Proper intake manifold sizing - gift from Santa
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 249
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From: Pennsylvania
[QUOTE=DavidBoren;20312153]Street ability and 1200hp don't belong in the same sentence for sane/responsible people.
That is the whole point of the turbo ls phenomenon? Have 1200 hp, drive up to an e85 pump, run 8s and cruise down the highway at 70mph right? We have everything at our disposal from fuel injection to flex fuel to OD transmissions that handle that kind of power. Buy good parts and “responsibly” feed it boost that’s what we build these things for!
That is the whole point of the turbo ls phenomenon? Have 1200 hp, drive up to an e85 pump, run 8s and cruise down the highway at 70mph right? We have everything at our disposal from fuel injection to flex fuel to OD transmissions that handle that kind of power. Buy good parts and “responsibly” feed it boost that’s what we build these things for!
Wow the site went from build a junk yard 5.3 with stock heads cam only as the answer for everything under 1200 hp suddenly did a 180 and now makes fun of those people as broke *ss b*tches...LOL
Sure I could put $3000+ heads and state of the art intake/throttle body on it and make the same power with less boost, but I'd be $5000+ poorer and still running the same times.
Some brag about making power with less boost others brag about making the same power or running just as fast with less $$$ even if it took more psi. That is the great thing about this hobby...many great options that fit all budgets and it's up to each individual to choose the best combination to reach their goals within their budget.
Sure I could put $3000+ heads and state of the art intake/throttle body on it and make the same power with less boost, but I'd be $5000+ poorer and still running the same times.
Some brag about making power with less boost others brag about making the same power or running just as fast with less $$$ even if it took more psi. That is the great thing about this hobby...many great options that fit all budgets and it's up to each individual to choose the best combination to reach their goals within their budget.
Why do you even need an LS then? Wouldn't a 2JZ make the same power? Just add more boost, right? Probably don't even need a 2JZ... there's 1000hp 4G63's out there, all it takes is boost. Are LS engines just cheap and easy to find, otherwise you would be building 1000hp V6 Essex motors or whatever those K24 motors are/were?
At some point, displacement keeps the boost and rpms managable. Not everyone wants to spin their motor 10k+ rpms. Not everyone wants to deal with 45psi. Finding that balance point is what it's all about, in my opinion. Cramming more boost into a BS combo is not finding balance, it a bandaid for BS.
For me, at least, there absolutely is a right way and a wrong way to make the power one might want.
At some point, displacement keeps the boost and rpms managable. Not everyone wants to spin their motor 10k+ rpms. Not everyone wants to deal with 45psi. Finding that balance point is what it's all about, in my opinion. Cramming more boost into a BS combo is not finding balance, it a bandaid for BS.
For me, at least, there absolutely is a right way and a wrong way to make the power one might want.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Portland, Oregon
I was out of line with how I chose to word my earlier post...
I don't care how other people do their own $#!+... everyone operates following different philosophies and principles.
I, personally, will not touch boost until I can afford to "do it right", by me... or maybe do "right" by my grandpa. He had a way with words, and those words echo in my head today. There was no cutting corners for that man. He once told me I could mess up a wet dream because I screwed a decking screw too far into a board and torqued off the head of the screw. In a world of compromise, he didn't...
It started with conscious effort to take the extra steps just to avoid ridicule from my dad or grandpa... eventually it became part of my personal integrity. Do it right, do it once. In the Army, they had a saying; slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
I do apologize for sounding so judgemental earlier. I am the broke-@$$ b!tch that cannot afford boost. Me. I could afford to throw an eBay turbo on a junkyard LS, but I wouldn't be able to sleep at night... my grandpa would raise from his grave just to haunt me, no matter how fast the car was.
I don't care how other people do their own $#!+... everyone operates following different philosophies and principles.
