Concept Performance LSR - anyone used?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 551
Likes: 66
From: Clarksville, Tn
Concept Performance LSR - anyone used? Dart is May of next year so that's a no go...
Sleeving a Gen 4 is an option but even then will be a long wait
Concept Performance is an option (more expensive)
Curious if anyone has done one and what "extras" you had to buy - looks like rear cover and cam plate which aren't cheap...
What about machine work required or was it pretty good out of the box?
Looking to do 1400hp with room to grow as the bug bites... Turbos...
Sleeving a Gen 4 is an option but even then will be a long wait
Concept Performance is an option (more expensive)
Curious if anyone has done one and what "extras" you had to buy - looks like rear cover and cam plate which aren't cheap...
What about machine work required or was it pretty good out of the box?
Looking to do 1400hp with room to grow as the bug bites... Turbos...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 551
Likes: 66
From: Clarksville, Tn
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 551
Likes: 66
From: Clarksville, Tn
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Dart is May of next year so that's a no go...
Sleeving a Gen 4 is an option but even then will be a long wait
Concept Performance is an option (more expensive)
Curious if anyone has done one and what "extras" you had to buy - looks like rear cover and cam plate which aren't cheap...
What about machine work required or was it pretty good out of the box?
Looking to do 1400hp with room to grow as the bug bites... Turbos...
Sleeving a Gen 4 is an option but even then will be a long wait
Concept Performance is an option (more expensive)
Curious if anyone has done one and what "extras" you had to buy - looks like rear cover and cam plate which aren't cheap...
What about machine work required or was it pretty good out of the box?
Looking to do 1400hp with room to grow as the bug bites... Turbos...
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Dart is May of next year so that's a no go...
Sleeving a Gen 4 is an option but even then will be a long wait
Concept Performance is an option (more expensive)
Curious if anyone has done one and what "extras" you had to buy - looks like rear cover and cam plate which aren't cheap...
What about machine work required or was it pretty good out of the box?
Looking to do 1400hp with room to grow as the bug bites... Turbos...
Sleeving a Gen 4 is an option but even then will be a long wait
Concept Performance is an option (more expensive)
Curious if anyone has done one and what "extras" you had to buy - looks like rear cover and cam plate which aren't cheap...
What about machine work required or was it pretty good out of the box?
Looking to do 1400hp with room to grow as the bug bites... Turbos...
Damn a $5000 block can only handle 250hp more than a stock 5.3!
Aww **** I forgot I was on the internet... not a single shop or engine builder is going to recommend using a stock 5.3 block at 1300 horsepower. And yes there are downsides to keeping it lightweight and not having the mains move and one of those is the cost.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 551
Likes: 66
From: Clarksville, Tn
[QUOTE=SLOW SEDAN;20401892]Assume you mean 1400whp but clarifying as an LC9 will handle 1400 crank.
Actually was thinking 1500 crank max as that's where I have to start into my fuel system, exhaust and turbo choices again.. and maybe transmission...
I just figured as long as I was spending the money might as well build for future want-to as it always happens.
I want at least a 4" bore so looked at sleeving an LC9 and was told I need billet caps in LC9 to handle 1500 crank.. then I start to get closer to dart money...
I want to build reliable power not something my butt tightens up every time down the track.. I don't like to be that guy that oils down the track.
Actually was thinking 1500 crank max as that's where I have to start into my fuel system, exhaust and turbo choices again.. and maybe transmission...
I just figured as long as I was spending the money might as well build for future want-to as it always happens.
I want at least a 4" bore so looked at sleeving an LC9 and was told I need billet caps in LC9 to handle 1500 crank.. then I start to get closer to dart money...
I want to build reliable power not something my butt tightens up every time down the track.. I don't like to be that guy that oils down the track.
Debatable, you can recommend parts but it still depends on the customers goals and budget. How many 1000+whp 4.8 and 5.3 stock block builds has Cesar from Horsepower Factory posted on here, isn't he the owner of the shop and the tuner? Some shops think outside the box, apparently you aren't one of them.
Debatable, you can recommend parts but it still depends on the customers goals and budget. How many 1000+whp 4.8 and 5.3 stock block builds has Cesar from Horsepower Factory posted on here, isn't he the owner of the shop and the tuner? Some shops think outside the box, apparently you aren't one of them.
Assume you mean 1400whp but clarifying as an LC9 will handle 1400 crank.
Actually was thinking 1500 crank max as that's where I have to start into my fuel system, exhaust and turbo choices again.. and maybe transmission...
I just figured as long as I was spending the money might as well build for future want-to as it always happens.
I want at least a 4" bore so looked at sleeving an LC9 and was told I need billet caps in LC9 to handle 1500 crank.. then I start to get closer to dart money...
I want to build reliable power not something my butt tightens up every time down the track.. I don't like to be that guy that oils down the track.
Actually was thinking 1500 crank max as that's where I have to start into my fuel system, exhaust and turbo choices again.. and maybe transmission...
I just figured as long as I was spending the money might as well build for future want-to as it always happens.
I want at least a 4" bore so looked at sleeving an LC9 and was told I need billet caps in LC9 to handle 1500 crank.. then I start to get closer to dart money...
I want to build reliable power not something my butt tightens up every time down the track.. I don't like to be that guy that oils down the track.
