Some thoughts / options
- heater hoses can be altered , pull the nipples out and tap the holes NPT , add elbows . I had to do this
- same for rad hoses , cut up hose pieces or silicone couplers and hard tubing can route a hose almost anywhere
- as long as the center section is oriented properly the housings can go any way that suits, probably not good to have the compressor outlet pointed up when trying to fit it as I don't think that's going to work
- I haven't looked but must be some pics out there of someone using that turbo on an A body ?
- would a log manifold that puts the turbine flange right near #2 exhaust port work ?
Sure you've thought of this , just trying to help

 

How about stuff the turbo into the corner like mine?

 

I am not giving up. Using another manifold is not really an option. I really like how this one is laid out.

My compressor clocking is limited because the outlet from the compressor has to ultimately go back towards the center of the engine. This is because I am using a Holley low ram intake with a Tick intercooler and a side entry lid. The side entry lid was necessary because a forward facing lid won't fit under the hood.

My water pump fittings are already NPT. I ordered some Earl's 90 degree swivel fittings for the heater hoses. I also ordered a 30 degree swivel thermostat housing and a straight thermostat housing.

I also searched around and found pictures of a rather large turbo installed in a 3rd gen Camaro using these manifolds. Next time out, I will try positioning the turbo in a similar location. The 3rd gen Camaro actually has more distance to the radiator, but only a little bit. Something like this...

















Andrew

 

Promising for sure. Cap'n Obvious but leave some room for a turbo blanket and a bit of an air gap.

 

That presents other issues, like trying to support a heavy turbo by a single long up-pipe. The further away from the engine, the more support the turbo will need.

Andrew

 

How much room on the other side, you would have to cross over with the down pipe though, pesky steering shaft gets in the way. Would moving the top hose nipple to the D/S get you any more room. I changed mine to a 90 deg., but still can't get a filter on. Prob go thru K & N's site looking for something short for street use.
Guessing you are going to keep the inner fender well. I have run the cold side thru the fender well and down and under to where ever it had to go, just to eliminate one issue.
Not sure how going to something like a 78/75 would free up room, but you have a nice unit now, you will figure it out.

 

Mounting the turbo on the DS has the same problem of having a really long up-pipe, with not much support, plus the steering box, plus now the downpipe becomes a problem.

If I chose to do a different turbo, it would be a Garrett G42-1200 compact. Looking at the dimensions, it has substantially smaller external dimensions than the current turbo:

https://www.garrettmotion.com/wp-con...0-G42-1450.pdf

Andrew

 

After taking a break and stepping away from it, we came up with this placement. The wood is there to simulate worst case scenario hood clearance.


















The center of the turbo is even with the Maven turbo mount. This will allow us to make a simple bracket from the head to help support the turbo.



This turbo placement allows for plenty of room for all the necessary bits to clear and also gives a clear path for the turbo drain.

The inner fender will have to be modified, but that is a problem for future me...

Andrew

 

I like how this project is going.

Best of success to you!

 

Thanks Pete. Appreciate the kind words!

Andrew

 

Looks great Andrew, and great detailed pics.

Notching the inner fender ain't no big thing for a turbo setup, pretty common.

 

As always, nice work!

It would be easier to fit if you didn't have wastegates or bypass pipes. Hint Hint. Andrew, come to the dark side, no wastegates.

 

Bigger turbo looks better. You will never get tired of hearing "Oh ****", when someone walks by your car and peeks into the engine bay. Worth the extra effort.

 

Begone evil spirit!!

Dual WGs over here.

 

How is that even possible?

Andrew

 

Boost electronically controlled by DBW throttle. Requires lots of electronics unless some aftermarket ECM vendors get wise and add that functionality.

Basically your foot is planted to the floor, computer says "No no , you're about to get too much boost", it then closes the throttle to get your target boost. You must have missed that in my build thread.

 

Yes, totally missed it. I will have DBW with the Dominator ECU, but I have a 45mm TurboSmart wastegate that we already have placement for in a pretty good location off the pipe that goes between the manifold and the turbine inlet.

Andrew

 

In your case, I wouldn't do it until Holley supports it, Give them a suggestion maybe. It would be a no cost software only feature. I've got thousands of car show miles and numerous track outings, running 10 seconds without wastegate, bypass pipes or boost solenoid.

 

I can suggest it, but it would be number 389 on their to-do list.

Andrew

 

While waiting for a few small parts to arrive we decided to mock up a few intake arrangement options. My original idea was to have a side entry lid facing the passenger side. This arrangement will make it a challenge to snake the charge pipe from the compressor outlet to the throttle body, but I think it can be done.



This is an alternative side entry. Obviously the charge pipe will be longer, but the path should be easier to lay out.



This is the front entry options. Again snaking the charge pipe will be a challenge, plus, I am pretty sure the peak of the lid will hit the hood.



Front view of the front entry option.



You'll have to use your imagination and add another 3" to the front of the intakes for the throttle body.

Andrew