I, personally, will not touch boost until I can afford to "do it right", by me... or maybe do "right" by my grandpa. He had a way with words, and those words echo in my head today. There was no cutting corners for that man. He once told me I could mess up a wet dream because I screwed a decking screw too far into a board and torqued off the head of the screw. In a world of compromise, he didn't...
It started with conscious effort to take the extra steps just to avoid ridicule from my dad or grandpa... eventually it became part of my personal integrity. Do it right, do it once. In the Army, they had a saying; slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
I do apologize for sounding so judgemental earlier. I am the broke-@$$ b!tch that cannot afford boost. Me. I could afford to throw an eBay turbo on a junkyard LS, but I wouldn't be able to sleep at night... my grandpa would raise from his grave just to haunt me, no matter how fast the car was.
Last edited by DavidBoren; Dec 14, 2020 at 07:55 PM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 91
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I think we would need to know the OP's intended vehicle purpose, desired redline, and cam choice to pick an intake to match well. If all he cares about is looks, a simple cheap china short runner Sheetmetal intake would be fine. It will help reduce power below 6k where it's not needed anyway IMO.
78mm to 9xmm is more than enough TB wise. The larger you go on the TB, the less control you have over the engine at slight throttle openings. Huge TB's move a TON of air at very little throttle opening. So they can make for a twitchy street car.
"1000 HP street Cars" seem to be the new thing. Entry level turbo guys need to realize there's no such thing as a 1000hp street car. Guys that run those power levels or higher have the power ramped WAY down so get the tire planted until they hit 100mph+ in most cases. I'm around 375 WHP till 50ish mph and slowly ramp in 700ish HP by 90mph to keep a drag radial planted. Even then the tires are fighting to stay planted on typical dirty road surfaces. A better setup car and suspension with larger tires can do much better obviously, but but the point is 1000whp is a $hit ton. And takes serious power management to make even remotely safe on the street. Unless you just want to spin the tires (which can be done with 500whp very easily).
Aside from the expensive and weak long runner FAST manifolds, what intakes out performs the stock truck TBSS/LS6 up to 6500? I haven't seen one... REC port heads and the stock LS3 intake seem to be the way to go on a 6.0 to make power cheap on factory parts. Though the cost of a rec port setup VS a cathedral is pretty high considering I paid $50 for my last set of 706 cath. port heads.
As mentioned, I too prefer to get the most out of my money. Stock parts and lots of boost is the way to do this. Going fast on little boost is simply a matter of $ spent. Yes, an NA 600hp motor can make 1000hp on 10lbs. Let's add up what a 600HP NA motor costs to build compared to a cam only 4.8 doing the same thing at 25-30lbs. The turbo is already there, size it to do the majority of the work. IMO, the whole purpose of having a turbo car is to let the turbo do the work. Why go through all the trouble of adding a power adder to have it do so little work? IMO, A 350hp NA engine making 1000hp in boost is much easier to drive/manage on the street than a 600hp NA engine making 1000HP in boost.
That said... nothing against big boost on big $ motors! Just not friendly street turbo cars and not in my budget personally.
78mm to 9xmm is more than enough TB wise. The larger you go on the TB, the less control you have over the engine at slight throttle openings. Huge TB's move a TON of air at very little throttle opening. So they can make for a twitchy street car.
"1000 HP street Cars" seem to be the new thing. Entry level turbo guys need to realize there's no such thing as a 1000hp street car. Guys that run those power levels or higher have the power ramped WAY down so get the tire planted until they hit 100mph+ in most cases. I'm around 375 WHP till 50ish mph and slowly ramp in 700ish HP by 90mph to keep a drag radial planted. Even then the tires are fighting to stay planted on typical dirty road surfaces. A better setup car and suspension with larger tires can do much better obviously, but but the point is 1000whp is a $hit ton. And takes serious power management to make even remotely safe on the street. Unless you just want to spin the tires (which can be done with 500whp very easily).
