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I'm not interested in your pissing match. There would be no need in a streetcar to go "all in on launch" with a 250 shot with a 2650 blower. It's been about 10 years since I've had a serious nitrous setup and the biggest shot, I ran on the 408 I had at the time was 200, but even then, I was on a progressive controller. I'm not up to date on the latest nitrous controllers, but I'd imagine they've come a long way. The benefit of the 2650 is the massive off idle torque and flat curve so the nitrous would be more to help on the top end not launch. I'm an ethanol plus meth injection user. Ethanol has made race gas unnecessary for street cars and those that need more than ethanol go straight to methanol now as race gas rarely outperforms ethanol.
my hope was actual discussion about why it's a bad idea and the myths that were stated instead of the pissing match, but it is what it is. Your post is entirely my point. It's ALOT of IF you do this and IF you do that then you MAY be able to make it live. A 250 shot even with a progressive is a big hit to cylinder pressures when already feeding it with a roots/twin screw blower.
my hope was actual discussion about why it's a bad idea and the myths that were stated instead of the pissing match, but it is what it is. Your post is entirely my point. It's ALOT of IF you do this and IF you do that then you MAY be able to make it live. A 250 shot even with a progressive is a big hit to cylinder pressures when already feeding it with a roots/twin screw blower.
IMO you started this thread down the wrong path. You say you were in for actual discussion, but your first sentence is: In for carnage pics with no explanation to the OP as to why you felt this was a bad idea. That first post of yours started the pissing match. Every combo in a streetcar at 1300 rwhp is filled with a lot of what ifs. The only what ifs here are the tune, fuel type, and the engine build. This applies to any combo at 1300 rwhp with street ability and longevity being a concern.
Everyone that uses big shots of nitrous is using a controller.
If you would have posted the "what if's" that would be needed for the combo to live rather than just say "in for the carnage pics" and start bashing the OP it wouldn't have turned into a pissing match.
Maybe he needs details like...
I'd recommend an LSX or other 6 bolt head option with internals rated for the desired power level as well as ethanol rather than pump gas, a nitrous controller to ease the hit, and a good tune. If you aren't willing to do those things then you are really risking it not holding up.
I mean when someone posts they want a 1300 rwhp turbo combo I wouldn't just say "in for carnage pics" and assume they are running a sbe, on pump gas, with a crappy tune hitting as much boost as possible at as low rpm as possible and all the timing. No, I'd recommend what I thought they needed to do to make it reliable at that power level.
IMO you started this thread down the wrong path. You say you were in for actual discussion, but your first sentence is: In for carnage pics with no explanation to the OP as to why you felt this was a bad idea. That first post of yours started the pissing match. Every combo in a streetcar at 1300 rwhp is filled with a lot of what ifs. The only what ifs here are the tune, fuel type, and the engine build. This applies to any combo at 1300 rwhp with street ability and longevity being a concern.
Everyone that uses big shots of nitrous is using a controller.
If you would have posted the "what if's" that would be needed for the combo to live rather than just say "in for the carnage pics" and start bashing the OP it wouldn't have turned into a pissing match.
Maybe he needs details like...
I'd recommend an LSX or other 6 bolt head option with internals rated for the desired power level as well as ethanol rather than pump gas, a nitrous controller to ease the hit, and a good tune. If you aren't willing to do those things then you are really risking it not holding up.
I mean when someone posts they want a 1300 rwhp turbo combo I wouldn't just say "in for carnage pics" and assume they are running a sbe, on pump gas, with a crappy tune hitting as much boost as possible at as low rpm as possible and all the timing. No, I'd recommend what I thought they needed to do to make it reliable at that power level.
I guess nobody is allowed to write a joke anymore, its immediately taken for BS. I'll have to be sure to add "lol" at the end....oh wait, that would just fuel the fire....LOL. In case you missed it OP has been a ***** in every thread he's started to all sorts of member. You forget it takes 2 to tango and there's an inherent expectation that if you make a thread asking for help maybe you should shut your mouth and listen and ask questions, otherwise you wouldn't have posted the question to begin with.
