So like title says maybe it's a coping mechanism or now having that ability to do whatever I want without question (not knocking it or anything on those lines, it's a great thing for many people and something to envy if you make it work.) But I want even more power. Currently it's a 00 manual as far as I know bone stock minus the d1sc. I already know I want the brute speed blower cam, ls7 or stronger clutch, was planning on getting some 317s I had picked up built to match the cam, headers, duals, have a ls6 intake sitting but could get a fast if it would work better, and the red blow off valve. I know I'll need injectors, I'll blow the axle when I get better tires that grab. I've read about upgrading the pulleys but guess I just don't know if there's anything else to be looking into outside of brakes and such to stop it. The car scene where I live now is so much better and it has me motivated on top of the current situation. Not against going to a 6.0 and or a p1sc but also trying to keep it somewhat within reason. I don't have a set "I want 700 wheel" but I definitely want to be confident next to hellcats, gtrs, etc but also just want a car to have a blast in and have it sound good. It's also only got 50k miles so it's somewhat fresh for being almost 25.

 

Great thread title 🙂

Lots of guys are in the poorhouse after a divorce…. nice to see that you avoided that situation.

 

Yeah I got lucky that's for sure. She's a good woman and made everything easy. On to the next chapter i suppose.

And thanks, I thought it would grab attention.

 

Get the D1sc upgraded to a D1x?

 

Those Hellcats are brutally fast especially with the 8-speed auto.
My buddies stock Hellcat Challenger will hang with a local guys SN95 with a built terminator engine, Whipple blower, manual car which he claims is nearly 800whp, so you'll need to make some jam.
The challenge is that SBE LS1 of yours, popular opinion is once you go over 600whp its basically a grenade with the pin half pulled.
I made 700whp with my last SBE LS1 car for years which I credit largely due to the tuner (Pat G.), that would be my goal if I was you because it is very doable and easy without getting too crazy.
My old combo was an SBE LS1 on 14 lbs. of boost pump gas only, 317 CNC heads, LS6 intake w/ stock TB, mystery turbo cam, deka 80lb. injectors, stock fuel system with twin pumps in the tank with one pump on a Hobbs switch so a very simple setup.
Pony up for a decent twin disk because you'll end up there anyway, I ran the Monster S Series twin disk and it was a fantastic piece, stock pedal effort and drivability plus its rebuildable, singles in the 700whp range tend to be harsher.
You'll need to build the trans at some point so start saving for a used built unit or save up for a Magnum would be the move, same with the rear end, the Moser 12 bolt isn't bad, just tends to whine so I'd look for a 9" or an S60 if that might bother you.
Don't forget the driveshaft, the factory aluminum one tends to blow apart with decent horsepower and traction, there's a steel one that can be found in the V6 cars iirc.
Procharger claims the D1SC is good to 925chp so I'd focus on the things above since the limiting factor will be the SBE LS1 anyway, then upgrade the blower once the foundation is set.
If you can run E85, that would be a big help or if you're limited to pump gas like I am, a methanol injection kit might be worth considering.
Just my $.02.

 

My beliefs are opposite of what most think. I feel a procharger is actually easier on the entire drivetrain due to its linear power delivery. Sure, it runs off the crank, which is why most think it's harder on things, but I haven't seen a crank break due to a d1x or d1sc procharger. Heck I've been running an f1a-94 at 20 psi peak with a stock crank for a couple years now after running the same motor for a few years with a d1x prior to that.

I ran a sbe ls1 with stock heads at 14 psi for a couple years and never did hurt it on pump gas. I sold that short block when I knew I wanted more. It looked perfectly fine when I opened it up.

A d1x is going to make more power with lower IAT than a D1sc which helps. If you can run e85 that sbe will be fine at 700 rwhp.

I run e85 and meth but if I could only run one or the other, I would choose e85 over meth every time.

Keep things cool enough with e85 or meth and you will not have any issues with the ring gaps either.

Nothing is infallible plenty of people break built motors even with good tuning, but it should hold up to 700 rwhp for a while with good fuel and low IAT's.

You are also at least 600 pounds lighter than a hellcat.

 

Put in a 9" or 12bolt and get some money back for your stock rear end is where I would begin! I wouldn't even change the heads.... do a cam, injectors, keep the LS6 intake, e85 tune and it should move out with more boost. It's going to be a crazy snowball beyond that.... or sell it as it and buy one already built up and save tons of $$$$$. There are tons of fast cars for sale on marketplace right now. A ton.

 

I can tell you from experience that gnx7 is right. I only did a heads/cam package on my Formula and I was breaking my 10 bolt constantly. Even street driving, I cracked some teeth on the ring and pinion. It won't hold up, especially if you want to add power. My S60 was the best investment I have made on my car. I have zero worry that it will break, and I'm easily in the 700 RWHP range. I also added a chromoly driveshaft at the same time, since my stock one no longer fit and it made no sense to shorten it. The suggestion for a twin disc clutch is also a solid one, I'm running a full Tilton ST-246 package from Tick Performance that works great. You definitely will need a trans build as well, mine is a Stage 4 and I'm still going to upgrade to a Magnum-F due to my worry that the T-56 gear pack just won't hold up. Yep, you're looking at an easy $10K investment just to bulletproof your drivetrain. You *could* simply just add power and throw caution to the wind, but you WILL start breaking parts, it's just a matter of when.

 

After my divorce I went with the Huron Speed APS style TT kit and TFS heads....FAST 102...fuel system...

It puts a smile on my face everytime I drive it.

 

Take a look at the new P1R head unit from procharger. Slightly larger than a P1x and makes more power than an F1a and just slightly less than an F1a-94. They have the P1R rated at 1250 hp with the F1a at 1200 and the F1a-94 at 1300.