Aside from the expensive and weak long runner FAST manifolds, what intakes out performs the stock truck TBSS/LS6 up to 6500? I haven't seen one... REC port heads and the stock LS3 intake seem to be the way to go on a 6.0 to make power cheap on factory parts. Though the cost of a rec port setup VS a cathedral is pretty high considering I paid $50 for my last set of 706 cath. port heads.
As mentioned, I too prefer to get the most out of my money. Stock parts and lots of boost is the way to do this. Going fast on little boost is simply a matter of $ spent. Yes, an NA 600hp motor can make 1000hp on 10lbs. Let's add up what a 600HP NA motor costs to build compared to a cam only 4.8 doing the same thing at 25-30lbs. The turbo is already there, size it to do the majority of the work. IMO, the whole purpose of having a turbo car is to let the turbo do the work. Why go through all the trouble of adding a power adder to have it do so little work? IMO, A 350hp NA engine making 1000hp in boost is much easier to drive/manage on the street than a 600hp NA engine making 1000HP in boost.
That said... nothing against big boost on big $ motors! Just not friendly street turbo cars and not in my budget personally.
forcedfed - id like it to be streetable because this is where most of its use will be. I’m sure I may take it to the track the odd time but majority of it’s driving will be street/nice days.
id like for it to be responsive and not a complete turd outside of boost so maybe a power range of 2500-6800rpm ?
i think the twin 67mm on3 should be ok with the 6L ? Maybe a cam could help with power pre turbo ? I don’t want to spin it past 6800 for living purposes.
I am a poor blue collar dad, always another bill to pay so +1 for cheaper power
i appreciate the replies
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,189
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From: Portland, Oregon
forcedfed - id like it to be streetable because this is where most of its use will be. I’m sure I may take it to the track the odd time but majority of it’s driving will be street/nice days.
id like for it to be responsive and not a complete turd outside of boost so maybe a power range of 2500-6800rpm ?
i think the twin 67mm on3 should be ok with the 6L ? Maybe a cam could help with power pre turbo ? I don’t want to spin it past 6800 for living purposes.
I am a poor blue collar dad, always another bill to pay so +1 for cheaper power
i appreciate the replies
id like for it to be responsive and not a complete turd outside of boost so maybe a power range of 2500-6800rpm ?
i think the twin 67mm on3 should be ok with the 6L ? Maybe a cam could help with power pre turbo ? I don’t want to spin it past 6800 for living purposes.
I am a poor blue collar dad, always another bill to pay so +1 for cheaper power
i appreciate the replies
If it is a GenIV (LY6), it will have the rectangle port heads. If you don't like the looks of the truck intake, then an LS3 intake will probably be best for your goals/driveability/budget.
If you simply want a sheetmetal sryle intake, then remove the intake on whatever engine you buy, look at the shape of the ports, and buy a sheetmetal style intake. The smaller throttle body option will aid in driveability, and won't hurt overall power within your goals.
Remember to step up to the 210 injectors to work with the ECU, as stated earlier by others... that seems more important than whatever intake you choose.
I have always been of the mindset that one should build the smallest, most efficient motor that will achieve 50% of your goals naturally aspirated. Use the least amount of displacement, the smallest heads/cam/intake possible to get you halfway there without boost. Then use the smallest turbo(s) that will get you the rest of the way there.
Then, hopefully, you can achieve your goals with about 10psi.
If the turbo and cam are sized correctly, the turbo should be about tapped out by the time you run out of cam. Even a bigger cam won't extract anything else from the turbo, and a bigger turbo won't get much more without a larger cam... perfection.
Like a system that was planned for a set goal.
Then, hopefully, you can achieve your goals with about 10psi.
If the turbo and cam are sized correctly, the turbo should be about tapped out by the time you run out of cam. Even a bigger cam won't extract anything else from the turbo, and a bigger turbo won't get much more without a larger cam... perfection.