PS....now that I'm leaving OP can respond back with some smart-*** comment, but I've unsubscribed and won't read it. You do you boo boo. 👌
I guess nobody is allowed to write a joke anymore, its immediately taken for BS. I'll have to be sure to add "lol" at the end....oh wait, that would just fuel the fire....LOL. In case you missed it OP has been a ***** in every thread he's started to all sorts of member. You forget it takes 2 to tango and there's an inherent expectation that if you make a thread asking for help maybe you should shut your mouth and listen and ask questions, otherwise you wouldn't have posted the question to begin with.
PS....now that I'm leaving OP can respond back with some smart-*** comment, but I've unsubscribed and won't read it. You do you boo boo. 👌
Aww... the "I was joking" excuse after being negative and non-helpful while turning the thread into a pissing match...LOL. Now I'm leaving because reasons...LOL.
PS...I don't recognize the OP or remember ever reading one of his threads. Even if he is as you describe it doesn't really mean you need to act the same way and try to antagonize him then play the victim...LOL...
I guess nobody is allowed to write a joke anymore, its immediately taken for BS. I'll have to be sure to add "lol" at the end....oh wait, that would just fuel the fire....LOL. In case you missed it OP has been a ***** in every thread he's started to all sorts of member. You forget it takes 2 to tango and there's an inherent expectation that if you make a thread asking for help maybe you should shut your mouth and listen and ask questions, otherwise you wouldn't have posted the question to begin with.
PS....now that I'm leaving OP can respond back with some smart-*** comment, but I've unsubscribed and won't read it. You do you boo boo. 👌
Lessoned learned....but you do this a lot. Your first comments are ****. Members like 'BCNUL8R" actually answer with INFORMATION, KNOWLEDGE, first hand accounts of cars he's seen with this kind of combo. If enough negative posts are posted I would be able to see that it might be a bad idea.
Instead....you're just a cheesedick.....and YOU KNOW IT. Now all of a sudden its a joke after several posts. What is shocking you is that another member or two doesn't share your bullshit way of posting. CARNAGE......yea, thats what this site needs, just people waiting for carnage of other peoples engines.
I don't think a blower plus nitrous is a bad combo. I've been around some 2650 cars locally although they were newer LT cars not fbody's, but they are pretty impressive. If you wanted more than the blower can provide then a little nitrous for those needed moments would work well. That instant torque at any rpm and being able to leave off idle is fun for sure.
If the engine is built for the power level, the fuel system is up to the task, and the tune is good I don't see a problem with it.
Yea, I have a full Huron Speed A/C T4 turbo kit, just bought it recently from a member. I'm just asking about this idea because I can easily go the SC'er route if I want to. Like you said, and as I ahve mentioned.....the fun factor of a SC'er is what I see everyone liking that owns one. Lots of guys have owned both and it seems as if its hands down more fun than a Turbo set up. YES....turbo can make more power, but I have a goal and I'm open to either set up if I can hit that goal.
My engine install should be done in another week maybe. I plan to drive it N/A just fir a couple months. My T4 kit is for sale in the "MarketPlace", I'll get the T6 Huron Kit so I can go bigger turbo.....or maybe go this SC'er + Spray set up.
Aww... the "I was joking" excuse after being negative and non-helpful while turning the thread into a pissing match...LOL. Now I'm leaving because reasons...LOL.
PS...I don't recognize the OP or remember ever reading one of his threads. Even if he is as you describe it doesn't really mean you need to act the same way and try to antagonize him then play the victim...LOL...
I posted a thread here several months ago because my engine took a dump and couldnt figure out why so I had to take it out and it appeared as if my cam started shedding material and clogged my oil pump relief valve and it stuck open and I had zero oil pressure. So good thing I just removed the engine because it was toast. It was a fully forged engine and crank, rods and pistons were perfect, so I used them again.
I immediately bought a new 6.0 GEN4 block and bored it and honed it and assembled it with a local builder. Callies crank and rods and diamond pistons.
Bought the Huron Speed T4 kit but its not going to make what I want. So as said, its for sale on this site.
