Sweet. So you goal is to make 700-800 and have it drive nice, no turbo lag, no loose converter. I think it's gonna be a killer.

 

It'll make what it'll make. Reed swears that it will surpass 900HP at the crank. But yes, all of the above.

Andrew

 

I'll be very interested to see what you make on pump gas, still planning some sort of a/w setup?

 

After all the discussions, I am going to use the Tick intercooler brick with a Holley Low Ram intake base, and one of the side entrance tops. The plan is to use modify the current BeCool radiator to attach a Frozenboost heat exchanger and a VA AC condenser in front of that, with the Chevy Volt fans on the back of the radiator. Also going to use a Pierberg CWA50 pump for the intercooler.

Andrew

 

Last weekend I was in Alabama, helping my friend Tom do some wiring on his LT1 swapped 2004 BMW M3, and while I was gone, my turbo arrived. I got home yesterday and it is absolutely a piece of amazing technology. Here are some detailed pictures:


















Andrew

 

Damn dude, that looks extremely nice!

 

Always nice to see another A body. Keep up the great work.

 

Eventually all of this crap will make it on the car...LOL

In addition to purchasing the turbo from Work, I also ordered the necessary other bits. I chose the Turbosmart 45mm wastewater and their Raceport BOV.











Also, the Hooker cast single turbo manifold kit finally showed up after being on backorder for months. Not much to see here...



Andrew

 

You planning on C02? More YouTube videos if you do!

 

Wasn't planning on using CO2, but I do need to make some new videos...Just been busy!

Since it is winter and most vendors seem to be back ordered on so many parts, all I can do is plan ahead as much as possible and order parts as early as I can. That said, yesterday I was making a list of all the fittings and hoses that I will need for not only the fuel system, but also plumbing the turbo for oil. Since I am using a journal bearing turbo, having a steady supply of clean oil is mandatory, but the oil drain is just as important.

Here is a picture that my buddy TJ sent me. He has a 67 Chevelle and he is also doing a turbo build, using the Holley engine mounts and the 302-3 oil pan.



While Holley was nice enough to include two ports in the oil pan for oil drain back, it seems that the placement of these ports is not optimal when the pan is being used in a GM A-body. It looks like there is room in the picture, but TJ said there is barely 3/4" clearance between the oil drain port and the front crossmember. Also, access to the port is limited. The engine mounts are right there and all of it will be buried deep under the passenger side exhaust manifold.

The turbo will be a pretty good ways away, and the path of the oil drain would be quite torturous. TJ turned me on to this modified front cover that is being sold by ICT billet.








I ordered it yesterday and might install it this weekend. Of course, this means that the balancer hub has to come off...again...

Andrew

 

You don't have to buy that cover , can just drill and tap yours. Use that picture for reference or eyeball it and be careful that your fitting will clear the balancer

 

Interesting, I was planning on using the Holley pan as well for turbo drain, and from what I've read the most important thing is for the turbo drain to be big enough -10AN and have the drain be clocked so it is pointing straight down.

I looked at that cover as well, but my thought was since that port was a bit higher than the one on the Holley pan that it wouldn't be as advantageous, In my head the drain line would be shorter and have less pull with the higher port.

This is where the differences in platforms come into play, I'm doing this in a truck, and you're going into a car, so yeah clearance plays a big part!

What are your thoughts for the hooker vband connection to the T4 inlet? CX makes a 3" to T4 90* with an integrated 44mm WG adapter that I think would really make a ton of sense.

 

I am sure that the drain holes in the Holley pan work great in other applications, in fact, TJ said they were originally designed for Fox Mustang swaps. As they say, your mileage will vary.

I have no thoughts about the Holley log mating with a t4 flange, because my turbine inlet is round as well. The CX racing elbow doesn't have ideal WG placement. If it was located on the outside of the curve where it transitions from round to T4, that would be much better. You want "priority" flow placement of the waste gate, so gasses can exit the waste gate without any restriction or having to do 90 degree turns, like the CX racing elbow is laid out.

Andrew

 

Yup, my thought as well, something with a little more of a priority flow for sure. Looking forward to more pics of your build for sure.

 

I am running a stock timing cover tapped for the oil drain.

 

The ICT modded front cover arrived and it looks as advertised.






Andrew

 

Where are you planning on running your waste gate Andrew?

I was also looking at those T4 90s but found https://www.cxracing.com/EB-T4-300V-...G-C_VB_1-1_KIT
which has the waste gate in the more desirable location of those two.

Lots of guys around here run the waste gate in the crossover as well without issue. I haven't quite decided what route I'll go yet.

 

Not exactly sure yet, but somewhere in the pipe that connects the Hooker header and the turbo. I am afraid that running the wastewater in the crossover pipe may not give the best boost regulation response.

Andrew

 

Talking to guys I trust (since I don't have the first hand knowledge), running the wastegate in the crossover is fine. Is it the best most optimal way, probably not but apparently functions properly. I do like the option I linked above though.

I don't plan on running an open wastegate, so have to take that into consideration as well.

 

Man, thats interesting, I never even thought about the crossover pipe. That sure would make it easier to connect to the exhaust, and I totally Agee, open WG setups are to be avoided.

I think that CX elbow and the different WG routing would all depend on where your actual DP was planned. The angle of the exit gasses seems better on the part number with "C" on it vs "R" though, thats for sure.