Like a system that was planned for a set goal.
forcedfed - id like it to be streetable because this is where most of its use will be. I’m sure I may take it to the track the odd time but majority of it’s driving will be street/nice days.
id like for it to be responsive and not a complete turd outside of boost so maybe a power range of 2500-6800rpm ?
i think the twin 67mm on3 should be ok with the 6L ? Maybe a cam could help with power pre turbo ? I don’t want to spin it past 6800 for living purposes.
I am a poor blue collar dad, always another bill to pay so +1 for cheaper power
i appreciate the replies
id like for it to be responsive and not a complete turd outside of boost so maybe a power range of 2500-6800rpm ?
i think the twin 67mm on3 should be ok with the 6L ? Maybe a cam could help with power pre turbo ? I don’t want to spin it past 6800 for living purposes.
I am a poor blue collar dad, always another bill to pay so +1 for cheaper power
i appreciate the replies
6800 is factory manifold territory. OEM LS3 intake is a bad mamma jamma if your REC port. If you don't want the factory appearing manifolds, you want the long runners for that kind of RPM. Holley high ram or or edel-brock pro-flow would be the go-to manifolds. BTR equalizer would be a good choice if you don't have the hood clearance. Limiting RPM is actually harder on the motor. Its easier on the motor to rev it out a bit. You don't want the RPM falling down near PK TQ on the shifts... ever. Esp. at 1000+hp.
Are you talking about the On3 ceramic BB 67/65s? U wouldn't pay $690 for those units! Go with genuine Borg S366's over those. Twice the turbo and costs less.
You can get pretty aggressive on twin turbo cams if you size the turbos well. But if you want nice street manors any of the stage 2-3 turbo shelf cams out there will hit your goal with enough boost. Not a lot of difference between them.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Dec 15, 2020 at 07:36 AM.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Portland, Oregon
Honestly, I doubt I have enough time left in my life to responsibly wield anything over 600rwhp...
Bolt-on's are going to have to be good enough until I can afford to actually build me a decent N/A motor. And whatever power that future motor ends up having, is going to have to be good enough... or at least halfway good enough. IF, I ever decide to boost a motor, it will be a motor I built, a motor I know.
I know what's in it, and to which tolerances those parts were installed. I know how much torque it makes, and at which rpms it makes that torque. And that will tell me which method of boost, and how much boost I should need to double it within those same rpms (with a little more, because boost has a way of carrying things to the right).
I still need this to last me 10yrs/100k miles, it's an investment, used daily... I can only really afford to build one motor for the daily. Yes, I want it to be faster than when I got it. No, I am not willing to skip building the engine, and slap a turbo on it, just to be be faster.
It's a process. There are steps. Both in learning what you are dealing with, and gaining experience to properly handle each increase. I am not a racecar driver, I don't know d!ck about handling a 600rwhp car on public roads, with other families and $#!+...
What if I got all d!ckhigh, bought a Stage 9 turbo cam and a 99mm turbo for my 5.3L, all *****-nilly? Say my BS actually holds together following the most basic sloppy mechanics guide online. Throw it together in a weekend over at my buddy's house/garage? I went from not a racecar driver with a 300rwhp truck, to not a racecar driver with a 900rwhp truck is 72 freaking hours... how safe is that? Now I am going down the same roads as ypu and your family...
That's not how I operate. I will gladly take my godd@mn time getting to where I want more...
Bolt-on's are going to have to be good enough until I can afford to actually build me a decent N/A motor. And whatever power that future motor ends up having, is going to have to be good enough... or at least halfway good enough. IF, I ever decide to boost a motor, it will be a motor I built, a motor I know.
I know what's in it, and to which tolerances those parts were installed. I know how much torque it makes, and at which rpms it makes that torque. And that will tell me which method of boost, and how much boost I should need to double it within those same rpms (with a little more, because boost has a way of carrying things to the right).
I still need this to last me 10yrs/100k miles, it's an investment, used daily... I can only really afford to build one motor for the daily. Yes, I want it to be faster than when I got it. No, I am not willing to skip building the engine, and slap a turbo on it, just to be be faster.
