The best engine for Boost 🙂
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2021
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The best engine for Boost 🙂 Hello everyone, I have saved up some money, and I would like to make my dream come true, which is to assemble a v8 engine that has a power between 1000-1200 horsepower.
It will be used on a daily basis, so I try to make sure it is reliable (as much as a tuned engine can be).
I am not a heavy footed person, so I will not be mistreated.
Since I'm fast of V8 but I don't know which engine to choose, what do you recommend?
Around the web I have heard both the LC9 and the Godzilla V8 from Ford described well, both are described as very resistant and reliable even at 1200 wheel horsepower.
What do you guys think?
Thanks a lot in advance everyone for your advice.
It will be used on a daily basis, so I try to make sure it is reliable (as much as a tuned engine can be).
I am not a heavy footed person, so I will not be mistreated.
Since I'm fast of V8 but I don't know which engine to choose, what do you recommend?
Around the web I have heard both the LC9 and the Godzilla V8 from Ford described well, both are described as very resistant and reliable even at 1200 wheel horsepower.
What do you guys think?
Thanks a lot in advance everyone for your advice.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 44
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I was thinking of a pontiac firebird 82-88, but I have not yet decided on which car to mount it, the car is not important, the important thing is that the engine compartment has room for the new engine, the engine mounts are created without problems.
Further complicating things, since you are going FI , plumbing for power adder needs to be accounted for. And also this will be street driven, so even more limitations.
pick the platform first, then focus on the engine. A ls with a turbo will get you what you want in my opinion.
pick the platform first, then focus on the engine. A ls with a turbo will get you what you want in my opinion.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Further complicating things, since you are going FI , plumbing for power adder needs to be accounted for. And also this will be street driven, so even more limitations.
pick the platform first, then focus on the engine. A ls with a turbo will get you what you want in my opinion.
pick the platform first, then focus on the engine. A ls with a turbo will get you what you want in my opinion.
thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. I excluded the LS engine because everyone I spoke to told me that an LS engine with forged pistons and connecting rods sustains a maximum of 800 horsepower while remaining reliable on the road, at 1000 horsepower it is no longer reliable and requires the replacement of the block. motor with a more resistant one, such as the dart or the lsx
(Reference your first post)
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Thread Starter
Teching In
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I thought the LS engines were the LS2, LS3, LS7 etc, the LC9 I thought belonged to another series of engines, sorry if I wrote nonsense, thank you so much for your post.
Could you please tell me if a Ford Godzilla V8 engine fits into the engine compartment of a '88 Pontiac Firebird? Thanks again
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Verdad Gallardo no, unfortunately I am new to V8s, until now I have only bought and tuned JDM and European cars , I have no experience with American V8 engines, I am learning for a short time, for this reason I sometimes ask questions that for many are obvious or stupid.
I thought the LS engines were the LS2, LS3, LS7 etc, the LC9 I thought belonged to another series of engines, sorry if I wrote nonsense, thank you so much for your post.
Could you please tell me if a Ford Godzilla V8 engine fits into the engine compartment of a '88 Pontiac Firebird? Thanks again
I thought the LS engines were the LS2, LS3, LS7 etc, the LC9 I thought belonged to another series of engines, sorry if I wrote nonsense, thank you so much for your post.
Could you please tell me if a Ford Godzilla V8 engine fits into the engine compartment of a '88 Pontiac Firebird? Thanks again
no first hand experience.
have you looked at a inline six with a turbo vs a V8? Toyota 2jz engines like in the Supra were known for going over 1000 hp on the stock bottom end. May be easier to source in Europe. Also the BMW inline 6s with a turbo should work well.
Think about your budget. 1000 HP is not cheap in a race car. And it is much more expensive in a street car. You will need good fuel. And a lot of it.
https://www.mastmotorsports.com/pages/tech
First thing you need to do is go to www.thirdgen.org and get more familiar with the vehicle. It's not the car I would start with (and I have one).
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@ AgFormula02, thank you, 2jz engines are not very common here, instead bmw inline six engines are practically everywhere, I had the whim to mount an American V8 because I love the sound of the engine
@QwkTrip, thank you very much for the links, in fact it is too high, welding new engine mounts is one thing, but physically lowering the height of the engine on the frame is too out of my capacity, too bad because I would have liked that engine
Thanks to all guys, for the advice
@gametech, I'm not a troll, I'm just trying to get some more info on engines I've never had
@QwkTrip, thank you very much for the links, in fact it is too high, welding new engine mounts is one thing, but physically lowering the height of the engine on the frame is too out of my capacity, too bad because I would have liked that engine
Thanks to all guys, for the advice
@gametech, I'm not a troll, I'm just trying to get some more info on engines I've never had
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thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. I excluded the LS engine because everyone I spoke to told me that an LS engine with forged pistons and connecting rods sustains a maximum of 800 horsepower while remaining reliable on the road, at 1000 horsepower it is no longer reliable and requires the replacement of the block. motor with a more resistant one, such as the dart or the lsx
You were lied to.
