I searched and searched and seen everyone pulling bumpers. Eh idk I think that sucks majorly. Especially on these 20 year old cars now with your intercoolers bolted in and everything else. So here is what I did, I’m only posting this for someone else to maybe find when searching for methanol pump location or where can I mount my meth pump.

this is my car, it’s never going to stock, it’s extensively modified at this point, 9” rear, has the fuel trap door etc. do I recommend this for a show car? Nah. But for my street car this was MUCH easier to do by myself in the garage.
I don’t run a front plate. I have the filler panel. Make sure you can hide your cuts behind the plate if you run one and DONT cut out the license plate bolt holes. I used a dremel wheel. Once done get a monstrous drill bit and start working on cutting a square out of the foam.
Drill the frame for bolts then Bend the bracket 90degrees in a vice and use a 90 degree drill underneath to get all 4 bolts installed. I then drilled 2 larger holes for my meth lines. The best part is once you are done, pop your license plate back on or the filler plate and no one will be any the wiser and it’s very easy to get to. Cheers! Note I’m still mid build and haven’t cleaned the dust off that the camera picks up!

 

Depends on race car? well sky's the limit, On my street car I used the windshield washer tank and mounted the pump in the passenger front fender well works great. GL!

 

Ah yea I wish lol. I forgot to mention, this is with twin 4.5” IC’s. Literally see no way in hell to get anything in there on a trans am, Camaros probably have more room with the fixed headlights! Will have to change to a 90degree fitting on the bottom pump. Here’s a pic with it mostly mounted up

 

Got to be careful with factory WW fluid tanks, depending on the percentage of meth you are running. I "think" most of them are fine to at least a 50/50 mix, but I know for certain the seals will degrade on many of them with 100% meth. As to the OP question, when running supplemental meth injection, I prefer the pump to be as close as possible to the injection site while avoiding any major fire hazards. Unlike your primary fuel system, the meth cycles on and off based on boost, so you want the actuation to be as soon as possible.

 

Hey thanks for the info, I’m using a snow 2.5 with the 300PSI pump and gauge/controller. Right now just have 4 gallons of boost juice cause it’s easy to get delivered to the door lol. It’s 49/51%. It has a check valve. Pretty sure the norm is close to the nozzle but the Question is, are you possibly saying it’s better to run 2 check valves? One near the pump outlet and the other near the nozzle to prevent siphoning while keeping the feed line full? Either way, I don’t think I’ll have an issue but still, knowledge is wealth.

Note this is on a higher compression SBE(questionable as PO had it rebuilt and it’s lived at 7k rpm for 30k miles) Heads cam NA car that makes 425-450wheel. I plan on running pretty low PSI from a procharger and ramping meth in around 2PSI. Only really gotta live through the year. After that idgaf I’ll buy a block lmao. It’s a D1SC so it’s quite capable of turning this motor inside out. As of right now it’s nearly done. Got br7 plugs in. Meth gauge and everything is ready. Just waiting on a few fittings from Nxpress
IM HOPING with my large cam it will bleed off a lot of cyl pressure and make less psi through the peak torque than usual. That with the colder plugs and meth should keep the ring gaps happy-ish …maybe. LOL

Anyway, I posted this because I literally looked and searched and most people run rear tanks or pull the bumpers or simply say they just mounted it on the frame rail..hell I couldn’t figure out where on earth they were mounting it on the frame, there’s literally no room in my ws6 for anything.. The twin 4.5” IC setup eats up my entire bumper. Even had to cut probably an inch off of my air vents under the turn signal lights for them to fit…pulling the front clip is a royal PITA in a limited spaced garage by yourself. So I figured I’d share what I did.

 

Remember that as long as your primary fuel system is adequate, you have the option of running pure water injection if controlling detonation is your only concern. However, if you already have a front end full of intercoolers, you will have to boost the **** out of it for temps to be high enough to flash off pure water injection without a significant bog when the pump turns on. If this is starting to sound like a tuning nightmare, it can be. Sort of like slapping on an off the shelf carb vs having a pro tune one for you. You can make it as easy or as useful as your time allows.

 

In all reality, my prior 255 and 42#@4 bar injectors would likely have been able to keep up with the meth to help, probably at the least just an injector swap to real 42#ers. I only saw maybe 65-70% duty cycle at 12.8 AFR..but I’ve since swapped to a single 340 and Deka 60s(haven’t ran it much but idle is pretty rich in the 13.5s range) gotta get it over to the shop to make sure I’m not loading up the rails due to a 5/16th return line.. but yea the meth/water is simply a detonation prevention for me and the water helping keep the cyl temps down. I’m hoping with a 235/243 cam on a 111LSA I won’t make any significant boost(went with a really big pulley) at first so I can get the tune dialed in. Was a MAF blended car so my VE is only dialed in to about 3600 rpm and the rest of the high rpm mid load table is just extrapolated from tuning VE in the few WOT pulls I did in speed density..My car ran better with the Maf since I idle at 70KPA and had such low resolution at low rpms.

 

Are you wearing a belt and suspenders while sitting down? Just kidding, but you really are taking an ultra conservative approach to this. Nothing wrong with that, but I think as you tune things in, there is a chance you may not even want the supplemental injection. It is also obvious that you will be way past maxing out your factory MAF tables. I would personally go pure SD, but there are scaling tricks if you do not want to go that route. If my wildly speculative guesses are correct, supplemental injection will probably only change the coin flip between whether your unusable on the street amount of power bends a rod or butts a ringland first.

