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Really frustrating, idk what to do man. Do I have to pull this kit off and completely start over or is there something he is missing. I just don't understand how a manifold can get so hot that it cracks a spark plug
I believe we warned you in a prior thread about using a kit like CX racing. I told you the Huronspeed fitment was fantastic. I bolted on the manifolds and stuck stock wires on it and not a single wire was close to the headers. Did they wrap the manifolds in addition to heat shielding the wires?
People over complicate things. You don't need a new hotside IMO. Yes factory manifolds would have worked better. But you can work around what you have.
#4 doesn't look horrible to me.
I'd tach a piece of sheet metal under the plug. Just drill a small hole and tack weld straight to manifold. maybe make one with a small air gap. Or even fold a piece of alum and safety wire it on the manifold if you don't have a welder. No way in hell that's cracking plugs, and you can see where it's physically touched the manifold. Hard to tell how much space is between the boot and where its touched with that pic. But may also be a good candidate for heating it up with a torch and smashing it down flat. Get a 1/2" of clearance, wrap it, and call it good.
#7 looks a bit worse, but also nothing that can't simply be bent/beaten into place. Use lot of heat and smash that runner down 1/2" or so.
He may also behaving issues with those plug wires. You don't need or even want huge (8-10mm) plug wires. They have poor insulation and can case RMF issues with cam/crank signals. I'd use the regular ol 7.5mm OEM style wires. No reason to spend the money on expensive wires. They aren't gonna do anything for you. Esp. if you keep burning them up.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Oct 27, 2023 at 10:16 AM.
I agree, no way that's cracking plugs , they're getting damaged on install or removal. I'm looking at it this way , you wrap the exhaust to maintain heat / velocity/pressure and to radiate less heat in the engine bay, retaining heat means the pipes are hotter and having unwrapped areas near the plugs is actually exposing the plug boots to higher temps . In your case that's area that needs wrap the most
I agree for plug boot/wire life. In my experience wrapping relatively thin tubular manifolds usually leads to cracking. I'm not a fan of wrapping 16g tubular steel china manifolds. Better off with heat shield if possible. Gotta do what you gotta do though. Not a lot of options for the guy.
Looks to me like #7 just need a 135° and a sleeve #4 maybe a bit of clearancing and sleeve . All wires should get sleeves , and primaries should be wrapped right to the flange.
This right here, dimple any tubes that require clearance, pull the manifold back off, soak the wrap in water, double wrap it tight all the way to the flanges.
If you have to wrap a couple tubes together, that's no big deal.
Add some heat sleeves to the wires and you should be good to go.
People over complicate things. You don't need a new hotside IMO. Yes factory manifolds would have worked better. But you can work around what you have.
#4 doesn't look horrible to me.
I'd tach a piece of sheet metal under the plug. Just drill a small hole and tack weld straight to manifold. maybe make one with a small air gap. Or even fold a piece of alum and safety wire it on the manifold if you don't have a welder. No way in hell that's cracking plugs, and you can see where it's physically touched the manifold. Hard to tell how much space is between the boot and where its touched with that pic. But may also be a good candidate for heating it up with a torch and smashing it down flat. Get a 1/2" of clearance, wrap it, and call it good.
#7 looks a bit worse, but also nothing that can't simply be bent/beaten into place. Use lot of heat and smash that runner down 1/2" or so.
He may also behaving issues with those plug wires. You don't need or even want huge (8-10mm) plug wires. They have poor insulation and can case RMF issues with cam/crank signals. I'd use the regular ol 7.5mm OEM style wires. No reason to spend the money on expensive wires. They aren't gonna do anything for you. Esp. if you keep burning them up.
#4 is actually causing the most issues, the 3 runner tubes are touching each other and don't have any space in between so it's almost like the heat has no where to go but straight to the heat. It's not even touching and you can watch it when it's running. The boot gets way to hot and actually starts to melt without touching. The crack plug thing I'm not buying it either but he did prove that it's burning the wires. It almost seems if I could spread them out a bit and get some space between them it might would help and if I put the plate on it then just wrap over the plate too or don't wrap it if I do that?
also I have a buddy that's a welder that's coming to my house tonight to look at it with me so I'm just wanting to get a solid plan before we start .
just wrap the three tubes as one and put a heat sleeve on the plug wire. i think you would be fine.
but your best bet is while you have the header off for wrapping, go ahead and throw it in the trash and get something else.
the $3000 you spent on the tuners labor fighting this could have been spent on a better kit in the beginning and you would have been far ahead.
just wrap the three tubes as one and put a heat sleeve on the plug wire. i think you would be fine.
but your best bet is while you have the header off for wrapping, go ahead and throw it in the trash and get something else.
the $3000 you spent on the tuners labor fighting this could have been spent on a better kit in the beginning and you would have been far ahead.
you telling me something I already know, aint no reason to cry about it tho. You live and learn bro. Im not gonna just give up on my truck tho because he fucked me over
we have all been there. my recommendation comes from first hand experience. im not saying you should give up on the truck, im saying you should give up on the turbo kit.
and if your tuner spent a ton of time dicking around with your shitty turbo kit burning plug wires instead of tuning it, i wouldnt necessarily say he screwed you over. theres a reason a lot of tuners wont touch a car with FITech or off-brand injectors.
You can't fold a piece of aluminum in half (so there's a small air gap in it). And slide it under the plug right here?
Drill a couple small holes on the bottom to slide some SS safety wire through and tie it on the manifold. Hit it with black BBQ grill paint and it won't be such an eye sore.
As said , just wrap em together. To aid in plug install/ removal take a normal plug socket and cut down the length so the wire end goes into the 3/8 square drive , adjust to needs then use a 3/4 wrench to turn the plug socket . If there's room a flex head ratchet wrench works great
we have all been there. my recommendation comes from first hand experience. im not saying you should give up on the truck, im saying you should give up on the turbo kit.
and if your tuner spent a ton of time dicking around with your shitty turbo kit burning plug wires i
nstead of tuning it, i wouldnt necessarily say he screwed you over. theres a reason a lot of tuners wont touch a car with FITech or off-brand injectors.
These are the injectors I have, this is considered knock off brand? And worse case scenario I'll get my buddy to fabricate it for me, he's an extremely good welder and wS willing to do it from the start but I listened to the tuner instead
You can't fold a piece of aluminum in half (so there's a small air gap in it). And slide it under the plug right here?
Drill a couple small holes on the bottom to slide some SS safety wire through and tie it on the manifold. Hit it with black BBQ grill paint and it won't be such an eye sore.
10-4 I'll give that a try first. Thats actually a good ideal
These are the injectors I have, this is considered knock off brand? And worse case scenario I'll get my buddy to fabricate it for me, he's an extremely good welder and wS willing to do it from the start but I listened to the tuner instead
i cant comment on your injectors, but i was using that as a general example not in reference to anything you have.
So I found the old spark plugs, he had them in a box inside the truck. There was 1 cracked spark plug in there and it looked to me like it was broke due to installation. As you see the drivers side we put on a factory manifold. Just welded the v band and the passenger side we saved the manifold but removed all the ram horn looking **** and just made it a log style to where the runners go straight into the manifold
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