You ever feel like bill jenkins shifting that thing lmao

 

So, it might have just been placebo effect but when I street raced my last car and the BOV was stuck closed it didn't drop boost on the shift.
Once I fixed the BOV it would dump boost on the shift and the car felt slower between shifts.
Perhaps find a way to block the BOV vacuum signal while racing until the end of the run with the Holley?
Stupid idea or no?

 

More like Leeroy Jenkins LOL, every time you race it you have accepted the fact that you are literally just sending it as hard as you can and one wrong shift is going to be expensive!

 

I would just use the clutch pedal switch as an ignition cut/2nd rev limiter type deal and do a WOT shift. Anytime you are closing up the throttle it's going to cut airflow through the engine that drives the turbos regardless of what your BOV is doing. I'll have to look up one of my old datalogs from when I was just doing WOT shifts with ignition cut on the clutch pedal that shows the difference, it's pretty crazy.

 

This is how my 2 step is set up, I have two tables - one is a timing modifier to drop timing so it won't rev, the other is AFR modifier to dump extra fuel in to spool the turbo. All I would need to do is remove the "activate only below 5 MPH" on the timing table ( but keep the "activate only below 5 MPH on the AFR modifier" so it engages all the way down the track and I should be able to no lift shift it. With this Hitmaster, I can program it so it kicks on for a split second on shifts so all of the slack is taken up in the gears before full clamp pressure is achieved, therefore eliminating the chance that the gears will get broken from shock loading it with the flat shift. At least, that's my theory.

 

I inadvertently did something similar. I installed a 3an dry brake fitting in my clutch line. The internal orifice was too small and it was "acting" like the hit master, slowly bleeding off clutch line pressure. This was causing slip in between gear changes. Yes, less shock on the drivetrain but definitely hurt the overall ET. Maybe you can dial it in more with the hit master. Just my thoughts on it.

 

I'm pretty sure it won't be difficult to dial it in using the Holley system. I can activate the solenoid using timers at different speeds, such as below 25 MPH it engages for .75 sec. and above 50 MPH I can have it engage for say .25 sec. whenever the clutch pedal is pressed. I have a 0-5V sensor on my clutch pedal so I can figure out exactly where the bite point is with my clutch and trigger the solenoid accordingly. It'll take some dialing in, I'm sure. I'll run it directly off an output coming from my Terminator, as I don't want any delay by using the CAN I/O box.

 

I'm very curious to see you get this thing dialed in.
Perhaps you should start another thread on it?

 

I don't see any reason to try to complicate it with the hitmaster for WOT shifts. I was doing it on a totally stock TR6060 making 1200 rwhp and never had an issue, looking at the logs it is "cushioning" the impact to the trans with the clutch already and was never harsh so to speak. If your 2 step is setup that way with just having large negative timing and adding fuel I would rather just use a secondary limiter function for the WOT shifts and just leave the 2 step config alone for launching.

 

I am not using Rev Limiter #1 in the software, would I be able to trigger that without using a manual switch? IIRC, you have to have a switch like a trans brake button in order to engage it. I wouldn't mind using it if there's a way to have it trigger each time the clutch is depressed above a certain speed.

 

Once I get it out for the year and take it to the track, I'll probably do a video dialing it in. Most likely will go to a private road first to get it roughed in. I just bought a Detroit Truetrac so I'll be getting my 3.54s in with that sooner than later, and those will help tame down my starting line ratio and make it more manageable off the line.

 

I would tie it into the clutch pedal switch and for starters set it to the RPM that you will drop down to on the shift. Each gear will be slightly different but just pick an RPM somewhere in the middle of them as I haven't found the exact RPM to be super critical. You just want to get it in the ballpark. Now this also depends on where your clutch starts to bite vs where the clutch switch turns on/off and I don't recall on the f-bodies if it's at the top of the travel or bottom of the clutch pedal travel so you may have to play with possibly changing it's location a bit. Over a certain speed is not really necessary so I wouldn't worry about that.

 

I don't use the actual clutch switch for anything. I have a 2" travel Lowdoller Motorsports shock sensor attached to my pedal to get a 0-5v reading through my pedal travel. Works well. So I would be able to use that and dial it in. The reason I need to make it happen above a certain speed is it would interfere with my 2 step on launch. I'd have a timing retard and a rev limiter engaging at the same time.

 

The gear swap will help you.

What is your ET goal for 2026?

 

I'd like to crack the 10's at minimum. Considering I'm .05 away from a 10.99, I don't see that being a problem. If I can get all the bugs worked out and really dial it in, I'd like to see a 9.99. But that might be pretty hard with a stick shift on drag radials.

 

What upper radiator hose are you running?

 

I believe it's just a factory stock 4th Gen F-body hose.

 

You should get there for sure with the parts that you have and running E85. I had to search back through my videos of when I ran my old Camaro after I finished up the turbo setup and I went 10.63 @ 133 with a really old T-76 turbo on only 10 psi of boost on pump gas. It was 18 years ago at this point so some of the details are fuzzy and I'm not claiming to be good at launching a manual trans car at the track but I'm just saying, you got that easily.

 

Bangin gears away

 

Well, since my 5.3 is hurt, I'm going to pull it and slap in an L92 with a cam swap in it's place. Picked it up today at the pick and pull for $300. I only plan on cleaning it, doing new gaskets, and finding a good cheap cam to swap in it. I suspect it'll make a slight bit more power than my 5.3, lol.