I don't know when that rumor came about, you can get aluminum stick welding electrodes.

 

I was talking about the Flowtech style ones. They were briefly less than $90 shipped.
Sucks your ebay 7875 didn't last, maybe it was just a fluke? I know a ton of people running them now with no reported issues.

 

Pretty sure my next build will use the flowtech style since I recently made room for them. But the ones I posted have proven to work well in G8's and clear low mount alternators, fox bodies, C6's (with a tweak to clear steering), and CTSV's.

I'm not mad at it, but $100 more for nicer VSR unit won't break the bank. Plus buying a dual vband turbine housing alone would cost more.

 

The Gen 1 7875s, both cast and billet, are being discontinued at VSR.

 

I agree on building my own setup, I work as a tech/fabricator by trade, but Im so busy working on customer vehicles I don't make time for my personal projects! All those bills dont pay themselves..
I actually enjoy fabbing setups by just buying the most critical components. I had to build my own headers for my LS swap in my Tacoma in order to make them clear such a tight engine bay.
And I am planning on building the setup with V-bands, makes it much easier, even if I need to weld on my own to the cast hotside. Just makes it much nice when it comes time for maintenance.
My car makes 630rwhp now and my goal was closer to 8-900 at the tires.
I want to run a rear mount on my Tacoma swap since packaging makes it pretty hard to fit under the hood, but have plenty of space under the bed. I just need to look up the proper pumps for the oil scavenging system, sump, turbo sizing etc...I've never built a rear mount setup so Ill have to do some more reading to make that happen.

 

Those are the headers I was talking about, the thing I dont love about them is how close they sit to the valve covers and I run tall ones like pictured due to my valvetrain braces.
But yeah that has some parts that would get me started on the setup.

 

I checked on the D1x head unit and was just over $3k, I guess I could do that but Id honestly rather go turbo with room to crank it up.

 

Does anyone have links to the V-band headers (SBC if you know of any) and those turbos with V-band on hotsides?
Im going to start collecting some parts for the new setup. I'm running the old Holley 950 commander MPFI system, so I might see if I can upgrade the software to the terminator X as well for better control.

 

https://www.holley.com/products/exha...8aAvSiEALw_wcB

 

Yup, thats why I got the gen 2's which are cheap too. Plus I don't recall any of the gen 1 having dual vband housings, that was a nextgen, gen2/2.5 thing.

Turbos are a ton more fun!

 

To do it right, you would want to blow the turbos through the Procharger and then to the IC/engine. That way the blower would be less of a restriction.

 

You can gas weld it too....

It's a metal, it melts...many things can weld it if you're not that fussy really lol

 

Have you seen any setups doing so? I like science projects, but always nice to see someone else did it before I did!
It was a MFer getting that LS motor in my Tacoma, haha...I had nobody to piggyback off of!

 

You could do it. It was done a long time ago. The two most common WW II airplane engines, the Allison V-1710 and the Rolls-Royce Merlins had multi-stage superchargers. This was to overcome the loss of air density at altitude.

So, you could do it, the concept is proven, but you are better off selling the P-1SC and getting a bigger unit.

 

You only make as much power as the atmosphere blower can push... no matter how many times you compound that air mass, it is still the same amount of air.

And, you can stick and a2a intercooler between the blower and the turbo, then use an a2w intercooler in the intake hooked up to your air conditioner.

 

I've seen a centri and a Roots, and turbos and roots, but not specifically turbos and a centri. Although when I was changing from YSi to twins, I did actually build my own setup with the blower still in place, so I could have run both if I really wanted. Just figured it would have been more hassle than it was worth though, as wanted to free up space up top with the removal of the blower.

But if I got a cheap LSA or something, I'd like to try with a big set of twins and a 2350 or something. Just not sure how much the 2350 might restrict up top though even with the turbos blowing through it

 

Ultimately are either worth it ? Really depends on your patience, budget and any goals.

Or here's a very old one from Sweden I think, Opel Manta with a Volvo engine, and a turbo and roots.

 

Banks have just done a video on a compound diesel (turbos to Whipple SC). It didn’t turn out too well.


if you wanted to do it right you would need to copy the VW system and run the SC first blowing into the turbos with a bypass (to ambient air). Then once the turbos come online they can 100% take over the boost duties and the SC is just left spinning. See this setup by Norris designs on a 4G63t.

 

The "right" way, would be bypassing the blower entirely, and clutching it so it does not spin.

But the "right" way, and what is technically and easily achievable are not always compatible.

 

Its been tried a few times with LSA and LSA style blowers, blower still got in the way and the vehicles went faster on turbo alone. The CTSV wagon that runs half mile comes to mind with the large rear mount and they tried keeping the blower at first. Some Benz guys tried large turbos blowing through the E55 blower awhile ago as well.