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You may have too much water in the mix. What pressure? Are you using washer fluid? I use 2 bottles of the yellow "Heet" (which is basically 100% methanol) with each gallon of 30% washer fluid. I'm told this yields around 50%. May try upping your methanol content instead of pulling back volume. If it still bogs try reducing pressure a bit.
good call. I have only one bottle of heet to the gallon of washer fluid. I do have a shurflo pump but I’m using my washer pump for now. Not sure on the psi. I was just trying to “wing it” as usual.
I've used those push fittings in my engine bay for years and years with no issues. If its on top or under an intake manifold I don't see it being an issue. But sure, some common sense is required with routing and placement. If you use 50/50 mixtures it isn't even flammable, so not a lot of risk IMO.
The Devils own pump I use is rated at 40gph at 100psi. Id run a 5 at each runner. Then PWM the pump as needed and let it eat. The volume those lines hold is pretty minimal. A single check valve at the feed would likely be fine. If it was really a problem you can get the Viton push lock check valves pretty reasonably and put then at each nozzle. The devils own pumps have internal check valves in the pump as well.
I have an old shurflow pump (don't even recall the model) pressure bounces like crazy but at 100% DC it will bounce up to 155ish psi.
I have a pretty rinky dink setup and not much into it. But it works well on my non-intercooled 5.3 twin setup. I spray pre-turbo.
So you've actual pressure logs from it in use under load ? Would be interesting to see them
My AEM "big" triple chamber DDP5800 pump that claims 200psi etc....as said, under load, in the real world is maxing at 140psi. Which vs boost, is really only then say 120psi across the nozzle.
Actual real load testing vs flow with various nozzles....really IMO these pumps...ar at least my pump I tested is only good for about 1200cc of flow before pressure is dropping so much any spray patter from the nozzles is woeful.
Although I've never seen anyone else actually do any proper testing, just always quoting claimed figures from suppliers etc
So you've actual pressure logs from it in use under load ? Would be interesting to see them
My AEM "big" triple chamber DDP5800 pump that claims 200psi etc....as said, under load, in the real world is maxing at 140psi. Which vs boost, is really only then say 120psi across the nozzle.
Actual real load testing vs flow with various nozzles....really IMO these pumps...ar at least my pump I tested is only good for about 1200cc of flow before pressure is dropping so much any spray patter from the nozzles is woeful.
Although I've never seen anyone else actually do any proper testing, just always quoting claimed figures from suppliers etc
I don't log pressure, no. I put a pressure gauge on my system. Then used the MS3 to PWM the pump and recorded the pressures at different duty cycles to get a basic idea of flow VS DC to setup my progressive map. Not sure if you've ever put a gauge on one of those pumps before but the pulse style pumps are hard to read. Felt like my gauge was going to break. It would ocellate pressure from like 50 to 150+ VERY rapidly. I believe the pump is an older 8000 series Shurflow, nothing special. I did test it on the car with the car running. So it was getting 13+ volts. I'd have to look back and see if I wrote down exact voltage.
I realize pressure helps atomize, but according to the nozzles I use, 100psi will produce 5 micron droplets. So 100psi and higher I'm happy with. I've run water/meth on many cars over the years and I've never seen any blade damage when used as we do. Also smaller nozzles seem to "FOG" better. IE two 5gph nozzles produce a denser fog than 1 10gph nozzle... in my experience anyway. So a direct port setup with 8 3-5gph nozzles should work well. A direct port setup has been on my "To do" list a long time now. Ive researched it a lot, but not actually done one.
I like that they rate the DO "300psi" pumps with a volume VS PSI chart. I haven't seen other companies do this.
They claim to still flow 30GPH at 200psi. And 48 GPH at 100psi. I've had this pump on my Rx7 for 5 years and its never skipped a beat.
It would be pretty easy to see if its getting a min pressure by using a hobbs switch. I use a 50 psi setup on mine to an LED so I can guarantee that I have 50 psi of meth pressure during a pull. Replace it with a pressure that you want to see 100, 150, whatever and you'll know if you're getting that pressure when WOT easily.
It would be pretty easy to see if its getting a min pressure by using a hobbs switch. I use a 50 psi setup on mine to an LED so I can guarantee that I have 50 psi of meth pressure during a pull. Replace it with a pressure that you want to see 100, 150, whatever and you'll know if you're getting that pressure when WOT easily.
Wonder if the lower readings between pulses would trip the switch if you ran say a 100psi pressure switch. Pretty violent little pumps.
Wonder if the lower readings between pulses would trip the switch if you ran say a 100psi pressure switch. Pretty violent little pumps.
I get a solid green LED with my 50 psi switch and an aquamist pump (no progressive, just boost switch activated). I guess it could drop below 100 but it would be pretty easy to tell if it is or not.
But PWM frequency did also make a difference to how smooth the pressure from the pumps are, and I guess nozzle sizes may also play a role too.
But a simple static light/pressure reading means little ( although better than no indicator ). It could be 51psi or 151psi, or if the nozzles are blocked it may make the 200-300psi the pumps claim they can.
It's so cheap to log....makes little sense not to. Then with an aftermarket ecu, base any fuel/spark adjustments based around the pressure. An almost foolproof failsafe.
I get a solid green LED with my 50 psi switch and an aquamist pump (no progressive, just boost switch activated). I guess it could drop below 100 but it would be pretty easy to tell if it is or not.
I have the Alkycontrol kit which uses the LED also. I like my kit. Just cost $970 lol
But PWM frequency did also make a difference to how smooth the pressure from the pumps are, and I guess nozzle sizes may also play a role too.
But a simple static light/pressure reading means little ( although better than no indicator ). It could be 51psi or 151psi, or if the nozzles are blocked it may make the 200-300psi the pumps claim they can.