It's a process. There are steps. Both in learning what you are dealing with, and gaining experience to properly handle each increase. I am not a racecar driver, I don't know d!ck about handling a 600rwhp car on public roads, with other families and $#!+...
What if I got all d!ckhigh, bought a Stage 9 turbo cam and a 99mm turbo for my 5.3L, all *****-nilly? Say my BS actually holds together following the most basic sloppy mechanics guide online. Throw it together in a weekend over at my buddy's house/garage? I went from not a racecar driver with a 300rwhp truck, to not a racecar driver with a 900rwhp truck is 72 freaking hours... how safe is that? Now I am going down the same roads as ypu and your family...
That's not how I operate. I will gladly take my godd@mn time getting to where I want more...
Honestly, I doubt I have enough time left in my life to responsibly wield anything over 600rwhp...
Bolt-on's are going to have to be good enough until I can afford to actually build me a decent N/A motor. And whatever power that future motor ends up having, is going to have to be good enough... or at least halfway good enough. IF, I ever decide to boost a motor, it will be a motor I built, a motor I know.
I know what's in it, and to which tolerances those parts were installed. I know how much torque it makes, and at which rpms it makes that torque. And that will tell me which method of boost, and how much boost I should need to double it within those same rpms (with a little more, because boost has a way of carrying things to the right).
I still need this to last me 10yrs/100k miles, it's an investment, used daily... I can only really afford to build one motor for the daily. Yes, I want it to be faster than when I got it. No, I am not willing to skip building the engine, and slap a turbo on it, just to be be faster.
It's a process. There are steps. Both in learning what you are dealing with, and gaining experience to properly handle each increase. I am not a racecar driver, I don't know d!ck about handling a 600rwhp car on public roads, with other families and $#!+...
What if I got all d!ckhigh, bought a Stage 9 turbo cam and a 99mm turbo for my 5.3L, all *****-nilly? Say my BS actually holds together following the most basic sloppy mechanics guide online. Throw it together in a weekend over at my buddy's house/garage? I went from not a racecar driver with a 300rwhp truck, to not a racecar driver with a 900rwhp truck is 72 freaking hours... how safe is that? Now I am going down the same roads as ypu and your family...
That's not how I operate. I will gladly take my godd@mn time getting to where I want more...
Bolt-on's are going to have to be good enough until I can afford to actually build me a decent N/A motor. And whatever power that future motor ends up having, is going to have to be good enough... or at least halfway good enough. IF, I ever decide to boost a motor, it will be a motor I built, a motor I know.
I know what's in it, and to which tolerances those parts were installed. I know how much torque it makes, and at which rpms it makes that torque. And that will tell me which method of boost, and how much boost I should need to double it within those same rpms (with a little more, because boost has a way of carrying things to the right).
I still need this to last me 10yrs/100k miles, it's an investment, used daily... I can only really afford to build one motor for the daily. Yes, I want it to be faster than when I got it. No, I am not willing to skip building the engine, and slap a turbo on it, just to be be faster.
It's a process. There are steps. Both in learning what you are dealing with, and gaining experience to properly handle each increase. I am not a racecar driver, I don't know d!ck about handling a 600rwhp car on public roads, with other families and $#!+...
What if I got all d!ckhigh, bought a Stage 9 turbo cam and a 99mm turbo for my 5.3L, all *****-nilly? Say my BS actually holds together following the most basic sloppy mechanics guide online. Throw it together in a weekend over at my buddy's house/garage? I went from not a racecar driver with a 300rwhp truck, to not a racecar driver with a 900rwhp truck is 72 freaking hours... how safe is that? Now I am going down the same roads as ypu and your family...
That's not how I operate. I will gladly take my godd@mn time getting to where I want more...