 

Lol yea I went a little nuts on everything with plans of grenading this motor and putting something better in..and awh you don’t think it will live at low boost? Lol I guess I better just take everything back off and sell it . I’m hoping to try and get around 550 wheel and call it quits until I have the funds for a shortblock. But hell, the way things are trending I might be swapping an electric motor in my f body next year lmao. In all seriousness Once I get the funds idc if it windows the block, I mean it will suck since it might take my prc 225 heads with it but oh well I can’t use them on my next block anyway...the way you talk though hell I might just put around and listen to the jet aircraft in front of me.. haha. Speaking of unusable. ****, I still got 4.11s in the rear LOL
and I REALLY wish hptuners would have a MAF OS with boost enrichment tables in it. That would be the end all be all

 

I meant you will be maxing **** out after you start using your low boost pulley as a paperweight. If you have the valvesprings for it, and if you are using gas instead of e85, you should be way over 700rwhp before you run out of fuel, but because you are running a centrifugal with a cam that may not be optimized for the blower, you will probably be turning high rpms. This means you should be way past peak torque at peak horsepower. I see you completely devoid of traction before you need your snow kit.

 

Isn’t that how it always goes? I remember when I thought my car was pretty quick. And then it slowly got boring. And you leave my sissyboy 4.6” pulley out of this! Lol. I knew it was bad though, I had to make a custom Allen key and cut a small pocket in the blower pulley flange just to get the bracket mounting bolt in..idk if many people run that big of a pulley or what the deal was but it definitely wouldn’t fit the 8 rib bracket from procharger very well. But yea I’ve no idea what to expect from this combo.. This cam should be shifted near 6500ish but with the additions of heads it easily carries to 7k. I planned on setting the limiter down to 6200..if it’s too wild even with my radials I’ll probably end up pulling the third member and getting it serviced/re geared…it’s just a toy car to take the spouse in these days anyway lol. She’s in skewl right now and wants an f body when she gets her degree so I guess I’ll have plenty of spare parts lmao

 

Old bastard. I too, remember when a ws6 with 4.10 gears and a t56 was fast as hell. First time I drove one the owner thought I would take it easy because I already downed half a bottle of Jack. Imagine my disappointment to find out that 165mph on the speedo was not even 130, because back then tuning software was so rudimentary even a gear recalibration was hard to come by.

 

Lmao I’ve always wondered if some slick car owner out there ever set their gear ratio to the lowest possible number and just used a gps speed tracker for mph. Easy way to keep miles off the car..

 

Yeah I think I'm good its been like that since 2004 and I've tested every combination of Meth 50/50,100 water, 100% Meth! So just to be clear I think I'm pretty good with the subject, and run it the same way on my Vette. I never saw a single gain from water, and wouldn't recomend that to anyone as it does remove lubrication from the valves so over time you could damage the motor possibly over the long term. And yes mounting the pump as close a possible would always be preferable, but they make these things called check valves for the cases where location isn't as close as desired. Seen the most gains with 100% methanol No major improvement between M1 to M5 in my tests. Another thing is you never want to spray across a MAF of any kind it will **** them up. Its why I usually seperate the temp sensor and the MAF inject after the MAF but before the Temp sensor so you can use the IAT to add or remove timing to keep it simple ETC... GL!

 

Update on the car. With a 235/243. 630/615 111LSA cam and PRC 225 heads I’m seeing 135 KPA from a D1sc at 4400 during roughing in my VE while I’m awaiting my methanol fittings…this is with a 4.63 procharger pulley…looks like those rings are going to touch before i know it. Lol

 

I like meth. I’m running 50/50 mix along with 50 percent ethanol as my primary fuel. Over spun D1x. This is a screen shot of my second back to back 2nd gear pull after driving a half hour to get to Mexico. Temp outside was about 79 degrees.

 

Wow that’s wild. How’s your ECT so wonderfully low! Haha. Question on plugs. My startup tune was stupid rich. Idle afrs at 12s wideband showing 10s first initial VE dialing in.. Took a while to figure it out tune wise. Cruising was dumb rich. Etc. Started pushing car up into mid range rpm recently(3-4K) and I’m getting a little missing. They are br7s. Did they foul out that fast? Should I bump my idle and midrange timing up a few degrees to get them self cleaning? Could my miss be from too low of timing on these cold plugs? Just put them in at out the box gap

 

get your afr dialed in before adding timing. What gap are you using?

ect and under hood temps have never been a problem for me even before the meth. 160 thermostat and fans on at 179.

 

I’m just running out the box gap on the br7 I beleive they are .028-.030
Im currently just tuning off closed loop STFT to get me close. Currently I’m about 0 to -10 on a 45 minute log. I have a TPS>1 filter running so as to not muddy up my data with decel. Once it get it closer I’ll switch to my wideband to check it

 

I was getting spark blow out with stock gaps on br7’s. I run 0.021 gap now no issues. I’m in open loop speed density so I don’t use narrow bands at all. Either way afr should be dialed in and make sure you have no detonation and check the timing mark on the plugs before adding timing.