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The VS has two versions now the older gen is only 100 bucks, the gen two uses a V band to secure the top. For 100 I may order it and test it and if its good install it with the 12lb already installed in it. That is about all I can run.
I get the VS gates work for 99% of people but for a component that can destroy your engine if it doesn't work right, I'd buy something high quality but that's just me.
I ran Tial gates in my last car and they work great, current car has Turbosmart gates and they work excellent as well.
Honestly that is what i am looking at. The fact the first one didn't hurt something is kind of a wake up call to me. I was looking at those two and Precision.
Honestly that is what i am looking at. The fact the first one didn't hurt something is kind of a wake up call to me. I was looking at those two and Precision.
China gate 101 is to disassemble, debur the shaft,lube, clean out the metal crap, and reassemble with Loctite. Lapping the valve seat and fire ring is also a good idea.
I’ve never had an issue on a china gate I’ve done this to and I’ve run some for over a decade. It’s a simple open/close valve. No reason to break the bank on it. Also no reason to cheap out if a "good gate" is in your budget. I'm sure that will fix your issue.
Also a WG *shouldn’t* be able to destroy an engine. You should have safeties for overboost and AFR.
Might try this little “hack” when installing springs as well. Makes it VERY easy.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Jul 19, 2023 at 02:13 PM.
China gate 101 is to disassemble, debur the shaft,lube, clean out the metal crap, and reassemble with Loctite. Lapping the valve seat and fire ring is also a good idea.
I’ve never had an issue on a china gate I’ve done this to and I’ve run some for over a decade. It’s a simple open/close valve. No reason to break the bank on it. Also no reason to cheap out if a "good gate" is in your budget. I'm sure that will fix your issue.
Also if a WG *shouldn’t* be able to destroy an engine. You should have safeties for overboost and AFR.
Might try this little “hack” when installing springs as well. Makes it VERY easy.
That is brilliant, always made me nervous kneeling on them and trying to get the screws started before time ran out lol.
I put it in a vise last time to shut it slowly. Still probably pinched it, I am just so ready to done with this. I just one day went to the basement and took the headers off and started to put on a turbo kit, and now we are here.....
I put it in a vise last time to shut it slowly. Still probably pinched it, I am just so ready to done with this. I just one day went to the basement and took the headers off and started to put on a turbo kit, and now we are here.....
It'll be worth it once its sorted, there's always a few bugs to work out in the beginning.
I agree, I got on it a little bit with a fat tune and it pulled good at 10lbs, I can see how its addicting. I ordered the Boost Tee also from turbo smart, going to leave the 7 psi spring in it and use that to increase it in the car. I may have to take it out though to keep me from turning it up to 14 or so lol.
I agree, I got on it a little bit with a fat tune and it pulled good at 10lbs, I can see how its addicting. I ordered the Boost Tee also from turbo smart, going to leave the 7 psi spring in it and use that to increase it in the car. I may have to take it out though to keep me from turning it up to 14 or so lol.
My last turbo six speed car was very similar to yours, ended up at 14 lbs. and it was a handful on Nitto NT05's, guy I sold the car to totaled it in a month.
Next step should be an EBC, those make the boost come on so much harder plus makes it easy to dial in especially if you get one with an AFR gauge built in for safety cuts.
FWIW you can make your Manual Boost controller Bring on boost just as quickly as an EBC with a few cheap parts from the local hardware store. The MBC “T” you bought may already have this. But you can build one pretty darn cheap as well.
Basically need a ball and spring to act as a check valve. That holds the air signal back until your target boost is reached. Basically slamming the gate open. Without It, the gate creeps open before the target boost is reached giving you sluggish response.
I run a cheap China tial knockoff gate. When I got it the valve would bind in the guide. Disassembled and polished it and it's much better. Doesn't feels as buttery as my buddies actual tial but works just as good.
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