Procharger
06-03-2021, 02:28 PM
#1
Procharger Planning on having a procharger installed on my 02 WS6 in the near future. Engine is stock, no headers but a Hooker Blackheart 2 1/2 dual system installed. Planning on installing a Superdamper and new valve springs. Probably PAC1211X's. What other changes should I consider. Not a racer just want a bit more power. Mostly a cruiser.
06-03-2021, 03:29 PM
#2
Headers, Injectors, Fuel pump
Sticky rear tires
Sticky rear tires
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lt1553 (06-09-2021)
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War Prayer (06-26-2021)
06-25-2021, 10:59 AM
#5
The damper is a good call along with pinning it to the crank.
You'll need injectors and fuel pump, single 255 or 340 would enough, valve springs and pushrods.
I'd have Pat G tune it, he does excellent work.
If you don't need ultimate power then leave the stock manifolds, you can always replace later.
A converter would be good with a cam change.
If the diff is stock then DO NOT put sticky tires on it, especially if its a manual.
If running the A4 the diff won't be as fragile, be gentle with it until you can have it built for more power.
You'll need injectors and fuel pump, single 255 or 340 would enough, valve springs and pushrods.
I'd have Pat G tune it, he does excellent work.
If you don't need ultimate power then leave the stock manifolds, you can always replace later.
A converter would be good with a cam change.
If the diff is stock then DO NOT put sticky tires on it, especially if its a manual.
If running the A4 the diff won't be as fragile, be gentle with it until you can have it built for more power.
06-25-2021, 01:12 PM
#6
The damper is a good call along with pinning it to the crank.
You'll need injectors and fuel pump, single 255 or 340 would enough, valve springs and pushrods.
I'd have Pat G tune it, he does excellent work.
If you don't need ultimate power then leave the stock manifolds, you can always replace later.
A converter would be good with a cam change.
If the diff is stock then DO NOT put sticky tires on it, especially if its a manual.
If running the A4 the diff won't be as fragile, be gentle with it until you can have it built for more power.
You'll need injectors and fuel pump, single 255 or 340 would enough, valve springs and pushrods.
I'd have Pat G tune it, he does excellent work.
If you don't need ultimate power then leave the stock manifolds, you can always replace later.
A converter would be good with a cam change.
If the diff is stock then DO NOT put sticky tires on it, especially if its a manual.
If running the A4 the diff won't be as fragile, be gentle with it until you can have it built for more power.
Call Bob at Brute Speed for the best prices on the D1 and for the correct size additional fan. MightyMouse make a radiator shroud for a 11 inch and 16 inch fan. It seals much better IMO than the ATI shroud cut for only one 16 inch fan.
From the Get-Go I would replace the small air filter included with the D1 kit and replace with a much larger air filter (see Bob for the correct size or ask which filter is included with the current kit).
IMO with a larger fuel pump you will need the Racetronix wire harness or pump and harness kit. It can handle up to 500 rwhp.
There are some on this forum who will disagree, but with boost you need a external fuel pressure regulator that will adjust fuel pressure and volume dependent upon boost. As you build boost the FPR adjusts pressure and volume to handle the increased fuel required as the engine make more HP.
The stock fuel pressure regulator and external option C5 filter keeps pressure at a constant 58 psi. Pressure and volume is static at 58 psi. So if you make 8lbs of boost or more your FPR will need to adjust fuel pressure and volume to add 8 to ten lbs of psi from 58 psi up to 68 psi (the more pressure the less volume which is a scientific principle). The stock regulator does NOT increase pressure or volume. It remains static at 58 psi.
Some tuners say they just tune around it and let you keep the stock regulator. IMO replace the stock regulator with an FPR and do it the right way.
If you are buying used parts, I would make sure to get the 4 1/2 inch dual intercoolers. In hot climates the 3 inch intercoolers don't get IAT's low enough. Better yet opt for the ATI front mounted intercooler kit.
Good luck with your project.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...re-regulators/
https://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content...c_Boost_01.pdf
http://injectordynamics.com/articles...ure-explained/
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 06-25-2021 at 01:18 PM. Reason: edit content
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The BallSS (06-25-2021)
06-25-2021, 02:07 PM
#7
Dependent upon what region you live in and what average temps are in the summer, the consensus is likely that you will need to add a second fan to the radiator shroud. The single 16 inch Procharger fan most times won't pull enough CFM to keep the car cool especially when running the AC when temps reach 95 and higher. It's was 102 last week for several days here in Kansas.
Call Bob at Brute Speed for the best prices on the D1 and for the correct size additional fan. MightyMouse make a radiator shroud for a 11 inch and 16 inch fan. It seals much better IMO than the ATI shroud cut for only one 16 inch fan.
From the Get-Go I would replace the small air filter included with the D1 kit and replace with a much larger air filter (see Bob for the correct size or ask which filter is included with the current kit).
IMO with a larger fuel pump you will need the Racetronix wire harness or pump and harness kit. It can handle up to 500 rwhp.
There are some on this forum who will disagree, but with boost you need a external fuel pressure regulator that will adjust fuel pressure and volume dependent upon boost. As you build boost the FPR adjusts pressure and volume to handle the increased fuel required as the engine make more HP.
The stock fuel pressure regulator and external option C5 filter keeps pressure at a constant 58 psi. Pressure and volume is static at 58 psi. So if you make 8lbs of boost or more your FPR will need to adjust fuel pressure and volume to add 8 to ten lbs of psi from 58 psi up to 68 psi (the more pressure the less volume which is a scientific principle). The stock regulator does NOT increase pressure or volume. It remains static at 58 psi.
Some tuners say they just tune around it and let you keep the stock regulator. IMO replace the stock regulator with an FPR and do it the right way.