 

I’ve been divorced since 1987 and still looking for more power. 😊

 

headers, cam, valve springs, ls6 intake, I don't think I'd get a FAST or swap to a lower compression cylinder head like the 317s.

Pump gas or ?

 

divorce made me build my first turbo ls truck lol where i discovered a sbe and a turbo are as much fun as what 20g does into a small block without the stress and i can get pizzas with it.lol
good luck

 

Sorry life has been....interesting in the best ways since relocating to my home state, getting new work, etc. So since this post I found some 18/17 c5 zo6 rims. They are at that shop getting tires now because even very casual driving on a damp road I spin out easy it's insane, my old 00 firebird amd 98z28 were never this bad. I also bought SE 1 7/8 LT headers, debating on selling the hooker black hearts for 3inch duals because i want loud, bought a fiberglass ws6 hood which I know won't add speed but the ws6 took my heart as a little kid so I had too.
I found a lq4 for $600 with 220k miles I'm really debating on grabbing and building from the pistons up or just using that money instead and get my cam and valve train going in the ls1. I went out again last night and lost to some crazy bmw so I'm a little butt hurt at the moment lol
as far as rear, driveshaft, trans, etc go i think i would be the type to run it till it breaks kind of guy.
oh also cool thing is for the first time in my life I have access to e85, it's like 5 miles away if even and right in the heart of where all the cars come out to play on weekends so totally could run it with ease of access

 

Several things on the drive it till it breaks mentality, on cheap parts that's fine.
Even a used T56 is incredibly expensive these days, very possible to break one and damage the case, then instead of just rebuilding a working unit, you may now be looking at $2,000 just for another working stock unit only to then have it built.
Second is the diff, I knew a guy who thought the same only his diff broke, locked up and he crashed the car.
Lastly is the driveshaft, I've seen those break and damage both the diff and the trans and even sometimes the engine.
Keep the power down and make the tires are spinning for now.
Watch the classifieds for a used diff and stage 2 T56 or Magnum, I see them pretty regularly.
Source a steel drive shaft from a V6 car or pony up and get one from someone, my MWC aluminum unit is really nice.

 

these are all very fair points in not thinking about if A breaks it can cause B, guess I just have go faster parts on the brain. I still at this point really want to get going on my exhaust, intake, and the brute speed blower cam for the sound aspect. I love my procharger but want that rumble exhaust tone and have most everything to do it currently.
I just got the rear wheels swapped for the c5 18s, running nitto 295/35 and this thing still just spins the hell out of them and the back end SLIDES like crazy. Maybe I'm just romping it to hard because with the traction control on it definitely doesn't spin like that anymore. Already been doing my work on reading about lowering, rear lca upgrades and relocation, etc. When grip is resolved I figure that's when I really start risking everything else you mentioned, at least a lot more so than I currently do.
I am definitely not use to dealing with the supporting mods that come with this level of power let alone adding to it. If I could be safely, for me and the car, be at north of 600hp or close to it I think I would be happy lol.

 

If you haven't done so yet, I'd put subframe connectors on it as one of the first mods. Bob
98-02 Camaro/Firebird Subframe Connectors at Brute Speed

 

I'd replace the differential before the transmission.
My stock T56 lived behind my 600whp turbo setup for about two years before it started popping out of third on decel, that's a telltale sign that things are getting worn out.
Don't bang shift it or reef on it, keep the harder tires on it for now and it'll live for a bit.
Those spindly stock 7.5" diffs are way weaker, they'll break with stock HP if you abuse them.
You'll just have to learn to apply judicious amounts of throttle under power, my last car was a T56 car at about 700whp and with the Nitto NT05's, you had to be on point with the throttle application.
Hence the guy I sold the car to wadded it up in less than a month.
Also, definitely what Bob mentioned about sub-frame connectors too, totally forgot about those.
The UMI spider brace works really well and ties everything together nicely.
Go ahead and do the items you mentioned, just be kind to the trans/diff and it'll help.
Suspension mods will definitely help, an aftermarket diff will have three to four different spots for LCA mounting which will really help.
A better torque arm would also help.
You'll be alright, just keep a sticky tire off it for now, if the tires are spinning then nothing is breaking immediately lol.

 

I have a ProCharged 01 TA with the D1SC on 10ish lbs. My car makes 653/585 and is a blast to drive.

The car has the Tick Performance Stage 2 blower cam. its 227/243 .625/.615 LSA 115+4. I love the cam and it has a great sound, good bit of chop for 115 LSA. <---Id recommend it. with all the supporting valvetrain & pushrod upgrades.

I have the Monster twin disc LT1-S with the tick master and it feels very stock. Well as stock as anything with the Tick Master 2/3rds ish pedal travel when adjusted.

The 9" does have a whine to it but its not that annoying.

Dont forget some head studs if you plan on really cranking up the boost along with the sub frame connectors. if you plant all of it you want to keep the car from twisting too much.

 

I just picked up a 6.0L iron block on a steal of a deal. Plan for it is a brute speed blower cam, matching springs and SS valves into the 317s, ls6 intake I have sitting around, gen 4 style rods and pistons, swap out the pullies on the procharger for the 7.625 crank and I think it was a 3.4 blower pulley on a 8 rib, obviously way bigger injectors, studs, ordered a big red procharger valve, going to go fmic, been going back and forth with either e85, meth, or both, there's a very interesting thread about swapping the ecu from a van and playing in the programming to make the car be flexfuel capable, also I am taking the advice of many on here about supporting mods as well ie rear, tranny, driveshaft, rebuild ALL the suspension, etc. I have a few projects to do on this car that has turned into a nightmare but it's a passion project so itll all get done. The goal eventually is to take the ls1 and swap it into something 4x4 and make that a daily and then have the bird be a toy.