emajioo

no problem! and depends on how far the shop is, like absolute max 4 miles. but personally if it were me I would stop driving it asap. If an unknown variable caused that much blowby theres no telling what other things might get affected afterwards, especially if you're gonna be swapping parts into a new motor

Jstue

the new oil was black when it came out this morning. It’s still semi translucent. I’ll park her. Again.

thanks for the guidance, again.

Say I didn’t hurt the current block beyond repair and purchase Forged pistons and rods installed. Would the block have to come out anyway because of machine work required for the installation? Or could the Pistons and rods be installed without removing the motor? Cutting some corners on labor?

Or no matter what the block has to come out?

I want to do it right, but I’m trying to think about it from every perspective taking in guidance you have provided. Seems like I have several options give her life again.

emajioo

No problem brotha, and unfortunately things are pointing towards yanking that motor out all the way, if you plan on keeping your displacement, callies, TSP, mahle, etc. have rods and piston combos that'll drop right in. But having that motor on a stand will be a lot easier to work on rather than laying underneath the motor, it is possible but not that much fun. If you plan on doing it yourself it'll take a little bit longer, but you'll learn a ton about what you're working with. Either way, you can't go wrong, shop built/garage built.

Jstue

Trying to land a lift for a week at some buddies spots -
i would love to do it myself and have all the time but in between houses and couldn’t be a worse time for failure at this level. I don’t have a garage I’m staying at an extended stay America.

doing some research based on everything I’ve learned today (thank you). I’ll update with the approach and resolution.

emajioo

Hell yeah man a lift would be great to work with. And sorry to hear that, there’s always horrible timing for something. But I’ll stick around, best of luck to ya and keep us updated!

cheers buddy,
E

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

I would trouble shoot to find out exactly what is wrong with the current motor and how it happened before making any decisions.

Jstue

To clarify - that’s the labor rate I got quoted from local performance shops around the area in NOVA for pulling the motor out and installing a Texas Speed 427 short block + required fluids etc. Not dropping off the short block to have rods and pistons put in.

Full Power

My first boost motor was a 4.8 had a144,000 miles on it- paid $600 for the motor, Magnuson TVS1900 has been blowing 11 PSI since 2016, been trhough 3 Canadian Provinces, and 11 states, Grand Canyon, Texas, back in Alaska now has 220,000 miles. Can run 6000 miles and have 2 OUNCES of CLEAN oil in the catch can. Fill it wth 7 quarts at oil change, NEVER had to add any oil, ever. 8 years of boost with 4.56 gears, and I drive it like a teenager beating his stepdad's car.
.
Current project: JUST Installed VSR 78/75 on a 5.3 Suburban: 188,000 mile on it, paid $1500 for the vehicle in running condition.
new cam TSP 208/214 .550" "low Lift" and Valve Springs, but I am playing with stock high mile bottom end, and having lot's of fun.
I'll be pushing 12 PSI manifold pressure as soon as 60# Injectors show up. My BOOST pressure is mostly limited by statewide fuel availability: Premium pump gasoline is 90 Octane here. 12 pounds is okay on 90 octane..

Nothing wrong with spending thousands of dollars building a motor, nothing wrong at all. BUT: is say again BUT: Do your first few iterations of BOOST practice on a CHEAP stock bottom end. Learn what you are doing, what these LS motors can take, how to build a spark map, how to tune Power enrichment, **** around with 600 dollar motors BEFORE you spend 600 dollars on a set of rods.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

I would do a comp test, pinpoint the bad cyl (cyls), bore scope it, see what you have. Most likely the engine has to come out, but if a hole in the piston, bore is good, could get away with a new piston. Some of the diff body styles make it hard to get to the plug area. If the engine has to come out, could do a hone, forged pistons, reuse rods if straight, (I have seen some bent gen 4 rods). Would still have to balance the engine. Not having a place to work kind of wipes out budget work.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

What ^he said.

emajioo

hey man, its been about a month, just checking on how things are going with your ride.

E