The Turbo TA is BACK!




It looks pretty good from a distance, but when you start getting up close and personal you see things such as.
Passenger side roof rail attached to the a-pillar

This is across the top of the windshield

Floors not closed in (this is drover side under the master)

Passenger side

Holes cut in the tops of the wheel tubs. This is passenger side

And driver

Powder coated over the drain plug for the rear end

Burn in new carbon dash

Hard to see, but the 4 link brackets are not sealed off. Also some great beadroll work

An example of the holes for the midplate

Looking at the firewall after paint

Detailed bead roll work


This is the engine side of the firewall on the driver side of the car

This is the cabin side of the firewall on the passenger side.

Hard to tell, but the sleeve for the mid plate bolts is crooked

Of the work that was actually done, some was really good. A lot of the cage work is very nice, and fits up very tight. Once you get into finish work though, that's another story. I stripped the car right away so I could have the chassis painted, something that should have been done already IMO. Since then I haven't done anything. I got it back home, put it on the lift and just ignore it. I was actually showing it to the old owner yesterday. I ended up getting mad about it, put it back in the air and went inside.

I threw the dash in more to just get it out of the way more than anything.

I figured that was a good idea, so I threw the door carbon in to get it out of the way as well

Then it was time to get a bit more serious and work on getting the rear end out of the car. I started by using the pro jack mounts on the 4 link brackets to hold up the car

Then I just worked, no pics, and just like magic the rear was out! I also threw in rear carbon pieces real quick.


After that I put the rest of the carbon pieces in before calling it a day. Here is the passenger floor, I didnt take a pic of the rear stuff

The main thing was to get the rear end out so I could put the tubs in. However, I am not sure if I am going to replace them or not, which is true for all of the carbon work. Well that's all for today, I recorded some stuff as well, so maybe I will throw together a video as well.

I threw the dash in more to just get it out of the way more than anything.

I figured that was a good idea, so I threw the door carbon in to get it out of the way as well

Then it was time to get a bit more serious and work on getting the rear end out of the car. I started by using the pro jack mounts on the 4 link brackets to hold up the car

Then I just worked, no pics, and just like magic the rear was out! I also threw in rear carbon pieces real quick.


After that I put the rest of the carbon pieces in before calling it a day. Here is the passenger floor, I didnt take a pic of the rear stuff

The main thing was to get the rear end out so I could put the tubs in. However, I am not sure if I am going to replace them or not, which is true for all of the carbon work. Well that's all for today, I recorded some stuff as well, so maybe I will throw together a video as well.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

Anyway, the main thing I wanted to get done was get the engine back in the car. You know, this thing

It was a massive pain in the ***, but I managed to get it in without losing a finger!



With that back in, I wanted to get the turbo in, so I did.


Here you can see, the turbo is rigid mounted to the frame

As you can tell. its not very far from lining up. I could at least get it closer, possibly even connected if I had a second set of hands. This turbo is decently heavy, so trying to move it around and bolt up the mount at the same time was a pain. Anyway the point was to see where the engine is positioned to see if I need to move it. I have to talk to some people who are a lot smarter than me to see what to do there. Hopefully between the motor plate and the mid plate we can get it set right.
I also threw the rear end in, but thats not very exciting.


It almost looks cool

That was all for Saturday, which brings us to today. I wanted to get the TBM brakes installed on the front. I wasn't sure how to lift the front with the back still up on stands. This worked out pretty well though.

Gross

I got them taken off, and cleaned up the hub all nice. Then I assembled the hat/rotor before grabbing the caliper bracket.

Too bad this is the wrong kit!!!

That was wonderful. Turns out I need a completely different kit that is also more money. Now I need to decide if I want to make any other changes at the same time. I was already thinking of doing drop spindles, I guess now would be as good of a time as any. The other option would be to just say **** it and front half it, but that seems pretty drastic.
That is all for this weekend. I should have a video up this week sometime where you can watch me struggle getting the engine in. Keep an eye out for that goodness.
Stock LS1 with 6 speed and stock rear
Stock LS1 with 76mm turbo, 6 speed, and stock rear
Stock LS1 with 76mm turbo, 6 speed, and MWC 9"
Stock LS1 with 76mm turbo, TH400, and MWC 9"
Texas Speed 6.0 (rods pistons), 76mm turbo, TH400, MWC 9"
LSNext iron block 427, 94mm turbo, TH400, MWC 9"
Sold to John with no engine or trans
LSX iron block 427, 94mm turbo, Power glide, MWC 9"
Sold to me with above combo. For now I am keeping the engine, trans, probably converter, and turbo. It of course has a J&E Fabricated 9" housing now. Long term I want to go big block with twins and back to a TH400, but to keep cost down I am going to use what I have and hope it works well. I will be redoing the turbo kit, probably getting rid of the truck manifold setup and the intercooler.
Stock LS1 with 6 speed and stock rear
Stock LS1 with 76mm turbo, 6 speed, and stock rear
Stock LS1 with 76mm turbo, 6 speed, and MWC 9"
Stock LS1 with 76mm turbo, TH400, and MWC 9"
Texas Speed 6.0 (rods pistons), 76mm turbo, TH400, MWC 9"
LSNext iron block 427, 94mm turbo, TH400, MWC 9"
Sold to John with no engine or trans
LSX iron block 427, 94mm turbo, Power glide, MWC 9"
Sold to me with above combo. For now I am keeping the engine, trans, probably converter, and turbo. It of course has a J&E Fabricated 9" housing now. Long term I want to go big block with twins and back to a TH400, but to keep cost down I am going to use what I have and hope it works well. I will be redoing the turbo kit, probably getting rid of the truck manifold setup and the intercooler.
There's a guy on YB with a 3rd gen, 555ci BBC and twin S485's making 1,800whp iirc.
Standard build with off the shelf parts, nothing crazy, its a total streetcar too.
I want more than 1800, but big block with twins is the cheapest and most reliable way to get those big numbers. There is a reason almost all of the top drag and drive cars use that base combo.
Of the work that was actually done, some was really good. A lot of the cage work is very nice, and fits up very tight. Once you get into finish work though, that's another story. I stripped the car right away so I could have the chassis painted, something that should have been done already IMO. Since then I haven't done anything. I got it back home, put it on the lift and just ignore it. I was actually showing it to the old owner yesterday. I ended up getting mad about it, put it back in the air and went inside.
Paying a shop to build a car for you only for them to completely botch the tin work among other things and then letting it go because the cage looks good is wild.
This kind of mindset will just ensure shops like this continue to put out subpar jobs, if J&E can't do bead work, then they should say as much.
I don't know what the OP paid to have the work done but there should have been at the very least a shop lead at J&E who was checking this work and should have caught the poor bead work detail and if there isn't a lead then that tells you everything you need to know about J&E.
Paying a shop to build a car for you only for them to completely botch the tin work among other things and then letting it go because the cage looks good is wild.
This kind of mindset will just ensure shops like this continue to put out subpar jobs, if J&E can't do bead work, then they should say as much.
I don't know what the OP paid to have the work done but there should have been at the very least a shop lead at J&E who was checking this work and should have caught the poor bead work detail and if there isn't a lead then that tells you everything you need to know about J&E.

The quality of SOME of the work is only a tiny bit of the overall problem anyway. I am more upset that almost half of what was agreed upon and paid for was not done at all. I would argue that things that were done, were not done 100% (no seat belt tabs, no paint etc.) Then we have missing parts to add to that.
I guess someone had to be first to stick up for the shop though. Maybe I just don't understand what it takes though LOL Stay tuned to see me not do this kind of work myself as I fix/finished everything I paid for.














