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Well, since my 5.3 is hurt, I'm going to pull it and slap in an L92 with a cam swap in it's place. Picked it up today at the pick and pull for $300. I only plan on cleaning it, doing new gaskets, and finding a good cheap cam to swap in it. I suspect it'll make a slight bit more power than my 5.3, lol.
Picking up an L92 for $300 is a steal! I forgot his name but another member on here has been making 1Kwhp with his SBE 6.2 in a Fox body for years now.
Picking up an L92 for $300 is a steal! I forgot his name but another member on here has been making 1Kwhp with his SBE 6.2 in a Fox body for years now.
Yeah, I couldn't believe my luck. Just went in to ask them about selling a Suburban for scrap, because I was going to buy it for the LC9 5.3, and the counter guy told me about the 6.2 in the yard. So I scrambled to go get tools and got it to the front counter with about 10 minutes to spare before they closed. There was another L92 sitting in a Suburban without an intake on it, I'm tempted to go get it just to flip it.
Been awhile since I've updated, but I got a lot done. Tore my engine down and didn't find anything that would have explained my low oil pressure problem, aside from my oil pump pickup O-ring being flattened a bit. My main bearings were in good shape, it was just my rod bearings that looked bad. I bought another set of bearings and decided to open up my clearances a bit, I'm now at .0027-.0028 on my rods instead of the .0022-.0023 I was at before. I do believe that oil control was my main culprit in my pressure problems, as my engine had no issues building pressure when my car was sitting still. So to remedy that, I've installed an Improved Racing baffle in my oil pan and a Canton Accusump oil accumulator. Those two things should go a long way to keep my pressures in check. I also installed the COPO Camaro pressure spring in my oil pump as I was never really happy with my high RPM max pressure. Another big change I made was switching from Rotella T6 oil to Driven DT40 at their recommendation. I really feel I had an oil foaming issue with the Rotella, and I never was happy running a diesel formulation in my engine, but it's what "everyone" recommended. We'll see if this new combination of parts makes a difference. I will say, after getting it back together and firing it up, my oil pressure increased by 10 PSI hot at idle, which is a good sign, especially since I've increased bearing clearances.
Besides the oil control improvements, I did a few more things over the winter. Installed a Hitmaster Clutch Tamer, a second Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, an oil temperature sender in my pan, added a second 44MM wastegate, installed a new brake booster as my old one had been sticking, and wired everything to be controlled by my Terminator X. In addition, I added a driveshaft speed sensor which necessitated buying a Strange chromoly pinion yoke. Unknown to me at the time, this yoke moved the U-joint mounting cups forward by 1/2" which meant my driveshaft no longer fit. Ended up buying an aluminum shaft from a member on here and also selling my chromoly shaft to another member, so the cash outlay was minimal. I also ordered a pair of double adjustable UMI lower control arms with Roto-joints, but they're backordered so I won't see them for awhile. I'm nearly done wiring in relays to control my Accusump either by manual switch or through the Holley, and that should be the last bit of wiring I need to complete. I decided to mount my Accusump up front on the driver's side frame rail so it's close to the engine and won't be fighting G-forces to push oil into the engine, so I'm having my fab guy make me a couple of brackets to mount it. Once those are done, everything will be complete.
Well, almost everything. I have one big project left but I'm giving myself a breather before I do it. I bought everything I need to swap out my 4.30 gears and spool for a set of 3.54s and a Detroit Truetrac. As I'm not super experienced in setting up rear axles, I wanted to give myself time to focus solely on that project. Everything else I've done has been simultaneous and it was hard to keep things straight. When I do the job, I'll also be replacing the tailshaft seal on my trans and the pinion seal. Time for some pics of my progress: These cribs are the best thing I've built for doing major work on my car. Dropping everything out. Pretty empty in there! I'm quite limited on garage space. New wastegate bung New DEI titanium wrap. Second gate has much better priority than the first. Not thrilled about the proximity to the air filter. Kind of a plumbing nightmare. Oil temp sender where oil level sensor used to be. Had to add a microswitch on my clutch pedal to control some things. I now have 4 separate switches/sensors on it! New driveshaft and speed sensor installed.
More pics: Wiring fun Old booster being pulled Accessing these bolts is a huge pain! Booster out! New booster installed Clutch tamer valve installed, completely hidden except for the adjustment ****. 2nd Boost-A-Pump Wiring Tying into the hotwire harness Completely hidden Accusump Mounting bands Improved racing accumulator adapter Accusump solenoid valve Accusump mocked up for test fitting PTFE line leaving the Accusump valve PTFE line going into accumulator adapter Tire could get pretty close at full lock ( this is looking directly upward )
Those cribs are handy. I made a set as well, but I got a set of wheel dollies from harbor freight and took the wheels off. Then screwed them to the top of my cribs. My thought is that they would help keep the tires round.
Those cribs are handy. I made a set as well, but I got a set of wheel dollies from harbor freight and took the wheels off. Then screwed them to the top of my cribs. My thought is that they would help keep the tires round.
Best to you!
I added a piece of 1/2" plywood to the tops of mine between the 2x4s, and it seems to help with flat spots.
Thanks, John. I took it to a local car meet on Monday, then on Tuesday I got it aligned and was going to test out some of my new inputs and outputs when I suddenly started having electrical issues with my CAN I/O module. My speed sensors wouldn't read and my laptop connection kept dropping out. I thought it might be tune related, but it turns out the CAN connector on the Terminator X main harness must have faulty crimps or a broken wire, etc. I'd touch it and wiggle it, and it would repeatedly cut in and out. So I gotta cut that connector off and replace it with a DT connector so it's a far more reliable connection.
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