gametech

iTrader: (1)

So this was a pain to get put together. I have just had heads/cam power with the GTO since I took off the rear mount turbo years ago. Time to play with the twins.

ScottStaypuff

A lot going on there!

gametech

iTrader: (1)

So of course on the first daylight test drive one of the craptastic chinesium oil feed hoses broke inside the braided stainless covering, and dumped over half my oil out of the car before I made it back to my driveway. Drove to summit and picked up an ICT Billet hose. Hopefully that clears up that issue.

Full Power

Defective Xhinese hose part of a packaged "KIT" ( like ON3 ) or an individual ebay treasure ?
Think you hurt the turbo bearings ?
Ever hear of anyone running a turbo feed line pressure sensor ( Not a gauge, but a warning light )
Tee into turbo feed line, insert a normaly closed pressure switch, prominent warning light on dash, goes OUT around 15 or 20 PSI.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

The defective hose was part 2 of a double whammy. One of the hoses in the "kit" had a bad AN thread end, so being in a hurry, I replaced it with an Amazon special. The Amazon special was the one that broke. I doubt anything was hurt but the soaked turbo blanket. However, instead of 30 to 40psi oil pressure when I pulled in my driveway, I was down to 15psi at idle. The oil I had to replace cost more than the price difference between the cheap hose and the ICT hose. I was not even trying to be cheap, I was just in a hurry. Working too much OT to get to a parts store during the week, and I wanted the car running before the weekend, so I took my chances with a same day shipping item. Thankfully nothing caught fire, but times like that are why an extinguisher goes with me on any new build test drive.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

I saw an interesting post somewhere that had a burned feed line, blanket covered the fitting, hose, and burned thru-I don't think it was the Teflon lined hose though. The fitting used on the turbo seemed like it would introduce more heat to the line, and being covered. I realize not what happened to yours, but keeping the fittings exposed to air seems a good idea.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

I am in full agreement. The fitting is at the top where the blanket does not cover. Eventually I will likely get rid of the blankets, but that will require different wire routing and heat shielding.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

And I thought it was tight under the hood of my 4th gen lol.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

No kidding. Space is so tight I just ordered the only aftermarket headlight assemblies available for this car because it looks like they will give me a tiny bit more room for the air filters. As is I had to trim the headlight housings and dent the tiny mushroom filters just to fit them at all. And I just heat wrapped the windshield washer fluid tank neck after a test drive today started to melt it. Not sure if that would have been a problem with the factory tank or not, but the aftermarket one could not take the heat. In other news, traffic has gotten a lot worse since the last time I had to tune a new turbo build. Could not find room to go past 6psi today. The spool is a little lazy on these twins for now, but I believe that is due to my leaving the timing pretty low until I get the fuel dialed in. Also due to breaking traction in 1st and 2nd gear as soon as boost starts to hit. The NT01s would already start spinning at the top of 1st without boost, so this will be interesting. Probably going to be weeks before I can access my neighbor's dyno, so street tuning will have to do for now.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

I have the same problem, too many people around.
I had to go out to my buddy's house outside the city and make rips at 11pm and later.
Even then I had to time it right, but at least the air is good in the evening lol.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

Finally got the fueling close enough to put in a couple more degrees of timing, and it definitely made a difference in spool time. The "8lb" wastegate springs are only giving me just under 7lbs, so I am only hitting 65%DC on the 60lb injectors on pump 93. This means I should have enough injector to run e85 on spring pressure, so now I have a decision to make. Do I flip the switch on the boost controller and crank it up on pump 93, or go ahead and buy bigger injectors so I can run e85 on higher boost? I know the right answer, but my wallet keeps arguing. The motor is an aluminum 5.7 with ported 317 heads, Fast 90 intake, and a .226/.230 cam on a 113lsa. However, I am hesitant to turn it up too much on pump 93 with the stock ring gap. Back when I ran 10lbs on a rear mount single I was on the stock heads and cam and spraying 100% meth to bandaid a weak fuel system.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I'd probably start by deleting the stock MAF

gametech

iTrader: (1)

That is merely a place holder until I put a piece of straight pipe in. I had it deleted with the old turbo, then figured I may as well put it back while just running heads/cam. It is not involved in the tune at all now. I was thinking of getting an aluminum reducer elbow and get rid of most of that silicone.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

I ran 14 lbs. on pump 91 only on an unopened SBE LS1 for years without issues, it had about 95,000 miles on it at the time.
317 heads, LS1 intake, cam was a 230/230 115 LSA iirc.
I'd run E85 but where I live there is only one station and its nowhere near me so I stay on pump 91 for now, if E85 is readily available and you drive frequently then I say take the leap.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

I already have the car set up for flex fuel, with a content sensor and the appropriate PCM changes. The issue is whether or not I want to spend the money on big enough injectors to run e85 at higher boost. Trying to talk myself into spending for a set of ID1050's.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Not Bosch 210's?
If it were me and if the car is tuned and running well, I'd enjoy it for the summer on pump gas, save up for the bigger injectors to install over the winter.
Just my $.02

gametech

iTrader: (1)

I am never going to push this car anywhere near maxing out 1050's. Definitely don't need all the extra headache of Bosch 210's. If Deka 80's were as good as the 60's I would get a set of them, but they are too inconsistent at low pulsewidths. I am considering plumbing in a backpressure sensor just out of curiosity. At low boost these twins should not be much more than a 1 to 1 ratio, but I don't know if running the stock catback will have a big effect on that. I like having the stock sound until the wastegates start dumping out of open pipes.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Ah I see, I've got a set of FIC1000's in my car currently that I may be looking to sell this winter to move to a set Bosch 210's if you're interested.
FIC Flow Max 1000 CC For LS | Fuel Injector Connection

91 Z28

iTrader: (3)

What do you find the headache to be with Bosch 210's?? I personally have zero issues with them. They idle great on pump 91 and 94 and everywhere in between up to 18#'s boost

gametech

iTrader: (1)

For one thing, there are tons of fakes floating around. Even with a legit set of injectors, you then have to go with a source you trust has flow matched them properly. And on top of that, everyone I have seen or read talking about good idle and zero issues with any injector that oversized for the application generally has a large cam in front of a high stalled auto, so I take that with a grain of salt.