If you are buying used parts, I would make sure to get the 4 1/2 inch dual intercoolers. In hot climates the 3 inch intercoolers don't get IAT's low enough. Better yet opt for the ATI front mounted intercooler kit.
Good luck with your project.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...re-regulators/
https://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content...c_Boost_01.pdf
http://injectordynamics.com/articles...ure-explained/
Call Bob at Brute Speed for the best prices on the D1 and for the correct size additional fan. MightyMouse make a radiator shroud for a 11 inch and 16 inch fan. It seals much better IMO than the ATI shroud cut for only one 16 inch fan.
From the Get-Go I would replace the small air filter included with the D1 kit and replace with a much larger air filter (see Bob for the correct size or ask which filter is included with the current kit).
IMO with a larger fuel pump you will need the Racetronix wire harness or pump and harness kit. It can handle up to 500 rwhp.
There are some on this forum who will disagree, but with boost you need a external fuel pressure regulator that will adjust fuel pressure and volume dependent upon boost. As you build boost the FPR adjusts pressure and volume to handle the increased fuel required as the engine make more HP.
The stock fuel pressure regulator and external option C5 filter keeps pressure at a constant 58 psi. Pressure and volume is static at 58 psi. So if you make 8lbs of boost or more your FPR will need to adjust fuel pressure and volume to add 8 to ten lbs of psi from 58 psi up to 68 psi (the more pressure the less volume which is a scientific principle). The stock regulator does NOT increase pressure or volume. It remains static at 58 psi.
Some tuners say they just tune around it and let you keep the stock regulator. IMO replace the stock regulator with an FPR and do it the right way.
If you are buying used parts, I would make sure to get the 4 1/2 inch dual intercoolers. In hot climates the 3 inch intercoolers don't get IAT's low enough. Better yet opt for the ATI front mounted intercooler kit.
Good luck with your project.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...re-regulators/
https://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content...c_Boost_01.pdf
http://injectordynamics.com/articles...ure-explained/
The Racetronix Hot Wire kit is great.
I made 700whp on the factory system with just a pair of twin 255's for years but I may have been the exception and not the rule, I would agree to do it right the first time, fuel is not something you want to run out of in a FI car.
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06-25-2021, 02:48 PM
#8
Dependent upon what region you live in and what average temps are in the summer, the consensus is likely that you will need to add a second fan to the radiator shroud. The single 16 inch Procharger fan most times won't pull enough CFM to keep the car cool especially when running the AC when temps reach 95 and higher. It's was 102 last week for several days here in Kansas.
Call Bob at Brute Speed for the best prices on the D1 and for the correct size additional fan. MightyMouse make a radiator shroud for a 11 inch and 16 inch fan. It seals much better IMO than the ATI shroud cut for only one 16 inch fan.
From the Get-Go I would replace the small air filter included with the D1 kit and replace with a much larger air filter (see Bob for the correct size or ask which filter is included with the current kit).
IMO with a larger fuel pump you will need the Racetronix wire harness or pump and harness kit. It can handle up to 500 rwhp.
There are some on this forum who will disagree, but with boost you need a external fuel pressure regulator that will adjust fuel pressure and volume dependent upon boost. As you build boost the FPR adjusts pressure and volume to handle the increased fuel required as the engine make more HP.
The stock fuel pressure regulator and external option C5 filter keeps pressure at a constant 58 psi. Pressure and volume is static at 58 psi. So if you make 8lbs of boost or more your FPR will need to adjust fuel pressure and volume to add 8 to ten lbs of psi from 58 psi up to 68 psi (the more pressure the less volume which is a scientific principle). The stock regulator does NOT increase pressure or volume. It remains static at 58 psi.
Some tuners say they just tune around it and let you keep the stock regulator. IMO replace the stock regulator with an FPR and do it the right way.
If you are buying used parts, I would make sure to get the 4 1/2 inch dual intercoolers. In hot climates the 3 inch intercoolers don't get IAT's low enough. Better yet opt for the ATI front mounted intercooler kit.
Good luck with your project.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...re-regulators/
https://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content...c_Boost_01.pdf
http://injectordynamics.com/articles...ure-explained/
Call Bob at Brute Speed for the best prices on the D1 and for the correct size additional fan. MightyMouse make a radiator shroud for a 11 inch and 16 inch fan. It seals much better IMO than the ATI shroud cut for only one 16 inch fan.
From the Get-Go I would replace the small air filter included with the D1 kit and replace with a much larger air filter (see Bob for the correct size or ask which filter is included with the current kit).
IMO with a larger fuel pump you will need the Racetronix wire harness or pump and harness kit. It can handle up to 500 rwhp.
There are some on this forum who will disagree, but with boost you need a external fuel pressure regulator that will adjust fuel pressure and volume dependent upon boost. As you build boost the FPR adjusts pressure and volume to handle the increased fuel required as the engine make more HP.
The stock fuel pressure regulator and external option C5 filter keeps pressure at a constant 58 psi. Pressure and volume is static at 58 psi. So if you make 8lbs of boost or more your FPR will need to adjust fuel pressure and volume to add 8 to ten lbs of psi from 58 psi up to 68 psi (the more pressure the less volume which is a scientific principle). The stock regulator does NOT increase pressure or volume. It remains static at 58 psi.
Some tuners say they just tune around it and let you keep the stock regulator. IMO replace the stock regulator with an FPR and do it the right way.
If you are buying used parts, I would make sure to get the 4 1/2 inch dual intercoolers. In hot climates the 3 inch intercoolers don't get IAT's low enough. Better yet opt for the ATI front mounted intercooler kit.
Good luck with your project.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...re-regulators/
https://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content...c_Boost_01.pdf
http://injectordynamics.com/articles...ure-explained/
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
