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Oil restrictors are a heated topic. I've always ran a restrictor on any turbo setup I've had, all journal bearings, and never cooked a turbo. Most that do it will use anywhere from a 0.040-0.080 restrictor. On the pump I don't have a controller it just runs whenever the key is on. I'm using a Turbowerx Spartan that is still going strong, but many run the Turbowerx Exa pump. MAKE SURE YOU RUN A CHECK VALVE ON THE INLET TO THE TURBO. If you dont, oil in the feed will leak into the turbo after shut down and cause all sorts of problems.
And yes, for a daily you'll certainly want a muffler. Look into the turbo muffler style from Thrush or Dynomax, etc. if you want it quiet. You'll want a cutout though for max perfomance if you run anything other than a straight through bullet style muffler.
Definitely need a better tire than an auto for sure. I don't mind topping out the DD at 6300-6500 rpms....variably cams FTW. Being in boost at 1500 is fantastic for my driving style. But that's also why on my Camaro I shifted from the GT67 to the 7665 to the 7875, so it'll rev over 7k no issue.
I'm the opposite I hate lugging gears, I always want a reason to downshift, and cruising is usually over 2k RPM anyways.
Oil restrictors are a heated topic. I've always ran a restrictor on any turbo setup I've had, all journal bearings, and never cooked a turbo. Most that do it will use anywhere from a 0.040-0.080 restrictor. On the pump I don't have a controller it just runs whenever the key is on. I'm using a Turbowerx Spartan that is still going strong, but many run the Turbowerx Exa pump. MAKE SURE YOU RUN A CHECK VALVE ON THE INLET TO THE TURBO. If you dont, oil in the feed will leak into the turbo after shut down and cause all sorts of problems.
And yes, for a daily you'll certainly want a muffler. Look into the turbo muffler style from Thrush or Dynomax, etc. if you want it quiet. You'll want a cutout though for max perfomance if you run anything other than a straight through bullet style muffler.
Hah. I have not thought of simple oil restrictor fittings. That's a great "mechanical" way to always have oil in the turbo and resorvoir. CHECK VALVE before Turbo = CHECK!
I try to keep it as simple as possible.the less " extras I have to add the better it is for me.
PS for the oil return from The turbo . Do you run a 10AN to the reservoir only? And then a smaller line from reservoir to scavenge pump . And then similar size line to the oil drain back in the pan?
Hah. I have not thought of simple oil restrictor fittings. That's a great "mechanical" way to always have oil in the turbo and resorvoir. CHECK VALVE before Turbo = CHECK!
I try to keep it as simple as possible.the less " extras I have to add the better it is for me.
PS for the oil return from The turbo . Do you run a 10AN to the reservoir only? And then a smaller line from reservoir to scavenge pump . And then similar size line to the oil drain back in the pan?
I don't run a reservoir. Outlet of the turbo into a pump then back into the pass side valve cover.
A decent vented reservoir would likely eliminate the need for the check valve. None of the aircraft I worked on ran a check valve pre turbo. Just a reservoir gravity drained to the case. check valve sounds easier, but I'd think a properly vented sump would prob be a better more reliable setup.
Depending on how high you can get the turbo mounted another option would be a stand-alone oiling system. Gravity drain into a gallon sump. Then pump it out of the sump, thru a cooler and filter into the turbo. That was my plan for a truck mounted remote setup anyway. Prob not much room on the BMW tho… unless you put the turbo in the trunk.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 09-08-2022 at 04:19 PM.
A decent vented reservoir would likely eliminate the need for the check valve. None of the aircraft I worked on ran a check valve pre turbo. Just a reservoir gravity drained to the case. check valve sounds easier, but I'd think a properly vented sump would prob be a better more reliable setup.
Depending on how high you can get the turbo mounted another option would be a stand-alone oiling system. Gravity drain into a gallon sump. Then pump it out of the sump, thru a cooler and filter into the turbo. That was my plan for a truck mounted remote setup anyway. Prob not much room on the BMW tho… unless you put the turbo in the trunk.
I don't have the space for a standing. doed this sump mount directly to the T4 drain? And i would pump out of the drain back to the pan?
Because there's less chance of needing a restrictor if you have a reservoir below the turbo for gravity draining lol. Skip it and put a restrictor.
And when you shut the engine down, it gives space for the oil to gravity drain and not build up in the cartridge and leak past the seal into the exhaust housing. (which I guess is also stopped by a check valve.)
i see , makes sense i dont think i have much space for a gravity feed reservoir
so a combo of this little direct mount Sump (https://www.sonexaircraft.com/eshop/...oduct_id=17586)
+ a check valve would be a good option i think.
again, the return line from
TURBO- Pump = 10 AN
then from Pump ( with restrictor) to Pan = 10An as well? since its restricted anyways logically thinking, i shouldnt need a 10 AN , right?
And when you shut the engine down, it gives space for the oil to gravity drain and not build up in the cartridge and leak past the seal into the exhaust housing. (which I guess is also stopped by a check valve.)
i see , makes sense i dont think i have much space for a gravity feed reservoir
so a combo of this little direct mount Sump (https://www.sonexaircraft.com/eshop/...oduct_id=17586)
+ a check valve would be a good option i think.
again, the return line from
TURBO- Pump = 10 AN
then from Pump ( with restrictor) to Pan = 10An as well? since its restricted anyways logically thinking, i shouldnt need a 10 AN , right?
That's pretty slick. Do you have any idea how much clearance you gain doing this vs. a right angle AN fitting?
These don't hang lower than the turbo housing, so depends on your drain and fitting, but however far your fitting hangs past your turbo is the clearance you gain.
Thanks alot for all the input.
How do you guys support the turbo weight.
how you build your mounts to the frame, chassis etc.
I thoughtthoughtfabbing a mount of the T4 flange
I can share my direct rear mount turbo swap experience as I went through 3 turbos-
Started with the STS upgraded turbo which is a GT67. Light switch but felt choked.
Went to a Billet 7665. Much better and more suited to stockish rpm range. Topped out about 6k, maybe a little higher.
Finally went to a Billet 7875. Pulls to 7k+ and wants to keep pulling. Give up some lowend, but its helped with traction in lower gears. When 3rd gear hits and it wants to spin the tires at 90 mph, its LOL.
how is the 78/75 for you in the lower RPMs lets say 4-4.5K + ?
i have a new 78/75 ( ebay special) here that i am planning on using
if i would purchase a 76/65 ish turbo i would go cheap ebay as well and see what it does before investing in something better.
so the routing etc is pretty much clear , now its the turbo sizing.
in general i love the "work with what you have" approach
Depends on what gear you hit it in. Anything outside of first rolling into it and it's online. If you want all the boost in by then see about the 7665. But if you want to rev much over 6k it'll run out of steam.
09-08-2022, 10:21 AM
