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Looking for recommendations on turbo exhaust. Ls 6.0 single 76mm turbo street car. Will be doing a lot of street driving. Have a 4in downpipe now was planning on splitting the 4in into dual 3 inch not sure on a good flowing mufflers the are not loud and have little drone. How much power can be made through duel 3 inch exhaust
In my Nova I wanted it quite, so I took the 4" underneath and split it into 2-2 1/2 to mufflers, and tailpipes. I used the Dynomax super turbos, it was pretty quite. It made just under 700 RWHP @ 12 lbs. Prob the Ultra flows would have been a better choice, but louder.
Looking for recommendations on turbo exhaust. Ls 6.0 single 76mm turbo street car. Will be doing a lot of street driving. Have a 4in downpipe now was planning on splitting the 4in into dual 3 inch not sure on a good flowing mufflers the are not loud and have little drone. How much power can be made through duel 3 inch exhaust
More than a single 76mm will make.
And just use any standard perforated tube style muffler. As big as you can, or a couple on each tube if need be.
The more you have, or the longer they are etc...the more noise will be reduced and they will have negligible impact on flow.
Years ago one of the muffler man. had a muffler with an internal flap that opened under pressure, I wonder if anyone ever tried one. I know the Hellcats have some kind of gizmo that you can switch that allows freer flow, no idea how it works.
Most 2010+ GM trucks have a weighted spring loaded flapper pre muffler. I played with one on a dirt track car. Defiantly made a difference in sound, but nothing like a cutout.
I'm a firm believer in factory exhaust and factory mufflers w a cutout. Or if thats not an option crush bent garbage from the cheapest muffler shop with their chambered muffler special out back.
Years ago one of the muffler man. had a muffler with an internal flap that opened under pressure, I wonder if anyone ever tried one. I know the Hellcats have some kind of gizmo that you can switch that allows freer flow, no idea how it works.
Where you place it in the exhaust will also determine its longevity.
I had a QTP electric cutout on my car for years mounted under the driver floor board, never gave me an issue and never leaked.
My buddy also used a QTP electric cutout mounted about two feet off the turbine and it crapped out in about six months.
I have a $30 knockoff 2 ft fr the turbine. Rattles a bit but works just fine.
My buddies would rattle too and started leaking almost right away, then finally failed.
Mine was as tight the day I sold it as the day I installed it, I just attributed that to it being far enough down the exhaust from the heat source.
The rattling would drive me nuts so that's no bueno for me, maybe I just got a good one lol.
My buddies would rattle too and started leaking almost right away, then finally failed.
Mine was as tight the day I sold it as the day I installed it, I just attributed that to it being far enough down the exhaust from the heat source.
The rattling would drive me nuts so that's no bueno for me, maybe I just got a good one lol.
I put some high temp rtv on the mating surface and let it set. Now it's like a gasket and prevents metal on metal contact. Not perfect, but I don't really hear it over the cam anyways lol.
I have had a one of the cheapo vac operated ones off Amazon on my daily driver Yukon for 4 years now. I have it hooked up to an electric vac pump and a solenoid that works off of a RPM window switch so it only opens past 3k RPM. It's right at the Y in the down pipe. The thing opens countless times everyday for 4 years in salted Alaskan shitty weathered roads and still doesn't leak or rattle. I wouldn't even consider an electric one anymore for any reason after using these. The stainless isn't rusting, it still operated smooth by hand last time i checked it. There is nothing to really go bad with them, too simple.
The switches and pump and stuff cost a silly amount for such a trivial thing but the valve itself was only like $40.
The brand of electric valve makes alot of difference IMO as well. Badlanze HPE are some of the best I've used with the best customer service. I had a 4" electric cutout on mine for many years, no rattles, no issues and about a foot from my down pipe.
I use the vac operated valve's as well on another car. Had one get a little sticky after about years use... Hosed it down with WD40 and it seems ok now.
Due to all the conversations I've seen here and there, I've decided my winter project (VS S480 Clone) will have a 3.0" going to the ubiquitous Borla CatBack, but also a QTP 3.5" electric cut out goin straight out to the passenger fender exit. I bought the Monkey fab 4.0" stainless fender exit so it will look a bit better. Plan is to drive to/from car meetings with the cutout closed but when I go to the track , let it flow out both the 3.0 and the 3.5 cutout.
The brand of electric valve makes alot of difference IMO as well. Badlanze HPE are some of the best I've used with the best customer service. I had a 4" electric cutout on mine for many years, no rattles, no issues and about a foot from my down pipe.
I use the vac operated valve's as well on another car. Had one get a little sticky after about years use... Hosed it down with WD40 and it seems ok now.
I think it more or less comes down to the valve needing to be constantly used to stay in good shape. If I had mine on a hand operated switch I would probably see issues like I have with electric ones. Staying closed more than a couple heat cycles is bound to rust them with the heat and condensation. But the electric ones all open and close to slow for automatic operation IMO and they all have some sort of gear on gear mechanism that seems to wear out. It's just hard to mess up a spring, a diaphragm and some air mechanically speaking.
I think it more or less comes down to the valve needing to be constantly used to stay in good shape. If I had mine on a hand operated switch I would probably see issues like I have with electric ones. Staying closed more than a couple heat cycles is bound to rust them with the heat and condensation. But the electric ones all open and close to slow for automatic operation IMO and they all have some sort of gear on gear mechanism that seems to wear out. It's just hard to mess up a spring, a diaphragm and some air mechanically speaking.
I'll be honest, when I installed mine the intent was to only open it when getting rowdy or racing.
After opening it the first time and hearing all the magical turbo noises bellowing from under my car I opened that bitch every time I drove the car lmfao.
Due to all the conversations I've seen here and there, I've decided my winter project (VS S480 Clone) will have a 3.0" going to the ubiquitous Borla CatBack, but also a QTP 3.5" electric cut out goin straight out to the passenger fender exit. I bought the Monkey fab 4.0" stainless fender exit so it will look a bit better. Plan is to drive to/from car meetings with the cutout closed but when I go to the track , let it flow out both the 3.0 and the 3.5 cutout.
**** it, my current car has a 4" bumper exit and its glorious.
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Turbo exhaust 
