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5.3 LM4, 7875 gen2 1.25AR. bottom of bare center section (no fittings) is roughly 2.375" higher than bottom of c6 oil pan flange. This was measured on a stand with the engine at a similar angle to how it will be in the car.
When I put a straightedge on the drain flange of the center section, it's pretty much even with the bottom of the balancer bolt.
The black bracket is a turbo brace. Could be modified or changed if need be. I think I could easily run a -12an drain line if need be.
I would very highly prefer to not run a scavenger pump.
In my research, some people say this is too low. Others say no problem. Not sure what to believe. @Forcefed86 has used sweated copper tubing, looks like a potential option. But I'm assuming I need some flexible portion of the drain line.
I still need to put 6-7 quarts of water in my pan and see the lowest point I could mount the drain on the pan.
About the same position as my old TTi kit on my Camaro, has worked fine since I installed it back in 2005 (still running and driving around today with the current owner) and has been fine for tons of others who ran the same kit.
It will be close for sure, use as large a line as possible and no fitting that neck down a lot internally. Make sure your crankcase pressure is vented well.
Diameter is your friend. I’d run hard pipe of some sort, not AN fittings. No smaller than ¾ ID. Copper plumbing pipe works surprisingly well. You can solder the joints as well. if you use the proper barbs you can use the really strong heat shrink and not hose clamps to save space and clean up the look.
They are called heat shrink clamps. Gates originally made them, but I think other companies have jumped on. Prob 5-6x thicker than standard shrink wrap and gets hard and ridged when shrunk.
I actually used 3” versions of these on my charge piping. Used them on the radiator too. They held up great on the charge pipe. But I will say I had one blow off my radiator when I blew a HG and charged the radiator.
Diameter is your friend. I’d run hard pipe of some sort, not AN fittings. No smaller than ¾ ID. Copper plumbing pipe works surprisingly well. You can solder the joints as well. if you use the proper barbs you can use the really strong heat shrink and not hose clamps to save space and clean up the look.
Thanks
Did you just standard plumbing solder or silver solder? Is full hard pipe OK or is a flex section necessary?
I’d want some flex in the system. I used a section of ¾ ID heater hose at the pan connection. I used silver solder. Its just what I had laying around.
I’d grab the ¾ NPT turbo drain flanges. Even in the manuals is states no smaller than 19mm ID the entire length.
I’d want some flex in the system. I used a section of ¾ ID heater hose at the pan connection. I used silver solder. Its just what I had laying around.
I’d grab the ¾ NPT turbo drain flanges. Even in the manuals is states no smaller than 19mm ID the entire length.
thanks man. Does anyone have any idea of how hot the center section gets? The silver solder melts at about 400F.
Wanted to follow back up with my results. Thanks to @Forcefed86 for the copper idea.
I made the lines from 3/4 copper fittings which are almost 7/8" inner diameter. Custom copper drain flange. Tig welded all joints. NBR 7/8" ID fuel hose. Tapped 3/4 NPT in the front side of the pan.
Hose is about 3/4" from balancer. Turbo blanket just barely fits but it does.
I feel like this is the best drain line that could be made for my particular setup.
Man that’s a straight horizontal drain! It may be large enough OD to work. But I’d want a little downhill to it. mine was similar but had a 45 off the drain initially then went to a 3 foot piece that was borderline horizontal. Was much longer… never had an issue. No restrictor either.
Man that’s a straight horizontal drain! It may be large enough OD to work. But I’d want a little downhill to it. mine was similar but had a 45 off the drain initially then went to a 3 foot piece that was borderline horizontal. Was much longer… never had an issue. No restrictor either.
Best of luck!
Well, the drain slopes 2.375" from the turbo outlet to the pan as shown in the earlier picture. It has a fairly consistent slope throughout. So it's not a huge slope, but certainly not horizontal.
it depends on the design. all my turbos had restrictors, most of them buit in. in that configuration i would try and get info on the (smallest) size recommended.
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Evaluate my turbo drain options 
