ProCharger
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 635
Likes: 329
From: Missouri
p1sc1 or p1x if you like noisy get the straight cut gears if you want it stealthy get helical gears ( i love straight cut and the big red race valve open to atmosphere cause its loud and proud) now if you plan on getting serios in the future than you could always go bigger but for a fun street car you dont need a huge blower.
What car is it going in?
I actually recommend the D1x because some day you will want more. Spend the extra cash up front to get the upgrades. It will make everything much more enjoyable and issue free to buy the upgraded intercooler, bracket(depending on car), good balancer, larger diameter crank pulley, big red bov, etc.
I actually recommend the D1x because some day you will want more. Spend the extra cash up front to get the upgrades. It will make everything much more enjoyable and issue free to buy the upgraded intercooler, bracket(depending on car), good balancer, larger diameter crank pulley, big red bov, etc.
I would contact Bob at Brutespeed for the best price and information.
They have a better bracket/tensioner for the fbody now. I would recommend the race kit with the large 1300 hp race intercooler, red blow off valve, 8 rib setup with the larger crank pulley, ati balancer, and d1x head unit. This will probably be close to 9g currently but Bob can give you the lowest price.
A little more $ up front will save you down the road if you ever want more power and it will make it more enjoyable. If you want any of these upgrades later it will be a lot more money so get them now.
They have a better bracket/tensioner for the fbody now. I would recommend the race kit with the large 1300 hp race intercooler, red blow off valve, 8 rib setup with the larger crank pulley, ati balancer, and d1x head unit. This will probably be close to 9g currently but Bob can give you the lowest price.
A little more $ up front will save you down the road if you ever want more power and it will make it more enjoyable. If you want any of these upgrades later it will be a lot more money so get them now.
P1x is better suited for a stock bottom end LS1. D1x will require a larger pulley that only makes 4psi @ peak torque to keep it under 10psi @ peak hp. A friend of mine ran a pulley(3.9?) that made 13psi at 7k rpm just to get it to make 7psi right around stall speed 3800-4000rpm. This was a SBE H/C LS1 with a 224/228 112 cam. It made it 1 season befor the rods left the chat. Granted it had about 20 bottles of N20 ran through it over the course of 2-3 seasons before going to the Procharger setup. It was on E85 with 19 degrees of timing and plugs looked good. Just made more power than what stock rod bolts can handle. So, I would recommend not running that much boost.
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Meh I ran 14 psi on 91 octane for 3 years with a D1x on sbe ls1 never did hurt it. Decided to go to a forged bottom end so I could run an f1a-94 at 20 psi so I sold the ls1 and it’s still going today.
Tune is everything no issue with too much boost at low rpm with a Procharger.
Tune is everything no issue with too much boost at low rpm with a Procharger.
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Well I don't believe the tune was the issue, it was making more power than the bottom end can handle but feel free to believe what you want. Boost is just a measure of restriction anyway. This LS1 was 11.5:1 and had really good heads/intake.... it wouldn't run pump gas with that kind of boost and compression. E85, mid 11's afr, and 19 degrees peak timing with a br7 plug isn't anything on the ragged edge.
LOL... most of us here are way passed the "boost is a measure of restriction" point but go ahead and treat us like we are all stupid. Yes, we know the difference between volume and pressure. It's also not our fault you decided to run 11.5 to 1 static compression with boost. A stock bottom end or even a forged bottom end wouldn't like mid 11's afr with 19 degrees timing at 11.5 to 1 static compression. That's on you. I ran 14 psi on a stock bottom end ls1 cam only stock heads with headers, no cats, full exhaust at only 12 degrees peak timing on 91 octane obviously much lower compression than 11.5 to 1. That motor has lived a long life and yes I drag raced it.
Current motor is 10.5 to 1 compression at 18 degrees peak timing with a br7 on e85 and a small meth nozzle. The plugs show the timing mark on the bend it could take another degree but why push it that far and it would be closer to it's limits.
So yes 19 degrees at 11.5 to 1 compression on a sbe is asking for trouble. That's on you.
Current motor is 10.5 to 1 compression at 18 degrees peak timing with a br7 on e85 and a small meth nozzle. The plugs show the timing mark on the bend it could take another degree but why push it that far and it would be closer to it's limits.
So yes 19 degrees at 11.5 to 1 compression on a sbe is asking for trouble. That's on you.
460 WHP through an auto 5.7 sounds like kind of a hot setup that is HCI and boltons. Would need more engine and stall details to make a rec. Also, is there a power goal in mind? Agree with getting the good bracket and pulley systems as stated above. I would consider shopping around for an intercooler though as purchasing the Procharger race intercooler means your kids are going to community college if they are lucky.