My boss's son has the Trackhawk with a pulley upgrade and tune and its just fun as hell. Its drives around like it has a HUGE incredibly responsive N/A engine. All of the turbo cars I've been in do NOT drive so smooth all the way through the rom range, you know what I mean, that perfect turbo combo is hard to nail down. And its nice to work on the entire system by just popping the hood and its basically all right there to wotk on, unlike a turbo set up.
hey mr i write checks instead of turn wrenches if you want maximum fun on the street get a model s plaid. nothing comes close and these days they are basically giving them away.
if you want to get serious i built custom brackets (myself, in my garage ) to install a racetech seat using stock seatbelt ill sell you.
So that spray bar sprays right there and just fogs directly into the screws?
Nitrous Express installed the bars.
Nitrous Outlet offers the same service.
I don't recall what the cost was.
The spray bars don't spray into the rotors.
They spray directly into the ports.
They can be installed as a wet system or dry.
Nitrous Express installed the bars.
Nitrous Outlet offers the same service.
I don't recall what the cost was.
The spray bars don't spray into the rotors.
They spray directly into the ports.
They can be installed as a wet system or dry.
Very cool. Yes, I saw afterwards that the ports are right there so its like a direct fogger idea.
hey mr i write checks instead of turn wrenches if you want maximum fun on the street get a model s plaid. nothing comes close and these days they are basically giving them away.
if you want to get serious i built custom brackets (myself, in my garage ) to install a racetech seat using stock seatbelt ill sell you.
LOL...oh man. We can't all build race cars and engines in our garages........LOL Imagine if 99.99% of us did that, there wouldn't be a single speed shop or store anywhere. This industry would be crap. WE are the street-strip industry, not you guys. But isn't it odd that "WE" never rag on people who do turn their own wrenches, we're actually impressed with you guys and wish we could do the same. Its ONLY you guys who do the ragging........funny ****. Are you a Libtard....LOL....just curious.
Anyway, my boss has a Plaid.......I've driven it several times. Its GAY. Yes, it pulls like a bitch......but electric is GAY. His son is slowly modding his Trackhawk to hopefully beat the Plaid. I told my boss when my car gets boosted and I hit or get close to my HP goal I'll whip him in a roll race, but no way from a dig as those cars just dead hook, its very strange how they hook like that. Maybe I can still beat it in the 1/4 mile AT A PREPPED TRACK, that would **** him off.
Anyway, I'm good, my seats are stock and still work perfectly.
Lol. Homophobic/political commentary aside (projection?) a plaid will stomp anything you ever own, especially from a roll.
you’re right though, it’s not a car-guy car. That’s why I sold mine.
as far as the industry… do you think people that turn their own wrenches don’t buy parts and tools? If anything the industry would do better because everyone would own a hp tuners interface, welders, tube benders, lifts, dynos, the list goes on and on. I assure you I have at least 5x the value in tools than cars and car parts.
i didn’t mean to rag on you as a check writer, **** I’m a former Tesla owner/attempted racer, mostly the comment insinuating that everyone working at home is lesser than someone that rents a shop at an industrial park.
Lol. Homophobic/political commentary aside (projection?) a plaid will stomp anything you ever own, especially from a roll.
you’re right though, it’s not a car-guy car. That’s why I sold mine.
as far as the industry… do you think people that turn their own wrenches don’t buy parts and tools? If anything the industry would do better because everyone would own a hp tuners interface, welders, tube benders, lifts, dynos, the list goes on and on. I assure you I have at least 5x the value in tools than cars and car parts.
i didn’t mean to rag on you as a check writer, **** I’m a former Tesla owner/attempted racer, mostly the comment insinuating that everyone working at home is lesser than someone that rents a shop at an industrial park.
good luck with your build.
Cars are beating Plaids. You never lost from a roll?
No. Nothing on the street I ran into was very close. A couple cars seemed to hang but the gap grew the faster we went. I’m talking just cars I run into. If you want to go hit tx2k and pick on some gallardos and gtrs then that’s a bit different, though a 40 roll I’d still put money on the Tesla. 60-80 roll the advantage starts to diminish.
