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L33 vs LQ4

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Old Dec 12, 2020 | 07:03 PM
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Default L33 vs LQ4

alright so basically I cant make up my damn mind on what engine I want to run with my turbo set up. I currently have an L33 with some 243 heads that i had planned on running but its gonna need all new bearings in the block. I also have the option of buying a 6.0 lq4 with gen 4 rods and pistons and running that with 243 heads and not touching the bottom end at all so id save money there just the added 100 lbs or so would suck. Car is a 2002 z28 with a th400, billet 3200 9.5" converter from FTI, has a transbrake, quick performance 9inch with 3.50 gearing, summit stage 2 boost cam, spinning this thing to whatever rpm itll need. Turbo is a Billet 85mm T6 1.32 ar from VS racing. car is raced on the street alot almost every weekend in the summer. I race from digs and do a decent amount of roll racing. car runs on E85 100% of the time and the engine will be controlled with a holley terminator x. shooting for 900-1000 rwhp.. Can anyone give me their input on which block to go with? and yes the car has all the supporting mods and is built for abuse..
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Old Dec 12, 2020 | 07:19 PM
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You can roll with the 6.0 quite well on a 85mm.
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Old Dec 12, 2020 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 007FJ
You can roll with the 6.0 quite well on a 85mm.
yeah would definitely spool it quicker just not sure if its worth it with the added weight
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Old Dec 12, 2020 | 07:50 PM
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Yeah, I agree always the plus and minus game with our decision tree. I'm in the same rabbit hole kind of right now as long as the 4.8 lives for a while I have time to decide.

I'd like an aluminum block myself though I really am already needing track rentals and Test and Tune leniency to let it hang out anyway so there is no logical reason.
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Old Dec 12, 2020 | 09:18 PM
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If it came down to an L33 that needs rebuilt, or an LQ4 that is ready to go.
LQ4
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 09:38 AM
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What is the cost difference? You have the 5.3, what's a set of bearings cost? Is it just bearing damage? What are you paying for the LQ4? Is this something someone slapped together? Reliability of things like that is hit/miss in my experience. Esp. compared to a factory assembled engine. What about option "C". Buy a known good running gen4 SBE of any size that someone hasn't touched!

Bigger motor will pull that gear better, but 3.50 is still ALOT of gear. 28" tire? The issues it the 2-3 shift is going to load the converter a crazy amount. It will likely hang there and try to catchup at a less than desirable RPM. That then puts a TON of stress on the bottom end, ring lands, etc
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
What is the cost difference? You have the 5.3, what's a set of bearings cost? Is it just bearing damage? What are you paying for the LQ4? Is this something someone slapped together? Reliability of things like that is hit/miss in my experience. Esp. compared to a factory assembled engine. What about option "C". Buy a known good running gen4 SBE of any size that someone hasn't touched!

Bigger motor will pull that gear better, but 3.50 is still ALOT of gear. 28" tire? The issues it the 2-3 shift is going to load the converter a crazy amount. It will likely hang there and try to catchup at a less than desirable RPM. That then puts a TON of stress on the bottom end, ring lands, etc
alright so since I posted this a decent amount has happened. Last night my buddy messaged me saying he’s got a good proven LY6 short block for sale. I’d brake even if I sold this 5.3 I got and bought this ly6. The 5.3 needs rod bearings, probably crank bearings, a good cleaning and probably some rings. The Ly6 doesn’t need anything but if I got rid of my 5.3 and bought this ly6 I would have my rings gapped for the boost I wanna make and just run it like that, sbe with gapped rings. I’d run the ly6 with my 243s because there the only heads I got right now and I’d like to run them. Thoughts ? And yes 28” tire, just bearing damage..
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 11:18 AM
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Can't go wrong with a good running Gen4 6.0. Id still consider a gear change to a 3.73 at min. 1000hp @ 3500lbs should get ya around low 150's. I'm just guessing at weight... but 3.50s at 7k w/ a 28" tire will net you closer to 170 than 150. So it's gonna lug to motor down more than necessary. I'm sure it'll still scoot either way. Be easier on the converter and run better with a shorter gear is all.
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Can't go wrong with a good running Gen4 6.0. Id still consider a gear change to a 3.73 at min. 1000hp @ 3500lbs should get ya around low 150's. I'm just guessing at weight... but 3.50s at 7k w/ a 28" tire will net you closer to 170 than 150. So it's gonna lug to motor down more than necessary. I'm sure it'll still scoot either way. Be easier on the converter and run better with a shorter gear is all.
would rather not go to a 3.73 because I drive it on the street a lot. Gonna try the 3.50 this upcoming year and see how it does.
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 12:41 PM
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I'd take the 5.3 anyday at or over 1k
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
I'd take the 5.3 anyday at or over 1k
the way I look at it is, is that the 5.3 is gonna cost more to get going, gonna take a lot longer to spool the 85 than the 6.0 but the 6.0 is heavier. The only gain I really get with the 5.3 is that it’s 100lbs lighter about but slower spool time and will be twice the cost of the ready to go ly6
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 01:44 PM
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Alum 5.3 has a stronger Siamese block, more deck surface, and thicker sleeves. It's likely the strongest stock block platform The 6.0 just makes the power at less boost/RPM. But MANY 6.0's are making 1000hp if that's the goal.

Last edited by Forcefed86; Dec 14, 2020 at 02:10 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 01:53 PM
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The 5.3 is a hands down better platform I can start posting all the pictures of cracked 6L blocks if you wish
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
The 5.3 is a hands down better platform I can start posting all the pictures of cracked 6L blocks if you wish
I’m not claiming the 6.0 has superior block strength at all. I have buddy’s who run both engines 1000rwhp for the past 1-2 years on the street and strip.. I’m just referring to my application itself.. I’d like to save some money here and there.
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 02:10 PM
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Believe the squirrel tuned guy just went 4.80@148 on a stock 6.0 block at 2975 lbs. 7800 rpm as well. (not an SBE). That's about 1500 HP on the HP to Weight scale. A lot of stress on the block anyway!

Last edited by Forcefed86; Dec 14, 2020 at 08:41 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 05:07 PM
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Yeah they all work well until they don't
Not not so much how much power they make it's the time/cycles. That cylinder swells and relaxes every power stroke

Blocks I've been around that broke we're making crazy power they just did moderate power for several years
​​​​​​They are thin as **** between bores

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Old Dec 15, 2020 | 05:06 PM
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Ton of strong running L33/LC9 cars out there, SBE and built.

I'm running a gen 3 SBE LM7 for now, but started building an LC9 for '21, using Fast Times Motorworks in Chicago. 110 lbs off the car is my goal.
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