even smaller than a 3.2" pulley......if I'm seeing 11psi now consitently with the 3.4" where will the 3.2" take me? What would a 3.0" do?

LSs1Power

iTrader: (5)

When are u getting ur FMIC BigBos?

BIGBOS

Week or two, I guess Griffin is really hard to get a hold of.......

Also, what are the chances that I will see a boost drop from putting this thing on the car, I will really crap my pants if that happens

CHRISPY

A boost drop? If you free up the flow before the intake side you should see a boost increase not decrease.

I would really get rid of that cam as well. It is way too small for a 375ci motor.

Also with the cam you can grind it to allow the motor to flow a LOT more cfm at a given RPM range.

For instance, say the bigger intercooler and pulley change give you 16#'s boost with the FMIC in and the cam you have now. I bet with a proper spec cam swap for your motor's size you could get the boost down to 12-13#s.

It'll lower your octane requirement and/or allow you to run more timing while flowing the same cfm through the motor.

BIGBOS

Thats what I'm hoping for.......I'll most likely push this setup as far as it can go with the cam, I have no other choice due to the lack of dollars, but if I do sell my stock ATI stuff that will give me some cash to either do the cam myself or have someone else do it.....

BlwnTA

iTrader: (18)

I agree with Chris ....what size is your cam now?

blackz93

iTrader: (2)

i agree with psj, friends car went 10.59 at 130 with slipping belt...only 7-8 psi, in a full weight car and not a very good 60ft, prolly a high 1.50-low 1.60?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

In an ideal world Brian, you would swap out that small cam and go with a bigger cam maybe along the lines of what I have or smaller. I would also evaluate your valve springs at that point. This is also in concert with a FMIC install.

But if the cam/springs upgrade is spendy for you at present maybe just do the FMIC and do some research into the best pulley setup. I really think that you need to overspin that D1 to get it to work better that is what I have always heard for those blowers. But when you look at pulleying down the blower you also need to again look at belt wrap and see if it will work.

I would say that (like me) you have an impressive pile of parts that you need to dial in before you upgrade the blower to an F1.

U-Luze

iTrader: (4)

Ill let you know if my F1 will be up for sale by the end of the week. Im gonna try to get my car to wheel to wheel this week. If im not satisified with the power it makes with the 404 inch motor with the F1 im upgradeing to a F1R or F2. Thanks Justin

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

I believe its a 218/224 .540ish/.540ish on a 114LSA.........

BIGBOS

214/218 .540/.550 114lsa

I'll probably go either....

232/238 .590/.600 114lsa

236/242 .600/.610 114 or 115lsa

CHRISPY

BIGBOS I would look at something in between the two you have listed...

Something in the 234/242 on 114LSA range.

You will pick up a TON of power with the cam above, pulley change and big FMIC. I would bet on gains over 120RWHP with only a few extra pounds of boost.

69firebird

iTrader: (14)

man thats a small cam you put in there, good luck with everything

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

No the D-1R will not fit any self contained bracket,It will fit all others like the P600 or D-1 ect.You could easily make a bracket or buy one.I could send a template of my bracket to anyone that purchased it.

BIGBOS

Yea, I'm hoping for big gains with a larger cam.......