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I make 830/900tq on my gen3 5.3 engine which is the weakest of them in terms of stock option I think.
I look at it this way in terms of street car vs race car.
Street car:
my car makes ton power and is a street car because it has no cage, pump gas(93 with M1 spray), factory gauges work, full interior. Any point I can start it and drive to store or work or meet with my kids. This car is still only 3500lbs so I do NOT need to boost driving around town or merging into traffic. I only boost when I’m ready to do full pull. Otherwise it’s basically driving around everywhere not boosting.
racecar:
I have another one with ls swap in same chassis but has nothing under dash, full cage, bucket seats, 15” wheel, fender exits, fuel cell. This car will start and and be romped on 24/7 and have E85 fuel.
both will have 900ish Hp but one is auto and light, other is t56 and all car accessories. As for Hp, now that I’ve seen how easy it is to make power on these engines, I wouldn’t at all stress making power.
I look at it this way in terms of street car vs race car.
Street car:
my car makes ton power and is a street car because it has no cage, pump gas(93 with M1 spray), factory gauges work, full interior. Any point I can start it and drive to store or work or meet with my kids. This car is still only 3500lbs so I do NOT need to boost driving around town or merging into traffic. I only boost when I’m ready to do full pull. Otherwise it’s basically driving around everywhere not boosting.
racecar:
I have another one with ls swap in same chassis but has nothing under dash, full cage, bucket seats, 15” wheel, fender exits, fuel cell. This car will start and and be romped on 24/7 and have E85 fuel.
both will have 900ish Hp but one is auto and light, other is t56 and all car accessories. As for Hp, now that I’ve seen how easy it is to make power on these engines, I wouldn’t at all stress making power.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2021
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I make 830/900tq on my gen3 5.3 engine which is the weakest of them in terms of stock option I think.
I look at it this way in terms of street car vs race car.
Street car:
my car makes ton power and is a street car because it has no cage, pump gas(93 with M1 spray), factory gauges work, full interior. Any point I can start it and drive to store or work or meet with my kids. This car is still only 3500lbs so I do NOT need to boost driving around town or merging into traffic. I only boost when I’m ready to do full pull. Otherwise it’s basically driving around everywhere not boosting.
racecar:
I have another one with ls swap in same chassis but has nothing under dash, full cage, bucket seats, 15” wheel, fender exits, fuel cell. This car will start and and be romped on 24/7 and have E85 fuel.
both will have 900ish Hp but one is auto and light, other is t56 and all car accessories. As for Hp, now that I’ve seen how easy it is to make power on these engines, I wouldn’t at all stress making power.
I look at it this way in terms of street car vs race car.
Street car:
my car makes ton power and is a street car because it has no cage, pump gas(93 with M1 spray), factory gauges work, full interior. Any point I can start it and drive to store or work or meet with my kids. This car is still only 3500lbs so I do NOT need to boost driving around town or merging into traffic. I only boost when I’m ready to do full pull. Otherwise it’s basically driving around everywhere not boosting.
racecar:
I have another one with ls swap in same chassis but has nothing under dash, full cage, bucket seats, 15” wheel, fender exits, fuel cell. This car will start and and be romped on 24/7 and have E85 fuel.
both will have 900ish Hp but one is auto and light, other is t56 and all car accessories. As for Hp, now that I’ve seen how easy it is to make power on these engines, I wouldn’t at all stress making power.
Please, could you tell me what parts you assembled? I am especially interested in knowing the internal parts of the engine (pistons, connecting rods, shaft, cylinder heads, camshafts, etc.) and the fuel injection system.
Some on the LS2-3 and LS7 engines use a Methanol injection system to cool the engine, do you in your experience consider it necessary or is it just a plus?
Thanks again guys, really the advice from your experiences, is very useful to me, unfortunately I don't have a budget that allows me to buy 24000 dollars long block Dart or LSX or other expensive pieces, but on other forums this some people don't understand.
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Thank you very much, your post is very useful for me, because it represents your direct experience that you live every day, and that's what I had in mind, I would like to keep a low turbo pressure for daily use, about 500 horses, and then increase it when I want to compete at over 1000.
Please, could you tell me what parts you assembled? I am especially interested in knowing the internal parts of the engine (pistons, connecting rods, shaft, cylinder heads, camshafts, etc.) and the fuel injection system.
Some on the LS2-3 and LS7 engines use a Methanol injection system to cool the engine, do you in your experience consider it necessary or is it just a plus?
Thanks again guys, really the advice from your experiences, is very useful to me, unfortunately I don't have a budget that allows me to buy 24000 dollars long block Dart or LSX or other expensive pieces, but on other forums this some people don't understand.
Please, could you tell me what parts you assembled? I am especially interested in knowing the internal parts of the engine (pistons, connecting rods, shaft, cylinder heads, camshafts, etc.) and the fuel injection system.
