Exhaust crossover
Exhaust crossover Gents since its getting very difficult to get 2.25" ss tubing would 2.5 really be that bad. Combo is a 5.3 with BW billet 80 1.32 t-6 backside run through cast manifolds. I don't foresee and increase in cubes down the road and don't fell like building it twice. The only available tube is overpriced vibrant that I can find $$$$ vs a box of Chinese 2.5 with 8 times the material for half the cost.
Manifold hardware is the doorman replacements holding up or are ARP in my future.
I don't want to do things twice anymore.
Manifold hardware is the doorman replacements holding up or are ARP in my future.
I don't want to do things twice anymore.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 249
Likes: 36
From: Pennsylvania
FWIW I went through the same things in my head….. so I did 2.5 since it was so easy to get….. my 6.0 with a s480 t6 1.32 made positive pressure by 3400 rpm….. but I think the cubes play a big difference in spool. Buttttt technically 2.5 pipe can handle big HP. I have a friend that has an s485 on a 5.3 and he has 2 inch cross over… car has been 8.80 @ over 3800 lb
I haven't purchased any piping yet. Trying to mock up the turbo. Its all nice until you start and all your ideas and paths go to hell in a hand basket. Everywhere you think was a good idea turns out not to be. 
I thought I had tons of room guess not. Roll cage in the way now and so is the inner fender which I really wanted to keep. Rad is too big no room for fans in certain placement.
I thought I had tons of room guess not. Roll cage in the way now and so is the inner fender which I really wanted to keep. Rad is too big no room for fans in certain placement. I bought 2.25” SS from summit racing under the house brand. Did they stop carrying it?
nothing wrong with the China zzzs tubing. I run that stuff in 3” for my exhausts and it’s better than aluminized and 409 but it’s not like real good 304. If you plan to not daily it in snow and alt u will be fine or if your like me I creakote the China SS and it holds up well.
FYI my summit 304SS is China SS I believe and it was 2.25” DIA and 18 gauge on my crossover with a vibrant bellow and it been fine for over 5 years. I only push 700hp and no issues.
nothing wrong with the China zzzs tubing. I run that stuff in 3” for my exhausts and it’s better than aluminized and 409 but it’s not like real good 304. If you plan to not daily it in snow and alt u will be fine or if your like me I creakote the China SS and it holds up well.
FYI my summit 304SS is China SS I believe and it was 2.25” DIA and 18 gauge on my crossover with a vibrant bellow and it been fine for over 5 years. I only push 700hp and no issues.
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Summit is a hit and miss seams like shipping and availability is uncertain. I did see some but it was or listed as 16g when you call no one knows whats going on. I think all the stainless is china so you cant get away from it. I don't mind as long as I'm not charged the same price as North American steel.
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Ive used "squirrely" 304SS off ebay and its USA SS and its great quality at a good price. Modern automotive performance sells it (ebay store) and u can see/feel the difference compared to the china stuff. I see they sell complex bends in 2" and 2.5" but not 2.25". I have use there 1.5" and 3" stuff with great success.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Ohio, Georgia, Nevada, Texas
Summit is a hit and miss seams like shipping and availability is uncertain. I did see some but it was or listed as 16g when you call no one knows whats going on. I think all the stainless is china so you cant get away from it. I don't mind as long as I'm not charged the same price as North American steel.
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I believe that the cost benefit vs mild steel was sort of worth it. The corrosion resistance alone was a real benefit. Now the cost was just about 35% increase over the mild steel. One problem is the the additional tooling involved if you don't already own or have access to it can be a big negative.
This is getting expensive real quick. It gets more expensive doing things twice, seems to be a normal occurrence lately.
This is getting expensive real quick. It gets more expensive doing things twice, seems to be a normal occurrence lately.
Last edited by jester1; Mar 2, 2022 at 09:26 PM.
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 88
Likes: 8
Dont over think the exhaust tubing. Get the cheaper 2.5 tubing with aluminum coating. Easy to weld and helps prevent rusting out. If you need to reduce down to 2.25, Get a grinder and notch out the end and curl it down and reweld it. Or cut the flange off the original exhaust and hog it out some and weld it to the 2.5. You don't need arp bolts for the couplers either. They make stainless or grade 8 bolts you can get at a hardware store that will last forever and not break. Make sure to coat the threads with anti-seize and you are good to go.
You haven't mentioned your setup at all. What size engine, turbo, power goal etc. IMO SS esp. 304SS is more prone to crack, esp if your doing a home mig job. Are you planning to TIG, use the proper gas, filler, and back purge? If not save yourself the hassle and run mild steel. It will likely out live your engine/car etc. Its less crack prone and works really well with a simple MIG. You may not even need 2.25" pipe. I was running well into the 8's around 160 with 2" on a 6.0, 5.3, and 4.8. In most cases a smaller hot side allows you to run a larger turbo exh housing/wheel with less lag. My T6 S480 on divided 2" piping spooled just as well as my merged T4 S475 with 2.5" piping. With the right part combo/tune you can spool about any turbo even with 3" or larger hotsides. Its just not necessary and not practical. Run the smallest piping your goals allow. Its easier to package and cheaper.