LOL.. that is one good reason to get the 1300 hp large procharger intercooler up front with the kit. It's only a $275 upgrade on the brute speed website if you purchase it with the kit from the get go. If you want to buy it alone later to upgrade, it is stupid money. All the upgrades make the kit a lot more expensive, but you will end up wanting that stuff later and its waaayyy more expensive buying the upgrades individually later on.
Bob can give you a better price if you call him as well.
Bob can give you a better price if you call him as well.
LOL.. that is one good reason to get the 1300 hp large procharger intercooler up front with the kit. It's only a $275 upgrade on the brute speed website if you purchase it with the kit from the get go. If you want to buy it alone later to upgrade, it is stupid money. All the upgrades make the kit a lot more expensive, but you will end up wanting that stuff later and its waaayyy more expensive buying the upgrades individually later on.
Bob can give you a better price if you call him as well.
Bob can give you a better price if you call him as well.
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
Curious if you guys are using an 8 rip or 12 rib belt, if you have that option. Obs prob less slip with 12 rib (I used to use 2-6 rip on a gen one SB)-how much boost off 8 rib. Piecing together a system now.
I use an 8 rib without issues at 20 psi. More ribs certainly wouldn't hurt anything. There are other ways to get more belt wrap as well like using a larger crank pulley. I run an 8.25" crank pulley and 4" blower pulley if you ran a 7.65" crank pulley and 3.7" blower pulley both with my same F1a-94 and shifting at the same point the blower impeller speeds are nearly identical. The larger pulleys have more surface contact with the belt though so you will have less chance for slippage. This along with fitting the shortest belt you can fit on it with the tensioner completely loosened and then properly tensioning the belt has made my procharger combo on the GTO pretty issue free.
LOL... most of us here are way passed the "boost is a measure of restriction" point but go ahead and treat us like we are all stupid. Yes, we know the difference between volume and pressure. It's also not our fault you decided to run 11.5 to 1 static compression with boost. A stock bottom end or even a forged bottom end wouldn't like mid 11's afr with 19 degrees timing at 11.5 to 1 static compression. That's on you. I ran 14 psi on a stock bottom end ls1 cam only stock heads with headers, no cats, full exhaust at only 12 degrees peak timing on 91 octane obviously much lower compression than 11.5 to 1. That motor has lived a long life and yes I drag raced it.
Current motor is 10.5 to 1 compression at 18 degrees peak timing with a br7 on e85 and a small meth nozzle. The plugs show the timing mark on the bend it could take another degree but why push it that far and it would be closer to it's limits.
So yes 19 degrees at 11.5 to 1 compression on a sbe is asking for trouble. That's on you.
Current motor is 10.5 to 1 compression at 18 degrees peak timing with a br7 on e85 and a small meth nozzle. The plugs show the timing mark on the bend it could take another degree but why push it that far and it would be closer to it's limits.
So yes 19 degrees at 11.5 to 1 compression on a sbe is asking for trouble. That's on you.
I built the car NA, then sold it several years later. New owner originally put nitrous on it for 3-4years, then decided to put a procharger on it had it tuned by someone else. I actually took timing out of it after he got it back...timing mark was on the bend. It was happy no signs of det, it was simply making more power than what the bottom end could handle. He knew it was pushing the limits and was prepared... It's getting an Ohio crank 388 short with Franken boost LS3 heads now.
Either way I brought this up because the OP is already 460whp on motor. A D1x is going to take the bottom end to its limits real quick.
Last edited by kinglt-1; Mar 10, 2025 at 09:57 AM.
How am I treating anybody like they are stupid? You referenced my post with a boost number. My point was it doesn't matter if you ran the same boost, your combo wasn't making the same power. Stock head, compression motor, on 91 with 12 degrees is going to be down 70whp minimum to what this setup was making.
I built the car NA, then sold it several years later. New owner originally put nitrous on it for 3-4years, then decided to put a procharger on it had it tuned by someone else. I actually took timing out of it after he got it back...timing mark was on the bend. It was happy no signs of det, it was simply making more power than what the bottom end could handle. He knew it was pushing the limits and was prepared... It's getting an Ohio crank 388 short with Franken boost LS3 heads now.
Either way I brought this up because the OP is already 460whp on motor. A D1x is going to take the bottom end to its limits real quick.
I built the car NA, then sold it several years later. New owner originally put nitrous on it for 3-4years, then decided to put a procharger on it had it tuned by someone else. I actually took timing out of it after he got it back...timing mark was on the bend. It was happy no signs of det, it was simply making more power than what the bottom end could handle. He knew it was pushing the limits and was prepared... It's getting an Ohio crank 388 short with Franken boost LS3 heads now.
Either way I brought this up because the OP is already 460whp on motor. A D1x is going to take the bottom end to its limits real quick.
Buy the D1x now and pulley it to keep boost at 8 psi then you always have room to grow later.