Seems like we are just being argumentative at this point. Lol
So now we went from... if you can’t afford to use the best parts and make big power at lower boost you are a broke &ss b@tch to if you build a high horse power street car you are irresponsible and putting families at risk. Lol. More people get killed by idiots in stock cars than by enthusiasts.
Seems like we are just being argumentative at this point. Lol
Seems like we are just being argumentative at this point. Lol
Define "optimal". How is more boost less optimal in any way?
Money aside... Compression is less efficient at making power than boost, this is a fact. The higher you'll go compression wise the more peaky your cylinder pressures will be at PK TQ and the more likely you are to hurt something. Higher compression narrows the tuning window. Makes it harder to keep the heads down, and the bottom end together as well. Where as lower compression and more boost will give you a wider tuning window, more average power, and less peaky cyl pressure. If money weren't in the picture, the correct answer is to find a happy median between the two. To arbitrarily limit yourself to 10lbs is shooting yourself in the foot for no reason. Look at the biggest names in turbo drag racing. Guys with 600+ cu inch proline blocks. Do you think money is a factor for them? Do you see them running 18:1 compression and 10lbs? There's a reason for that. What kind of static compression do top fuel cars run? If they could go quicker with more compression... don't you think they would?
Then we have to factor in streetability. If the goals 1200hp... How street friendly is a 12:1 600+hp 408 VS a mild 5.3? I don't see running more boost on a mild motor as any sort of a short cut is my point I guess. As you say... to each their own.
Money aside... Compression is less efficient at making power than boost, this is a fact. The higher you'll go compression wise the more peaky your cylinder pressures will be at PK TQ and the more likely you are to hurt something. Higher compression narrows the tuning window. Makes it harder to keep the heads down, and the bottom end together as well. Where as lower compression and more boost will give you a wider tuning window, more average power, and less peaky cyl pressure. If money weren't in the picture, the correct answer is to find a happy median between the two. To arbitrarily limit yourself to 10lbs is shooting yourself in the foot for no reason. Look at the biggest names in turbo drag racing. Guys with 600+ cu inch proline blocks. Do you think money is a factor for them? Do you see them running 18:1 compression and 10lbs? There's a reason for that. What kind of static compression do top fuel cars run? If they could go quicker with more compression... don't you think they would?
Then we have to factor in streetability. If the goals 1200hp... How street friendly is a 12:1 600+hp 408 VS a mild 5.3? I don't see running more boost on a mild motor as any sort of a short cut is my point I guess. As you say... to each their own.
you should come hang out here in my town. You'd get really agitated. all the 8 and 9 second cars running around are all "stock". Just ask em....thats what they all say. People brag about some dumb *** ****.
I was out of line with how I chose to word my earlier post...
I don't care how other people do their own $#!+... everyone operates following different philosophies and principles.
I, personally, will not touch boost until I can afford to "do it right", by me... or maybe do "right" by my grandpa. He had a way with words, and those words echo in my head today. There was no cutting corners for that man. He once told me I could mess up a wet dream because I screwed a decking screw too far into a board and torqued off the head of the screw. In a world of compromise, he didn't...
It started with conscious effort to take the extra steps just to avoid ridicule from my dad or grandpa... eventually it became part of my personal integrity. Do it right, do it once. In the Army, they had a saying; slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
I do apologize for sounding so judgemental earlier. I am the broke-@$$ b!tch that cannot afford boost. Me. I could afford to throw an eBay turbo on a junkyard LS, but I wouldn't be able to sleep at night... my grandpa would raise from his grave just to haunt me, no matter how fast the car was.
I don't care how other people do their own $#!+... everyone operates following different philosophies and principles.
I, personally, will not touch boost until I can afford to "do it right", by me... or maybe do "right" by my grandpa. He had a way with words, and those words echo in my head today. There was no cutting corners for that man. He once told me I could mess up a wet dream because I screwed a decking screw too far into a board and torqued off the head of the screw. In a world of compromise, he didn't...