Some on the LS2-3 and LS7 engines use a Methanol injection system to cool the engine, do you in your experience consider it necessary or is it just a plus?
Thanks again guys, really the advice from your experiences, is very useful to me, unfortunately I don't have a budget that allows me to buy 24000 dollars long block Dart or LSX or other expensive pieces, but on other forums this some people don't understand.
arp head studs and rods bolts(maybe not needed?) btr stage 2 turbo cam kit. Ls9 gaskets. Better oil pump. T56 trans with twin disk. Gen3 rods and pistons.
so here is how my last tuner put it, everyone makes power on stock motors until they pop at 140mph and oil down their tires. That comment has always scared me to be honest. That’s essentially where I am at, Over powering stock rods. However been about a year now and I beat crap out of my car and it’s been taking it… until it doesn’t and I’ll find out when it’s too late.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2021
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I have a basic gen3 setup IMO. A gen4 stock motor with cam kit and headstuds would be better than my motor. The key to my motor right now is the M1 I spray. I would never do 50/50 after using M1. Works awesome for me. I fill up my 2 gallon tank every 3-4 weeks maybe.
arp head studs and rods bolts(maybe not needed?) btr stage 2 turbo cam kit. Ls9 gaskets. Better oil pump. T56 trans with twin disk. Gen3 rods and pistons.
so here is how my last tuner put it, everyone makes power on stock motors until they pop at 140mph and oil down their tires. That comment has always scared me to be honest. That’s essentially where I am at, Over powering stock rods. However been about a year now and I beat crap out of my car and it’s been taking it… until it doesn’t and I’ll find out when it’s too late.
arp head studs and rods bolts(maybe not needed?) btr stage 2 turbo cam kit. Ls9 gaskets. Better oil pump. T56 trans with twin disk. Gen3 rods and pistons.
so here is how my last tuner put it, everyone makes power on stock motors until they pop at 140mph and oil down their tires. That comment has always scared me to be honest. That’s essentially where I am at, Over powering stock rods. However been about a year now and I beat crap out of my car and it’s been taking it… until it doesn’t and I’ll find out when it’s too late.
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From: chicago
I have a basic gen3 setup IMO. A gen4 stock motor with cam kit and headstuds would be better than my motor. The key to my motor right now is the M1 I spray. I would never do 50/50 after using M1. Works awesome for me. I fill up my 2 gallon tank every 3-4 weeks maybe.
arp head studs and rods bolts(maybe not needed?) btr stage 2 turbo cam kit. Ls9 gaskets. Better oil pump. T56 trans with twin disk. Gen3 rods and pistons.
so here is how my last tuner put it, everyone makes power on stock motors until they pop at 140mph and oil down their tires. That comment has always scared me to be honest. That’s essentially where I am at, Over powering stock rods. However been about a year now and I beat crap out of my car and it’s been taking it… until it doesn’t and I’ll find out when it’s too late.
arp head studs and rods bolts(maybe not needed?) btr stage 2 turbo cam kit. Ls9 gaskets. Better oil pump. T56 trans with twin disk. Gen3 rods and pistons.
so here is how my last tuner put it, everyone makes power on stock motors until they pop at 140mph and oil down their tires. That comment has always scared me to be honest. That’s essentially where I am at, Over powering stock rods. However been about a year now and I beat crap out of my car and it’s been taking it… until it doesn’t and I’ll find out when it’s too late.
Hey Z32_5.3 it sounds like you had the car tuner, but if you know how much your spraying, and how it's setup I would appreciate hearing about your setup. Do you have any idea how much boost you consistently run, or how the timing is setup?
A diaper is money well spent on a car at the level. If it lets go, it could literally save you, cheapest investment you can make in safety.
A diaper is money well spent on a car at the level. If it lets go, it could literally save you, cheapest investment you can make in safety.
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Joined: Jul 2019
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Hey Z32_5.3 it sounds like you had the car tuner, but if you know how much your spraying, and how it's setup I would appreciate hearing about your setup. Do you have any idea how much boost you consistently run, or how the timing is setup?
A diaper is money well spent on a car at the level. If it lets go, it could literally save you, cheapest investment you can make in safety.
A diaper is money well spent on a car at the level. If it lets go, it could literally save you, cheapest investment you can make in safety.
my timing is in pictures. I added .5 degree from 5500-6500rpm after this picture was taken to keep some power up top.
boost was around 22psi and 25psi in 4th gear. 4th gear is where I do my dyno pulls so my 900tq and 830hp was at the 24-25psi level. Some of that boost is creep up top. So 21-ish up to tq peak and after tq curve I prob do the rest to 25ish. Not sure why but my car struggles to hold power after the curve. Without that extra timing and extra boost it dropped off pretty good.
dyno chart was from earlier so prob around 22psi. The 25ish got me to the 900tq
Last edited by Z32_5.3; Sep 7, 2021 at 03:28 PM.