Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

LS1 Block reliability

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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 07:26 PM
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Default LS1 Block reliability

Hey there Guys

I have searched through the threads and can't seem to find anywhere about the amount of Boost and horsepower an LS1 block can handle.

Before someone says it, I'm from South Africa and we can't get Iron Blocks (would love to use LQ4 or LQ9) without importing from USA (crazy expensive). So I unfortunately can only use the LS1 aluminium block.

I have upgraded all the internals. Forged Crank (4 inch stroke), connecting rods and Pistons. BTR Stage 2 twin turbo Cam with new springs, Lifters, Trunion upgrade and pushrods. Going with a Holley Lo Ram LS modular intake. I've read these aren't good unless your running the car above 6000 RPM. Is the performance loss really that substantial? I like the intake alot for the look and strength of it.

This car will be a daily driven street car aiming to make 800 wheel horsepower, with the option to up the boost when I want a little more excitement.
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My main question is, how much boost can I safely run on the LS1 block. It seems to now be my weakest factor? I've spent alot of time and money on the internals and turbo upgrades and don't want it all being blown up. This is my first engine and car build.

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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 08:24 PM
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The 4" stroke crank is going to make that block considerably weaker.
Depending on the year of your LS1, the sleeves had cracking issues that the stroke is only going to make worse.
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 09:09 PM
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I have put 12 lbs to my 2001 with it only pushing water. Once or twice overboosted to around 15 and it survived. It's all stock except for valve springs. Anyway, I'd say keep it around 12 and that should be safe.
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 07:28 AM
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My ls1 failed at 10# boost. Wasnt a fuel issue lol
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 07:41 AM
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How did it fail?
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 07:57 AM
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Bent rod and failed bearings.

Plenty of oil pressure.... no overheat. Not sure exactly why i did.
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 11:37 AM
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Not a forced induction owner but with good gas, good tuning I think a good 1999 and up LS1 block will live at 700whp for a while. I don't know beyond 700whp. Maybe others will have more insight. No experience with the 97-98 blocks but they are different and IMO slightly more fragile. My opinion is based on these experiences:

1) A friend pushed his Prochargered 2002 SS with a stock bottom end LS1 to ~680 whp for a while...the LS1 block was OK...the stock rings eventually gave up.

2) The take out LS1 I used for my NA 383 LS1 stroker was in a shop race car that had forced induction. The LS1 block survived in good condition and we used it for stroker. My understanding is it was pushing ~700 whp for a while. It wasted the stock rings and a couple of pistons.


I also think a 4 inch stroke 383 LS1 under boost will likely be more fragile than a stock stroke LS1. I may not say the following in exactly the correct technical jargon but I think it covers the basic issue.

To get correct piston taper, and this is critical to avoid piston rock at bottom & avoid an oil burner, for a 4 inch stroker LS1 the ring package has to shift upward. The piston is already shorter due to the stroker application so the area for the ring package is fairly small and compressed.

The result is the piston crown thickness ends up so it isn't that well suited for forced induction. With the stock stroke one a pick a better piston with a thick crown for forced induction.
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 11:55 AM
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Cast rotating assembly in an ls6 block here making 650-700whp here at 15 psi no issues.
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 06:37 PM
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The ls1 block will meet your needs with ease. We went mid 8’s for a couple years at 3500lb with zero issues on a 383 ls1 block setup.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 05:39 AM
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Thank you all for your messages. Really helpful stuff alot of mixed experiences. I think due to the lack of availability of iron blocks. I am going to run the car with aluminium block and see how long it lasts. If the cylinder walls crack at least I can just transplant all the internals to a new block. Won't be a total loss. I pray

Thanks all.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 05:59 AM
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We crack a cylinder on a 98 ls1 block on 15#s
Forged rods and pistons, 660 rwhp thru a th400 and 9''.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 07:14 AM
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What the cylinder crack detrimental to the whole engine or was everything else OK?
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 02:16 PM
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Might be a silly question butttt, when you all say ran at say 10psi, do you mean at the intake or pressure at compressor? I mean there may be 2 to 3 psi difference? Depending on intercooler drop etc etc....or shall i keep quiet.....
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 02:53 PM
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It busted the Piston and cracked the cylinder. 15 lbs intake pressure.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Gav
Might be a silly question butttt, when you all say ran at say 10psi, do you mean at the intake or pressure at compressor? I mean there may be 2 to 3 psi difference? Depending on intercooler drop etc etc....or shall i keep quiet.....
It doesn't matter, either.
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Gav
Might be a silly question butttt, when you all say ran at say 10psi, do you mean at the intake or pressure at compressor? I mean there may be 2 to 3 psi difference? Depending on intercooler drop etc etc....or shall i keep quiet.....
Who runs a MAP sensor in the compressor?
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by AwesomeAuto
Who runs a MAP sensor in the compressor?
I think he's saying that some people reference the boost controller to the compressor itself instead of the intake. So 10 psi would be from the perspective of the compressor, not at the intake mani.
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
I think he's saying that some people reference the boost controller to the compressor itself instead of the intake. So 10 psi would be from the perspective of the compressor, not at the intake mani.
Yeah, but either way you should be taking your boost readings from the map sensor, not the boost controller.
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by AwesomeAuto
Yeah, but either way you should be taking your boost readings from the map sensor, not the boost controller.
I agree but I don't think that was the intent of his post. He was just trying to understand does 10 psi max (which it isnt) mean 10 psi from the turbo or what the motor actually sees. They're different power limits. It's all inference from his post anyhow lol.
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 09:37 AM
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Hi, that is what i meant. And on a stock bottom end 3psi with these i guess is quite a difference. I just dont want to go too high with mine and making sure of things as never done turbo before as you all can tell...i will be referencing the compressor pre intercooler for the wastegstes first...start low and see what psi i get in manifold...
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