It started with conscious effort to take the extra steps just to avoid ridicule from my dad or grandpa... eventually it became part of my personal integrity. Do it right, do it once. In the Army, they had a saying; slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
I do apologize for sounding so judgemental earlier. I am the broke-@$$ b!tch that cannot afford boost. Me. I could afford to throw an eBay turbo on a junkyard LS, but I wouldn't be able to sleep at night... my grandpa would raise from his grave just to haunt me, no matter how fast the car was.
A bad tune or a certain failure will torch an engine now matter how "proper" it is. Better to learn on stock stuff. And time isn't free. Why wait years until you can afford a "proper" setup to enjoy the fun of boost!
Honestly, I doubt I have enough time left in my life to responsibly wield anything over 600rwhp...
Bolt-on's are going to have to be good enough until I can afford to actually build me a decent N/A motor. And whatever power that future motor ends up having, is going to have to be good enough... or at least halfway good enough. IF, I ever decide to boost a motor, it will be a motor I built, a motor I know.
I know what's in it, and to which tolerances those parts were installed. I know how much torque it makes, and at which rpms it makes that torque. And that will tell me which method of boost, and how much boost I should need to double it within those same rpms (with a little more, because boost has a way of carrying things to the right).
I still need this to last me 10yrs/100k miles, it's an investment, used daily... I can only really afford to build one motor for the daily. Yes, I want it to be faster than when I got it. No, I am not willing to skip building the engine, and slap a turbo on it, just to be be faster.
It's a process. There are steps. Both in learning what you are dealing with, and gaining experience to properly handle each increase. I am not a racecar driver, I don't know d!ck about handling a 600rwhp car on public roads, with other families and $#!+...
What if I got all d!ckhigh, bought a Stage 9 turbo cam and a 99mm turbo for my 5.3L, all *****-nilly? Say my BS actually holds together following the most basic sloppy mechanics guide online. Throw it together in a weekend over at my buddy's house/garage? I went from not a racecar driver with a 300rwhp truck, to not a racecar driver with a 900rwhp truck is 72 freaking hours... how safe is that? Now I am going down the same roads as ypu and your family...
That's not how I operate. I will gladly take my godd@mn time getting to where I want more...
Bolt-on's are going to have to be good enough until I can afford to actually build me a decent N/A motor. And whatever power that future motor ends up having, is going to have to be good enough... or at least halfway good enough. IF, I ever decide to boost a motor, it will be a motor I built, a motor I know.
I know what's in it, and to which tolerances those parts were installed. I know how much torque it makes, and at which rpms it makes that torque. And that will tell me which method of boost, and how much boost I should need to double it within those same rpms (with a little more, because boost has a way of carrying things to the right).
I still need this to last me 10yrs/100k miles, it's an investment, used daily... I can only really afford to build one motor for the daily. Yes, I want it to be faster than when I got it. No, I am not willing to skip building the engine, and slap a turbo on it, just to be be faster.
It's a process. There are steps. Both in learning what you are dealing with, and gaining experience to properly handle each increase. I am not a racecar driver, I don't know d!ck about handling a 600rwhp car on public roads, with other families and $#!+...
What if I got all d!ckhigh, bought a Stage 9 turbo cam and a 99mm turbo for my 5.3L, all *****-nilly? Say my BS actually holds together following the most basic sloppy mechanics guide online. Throw it together in a weekend over at my buddy's house/garage? I went from not a racecar driver with a 300rwhp truck, to not a racecar driver with a 900rwhp truck is 72 freaking hours... how safe is that? Now I am going down the same roads as ypu and your family...
That's not how I operate. I will gladly take my godd@mn time getting to where I want more...
Sorry I even replied above. What you just typed about sounds about stupid as hell. Good luck thinking the messed up way you think. lol. smh
I feel you you are just making up excuses because a boosted engine is an unknown for you. Stop being a bitch and just do it.
because some people have a dumb mindset. No sense in trying to fix it.