Track was another story but I knew the plaids main advantage is being able to put more power down than anything else. I showed up to a no prep event at osw to run daily class and they kicked me out and put me in the 28” class (EVs stupid and scary at the same time) which is obvious how that turned out. Plus that ‘no prep’ track pulled my shoes off walking the starting line lol
The Tesla has its place and that’s limited traction or just day to day goofing around on the street. I drove mine from Florida to Virginia then ran bottom 9s with ZERO changes. Sure, put it in an organized drag racing event and you can say ha ha see it’s slow but that’s not why you buy one.
No. Nothing on the street I ran into was very close. A couple cars seemed to hang but the gap grew the faster we went. I’m talking just cars I run into. If you want to go hit tx2k and pick on some gallardos and gtrs then that’s a bit different, though a 40 roll I’d still put money on the Tesla. 60-80 roll the advantage starts to diminish.
Track was another story but I knew the plaids main advantage is being able to put more power down than anything else. I showed up to a no prep event at osw to run daily class and they kicked me out and put me in the 28” class (EVs stupid and scary at the same time) which is obvious how that turned out. Plus that ‘no prep’ track pulled my shoes off walking the starting line lol
The Tesla has its place and that’s limited traction or just day to day goofing around on the street. I drove mine from Florida to Virginia then ran bottom 9s with ZERO changes. Sure, put it in an organized drag racing event and you can say ha ha see it’s slow but that’s not why you buy one.
This is why the new RWHP goal for a lot of people is 1300 or so, like me. Its what it takes to walk away from a Plaid in a roll race. I know modding GTR's is more expensive than F-bodys but I'm thinking a Plaid will get spanked bad from any speed (except a dig) in a roll race by an F-Body if it has 1300 RWHP........no....?
This is how terrible a 1300 HP GTR beats a Plaid from a dig. I wish Fbody's had All-wheel drive. But there are videos of this happeneing with Plaids, even modded BMW's on the street from a dig are beating Plaids.
I quit following anything to do with teslas when I sold mine so I’m not sure what the latest is.
that video is at a track which like I said, favors the other car. Plaids can’t do burnouts but gtrs can.
I agree on the 1300 number that was what it seemed to be needed for an ice car to outpace a plaid but can you put 1300 down on the street?
i wanted to run true no prep with mine because that’s the biggest advantage a Tesla has is in traction limited environments. The second you can do a burnout or run on a road that’s already been run on the plaid loses it’s advantage very quickly. it seems like all the no prep stuff has turned into no prep in name only. Especially at my local track.
No prep isn't what it used to be. The money got big and that changed everything. Last I heard the fastest Tesla was around 5.7x or so 1/8th mile. That isn't even close to competitive in no prep or even back half events now. Of course, most of these cars aren't true street cars either with the exception of a short cruise just to say they drove it on the street. Living in the midwest small tire cars are running mid 4's on "no prep" front half events and I bet in other parts of the country there are even faster small tire cars.
I would think an fbody with suspension and tires with 1300 rwhp should run faster than 5.7x on a track. If racing awd cars like the tesla on the street you are going to need hoosier slicks.
I have a friend with a 4th gen, 402 ci, D1X and he's sprayed it, ran low 5s. I can ask him if how much he was spraying and whether (1) he reccomends it and (2) how much he was spraying, brand of nitrous kit, and whether it was a dry or wet setup.
Only oldtimers would remember that my Formula at one time had a YSI / 5.7 setup. When it worked it was a fun setup, let off the brake and go. I went 9.40@145 with it in 2003. Unfortunately I kept slinging belts. I ran a custom strut brace (idea sourced from a Mustang class racer) but that just added complexity, you'd have to take the strut brace off to change the belt. I think the newer blower setups work better though.
Rick Crawford has run a 1900 blower in his G8 to a 8.0 in the 1/4, and the bigger 2300 into the 7.90s. As far as I'm concerned he's the go-to guy for that kind of setup. That's with no nitrous, and at 3450 raceweight.
Turbo T6 kits have challenges but the obvious benefit is they make the most power (there are some PD blowers like the Copo one that can make a lot of power, maybe up to 1300). With my '67 which has a lot of street miles, once I got the obvious bugs figured out, the other thing I'm thinking about is the heat. I run a blanket but I'm contemplating adding some heat vents to the hood.
11-04-2023, 04:49 PM
) to install a racetech seat using stock seatbelt ill sell you.
