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Best way to kill power at launch

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Old Jul 27, 2021 | 01:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 3 window
Bra careful pulling power and ramping it back in, it can be a fine line. If the car gets out too far, the chassis can “settle” so to speak and we lose the ability to really plant the tire. Seems backwards, but sometimes we need to get the car moving faster quicker to keep it on the tire.
thanks for this. It actually does make sense. Wouldn’t have thought about that.
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Old Jul 27, 2021 | 01:13 PM
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Good god I hate the I wanna keep a secret no time grudge car only comes off the trailer for $5k BS. Seems every event with that nonsense does more talking than racing.
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Old Jul 27, 2021 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Z32_5.3
thanks for this. It actually does make sense. Wouldn’t have thought about that.
Its an even bigger deal radial vs slicks.
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Old Jul 27, 2021 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
Good grief -20* is it on an all season May as well hang beater bombs weight bar off the back too!

I agree with other posts since its on Holley its super easy to setup boost control and timing retard tables to meet whatever need he may have.
“Beater Bombs weight bar” LOL. That thing should have a red flag hangin off it. Car’s fast and all, but that’s a joke.
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Old Jul 27, 2021 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
Good god I hate the I wanna keep a secret no time grudge car only comes off the trailer for $5k BS. Seems every event with that nonsense does more talking than racing.
i hear you. I have my personal car all over with videos etc but this isn’t mine you know. Not my place.
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Old Jul 28, 2021 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Z32_5.3
I can’t give out a ton of information cause it’s a no-time car. I don’t wanna be the one responsible for it ever coming back. Your asking all the right question to give me best answer but I can’t be crazy specific lol.

cars a small tire car right now with full suspension. The car itself has everything needed to make it hook. I’m just helping out with the computer part of things. Surprising to me how many people don’t want to learn how PC side of things work. Not too bad when start seeing your changes take effect. Obviously I’m still learning myself but the changes I’ve made so far has help the car a lot.
Lots of variables here, but it sounds like you guys rushing to figure it out. No idea how many runs you have on the car, so assuming a few and the car spun it's *** off, drop the 2 step RPM to a boost level that you can stick, let's call it 5 lbs on the leave. Sure some folks might retard timing some but I've rarely seen folks take out a ton. Taking a ton of timing out in one instance was indicating that the car had an issue, which was in that case too much gear. Could then try stretching out the boost curve to 2.5 seconds and see if the car works.

If the car is on a slick you'd want some wheel speed. If you are on a DR, you want the opposite and may want to look into what the typical suspension approach for that car. For example on a 4th gen, on a DR, folks would typically have the rear shocks separate after the leave, extend 2.5 inches or more. But chassis stuff all depends on the track and the tire and other stuff.
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