It's so cheap to log....makes little sense not to. Then with an aftermarket ecu, base any fuel/spark adjustments based around the pressure. An almost foolproof failsafe.
Meth nozzles RARELY clog and having a guaranteed pressure switch showing an LED is better than any failsafe that is currently on the market. They all go off of pump voltage/current and there is a million ways that can have failures and lie to you. Some of you forget not everyone has an aftermarket ECU either.
Meth nozzles RARELY clog and having a guaranteed pressure switch showing an LED is better than any failsafe that is currently on the market. They all go off of pump voltage/current and there is a million ways that can have failures and lie to you. Some of you forget not everyone has an aftermarket ECU either.
Aquamists have failsafes based around flow and other parameters I believe. An LED off a pressure switch is most certainly not the best failsafe on the market...and it is just a warning light, not a failsafe. As it still requires the user to see the LED then react to it.
I've never seen any based off pump voltage or current...which would be an odd approach given how the pumps are controlled in the first place.
A failsafe should not require the user to notice it and react, especially when milliseconds could make all the difference
Aquamists have failsafes based around flow and other parameters I believe. An LED off a pressure switch is most certainly not the best failsafe on the market...and it is just a warning light, not a failsafe. As it still requires the user to see the LED then react to it.
I've never seen any based off pump voltage or current...which would be an odd approach given how the pumps are controlled in the first place.
A failsafe should not require the user to notice it and react, especially when milliseconds could make all the difference
Please explain how the Aquamist kit measures flow when there isn't a transducer built into the controller in line with the meth line?
That didn't come in the stateside kit that I bought or was shown on their website as part of their kit either. Haven't seen it from Snow or Devil's own either.
Obviously there are various levels of kit you can buy, and cheaper versions without etc.
Aquamist is the only one I am aware of that uses a flow sensor. Although for a short time AEM did also offer a flow sensor/gauge, not sure if it actually integrated into their meth controllers for anything properly useful though
Although a standalone flow sensor could be incorporated into an aftermarket ecu install too as long as it's happy to receive a pulsed/frequency input as most flow sensors seem to be like that.
Although in normal operation, pressure is pretty consistent and doesnt actually vary that much, as the pumps actual output vs control duty is a fairly narrow range.
Even with a very small 640cc nozzle, 50% duty in a static test seen around 90psi, 100% duty was around 155psi ( PWM frequency 100Hz )
Although in real terms, actual flow through the nozzle was nowhere near the 50% difference. And very rarely would I ever be running pump duty at 50% anyway.
So it's easy to mark failsafes. Below 90psi do not add timing or reduce fueling. And above 160psi do not add timing or reduce fueling. Either would be considered a problem.
Simple, safe and almost foolproof
Just checking through the old tests.
With a 940cc and 640cc nozzle ( 10 and 7 gph I believe, Devilsown nozzles ) at 100% duty, static test, it only made 130psi and actually only flowed 1200cc with a crap spray patter from that larger nozzle.
At 54% pump duty, it only made 78psi
Hence overall I reduced nozzle sizes to actually around a quoted 1200cc worth of flow, pressure did jump a bit, actual flow did stay the same and spray pattern improved.
With the shitty Holley intake I currently have....I have seen fluid welling in the little valley in the intake when I've removed or viewed through the TB blade.
Which would make you wonder how well any wet liquid is getting distributed in such an intake.
Obviously there are various levels of kit you can buy, and cheaper versions without etc.
Aquamist is the only one I am aware of that uses a flow sensor. Although for a short time AEM did also offer a flow sensor/gauge, not sure if it actually integrated into their meth controllers for anything properly useful though
Although a standalone flow sensor could be incorporated into an aftermarket ecu install too as long as it's happy to receive a pulsed/frequency input as most flow sensors seem to be like that.
Although in normal operation, pressure is pretty consistent and doesnt actually vary that much, as the pumps actual output vs control duty is a fairly narrow range.
Even with a very small 640cc nozzle, 50% duty in a static test seen around 90psi, 100% duty was around 155psi ( PWM frequency 100Hz )
Although in real terms, actual flow through the nozzle was nowhere near the 50% difference. And very rarely would I ever be running pump duty at 50% anyway.
So it's easy to mark failsafes. Below 90psi do not add timing or reduce fueling. And above 160psi do not add timing or reduce fueling. Either would be considered a problem.
Simple, safe and almost foolproof
Just checking through the old tests.
With a 940cc and 640cc nozzle ( 10 and 7 gph I believe, Devilsown nozzles ) at 100% duty, static test, it only made 130psi and actually only flowed 1200cc with a crap spray patter from that larger nozzle.
At 54% pump duty, it only made 78psi
Hence overall I reduced nozzle sizes to actually around a quoted 1200cc worth of flow, pressure did jump a bit, actual flow did stay the same and spray pattern improved.
It just dawned on me that I was thinking of Alky Control, not Aquamist. Completely different company obviously and Alky control and Snow/D.O. do not use any type of real flow measurement to my knowledge.
One of the reasons straight methanol works best. It changes from a liquid to gas state at around 150*. The phase change is where the majority of the work takes place. And when it flashes to a gas it is distributed more evenly. Then factor in the octane bump. Then for the bad... factor in the fire hazard and possible intake piping/manifold explosions if a back fire occurred.
Water doesn't' change state till 212*. So if your intercooled and inject at the TB the phase change doesn't happen till it's in the cylinder. Distribution is then more of an issue since its still in liquid form and its not combustible and gives no added octane. It does pull a ton more heat at like volumes... but your limited by your ignition system. Where as you can spray HUGE volumes of methanol with no ignition problems.
Those temps are skewed higher with pressure as well. So the compromise is the highest non-flammable mixture of methanol and water.
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