I've tuned both iron and aluminum 5.3's in the 1000-1200+whp range with nothing more than rods, pistons, and ARP main studs some stock bore some 3.80. I tore mine down in the winters to check bearings, another was torn down after multiple years of racing, both looked good and went into other cars. Most people that can't make them live don't have good tunes, don't check plugs, have fueling issues, etc. but a lot of tracks require pans or blankets now anyway so if you are worried throw one on. I've never physically catastrophically blown one up, pinched a few gaskets here and there but otherwise they just keep ticking even when revved to 8000 while seeing 30+ PSI.
Some guys think you should skip straight to spending big money to go fast. Others don't mind spending way less to go fast (and often have more fun doing so) and even if it does blow up aren't out nearly as much money. But usually they don't and you can sell the first build to continue on to the next when you are ready.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 551
Likes: 66
From: Clarksville, Tn
1500 crank is about 1200-1275whp. Any particular reason for wanting a 4" bore? Don't need billet caps either. What's the vehicle weight? ET/MPH goals? What turbo do you have?
I've tuned both iron and aluminum 5.3's in the 1000-1200+whp range with nothing more than rods, pistons, and ARP main studs some stock bore some 3.80. I tore mine down in the winters to check bearings, another was torn down after multiple years of racing, both looked good and went into other cars. Most people that can't make them live don't have good tunes, don't check plugs, have fueling issues, etc. but a lot of tracks require pans or blankets now anyway so if you are worried throw one on. I've never physically catastrophically blown one up, pinched a few gaskets here and there but otherwise they just keep ticking even when revved to 8000 while seeing 30+ PSI.
Some guys think you should skip straight to spending big money to go fast. Others don't mind spending way less to go fast (and often have more fun doing so) and even if it does blow up aren't out nearly as much money. But usually they don't and you can sell the first build to continue on to the next when you are ready.
I've tuned both iron and aluminum 5.3's in the 1000-1200+whp range with nothing more than rods, pistons, and ARP main studs some stock bore some 3.80. I tore mine down in the winters to check bearings, another was torn down after multiple years of racing, both looked good and went into other cars. Most people that can't make them live don't have good tunes, don't check plugs, have fueling issues, etc. but a lot of tracks require pans or blankets now anyway so if you are worried throw one on. I've never physically catastrophically blown one up, pinched a few gaskets here and there but otherwise they just keep ticking even when revved to 8000 while seeing 30+ PSI.
Some guys think you should skip straight to spending big money to go fast. Others don't mind spending way less to go fast (and often have more fun doing so) and even if it does blow up aren't out nearly as much money. But usually they don't and you can sell the first build to continue on to the next when you are ready.
Currently running 4" stroked LS1 block with K1 forged bottom and Wiseco pistons.. twin Garret 3684's (6266's).. made it to track for last run of the year and ran a 5.79 with a 1.31 60'... plugs show timing and fuel were good but I kept blowing charge pipe off at 26lbs (had wastegate not opening all the way and creeped on me) my goal is only 5.50 and will likely hit that first time out next season with some more boost on launch I think.. I am just looking to start on a short/long block to prepare for the inevitable and want to leave the door open for more in the future.. honestly if the Darts were sitting on the shelf I guess I would just go that route and call it done.
4" bore - opens options for heads and better airflow. figure I need less boost and less overall stress on motor/head gaskets with more inches. running a 5.3 through numbers with garret maps will take a lot of boost vs the inches, about 10lbs at 7000rpm for same HP...
Currently running 4" stroked LS1 block with K1 forged bottom and Wiseco pistons.. twin Garret 3684's (6266's).. made it to track for last run of the year and ran a 5.79 with a 1.31 60'... plugs show timing and fuel were good but I kept blowing charge pipe off at 26lbs (had wastegate not opening all the way and creeped on me) my goal is only 5.50 and will likely hit that first time out next season with some more boost on launch I think.. I am just looking to start on a short/long block to prepare for the inevitable and want to leave the door open for more in the future.. honestly if the Darts were sitting on the shelf I guess I would just go that route and call it done.
Currently running 4" stroked LS1 block with K1 forged bottom and Wiseco pistons.. twin Garret 3684's (6266's).. made it to track for last run of the year and ran a 5.79 with a 1.31 60'... plugs show timing and fuel were good but I kept blowing charge pipe off at 26lbs (had wastegate not opening all the way and creeped on me) my goal is only 5.50 and will likely hit that first time out next season with some more boost on launch I think.. I am just looking to start on a short/long block to prepare for the inevitable and want to leave the door open for more in the future.. honestly if the Darts were sitting on the shelf I guess I would just go that route and call it done.
You are correct the 5.3 will take more boost (and often more RPM) to reach the same whp number, but the 5.3 at stock bore retains more wall thickness so its more reliable than most other larger bore stock blocks. Look at the stock bottom end records, the small bore stuff goes faster than anything and they are running 40+PSI from a GT55 at 8400RPM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 551
Likes: 66
From: Clarksville, Tn
It's hard to know what I have will take. Read one post and I am already 400hp over what it will handle then others say it will live to a million HP... I guess it is a sickness and feel I need to be building something.. should probably run it til it dies then I have my answer.. I have the charge pipe issue addressed.