What's my boost limit with this combo?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 1,137
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Yep, pump E85, so far averaging around 73-75%. I'm realizing that higher percentages are really taxing my fuel system, I almost want to toss in a gallon of 93 to get it back in the 60's. I'm already seeing 80+% duty cycle at 16 lbs. 
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 196
Likes: 72
From: Grand Rapids, MI
You wont see much benefit over e50-55. You can bring that percentage down a little to help your fuel system a bit.
E50 is already like 18% additional fuel(lots more combustion cooling) over pump 93 and well over 100 octane.
E50 is already like 18% additional fuel(lots more combustion cooling) over pump 93 and well over 100 octane.
Edit: I stand corrected Holley must have changed things inside cause it says they are good with E fuels.
Last edited by 91 Z28; Apr 17, 2025 at 10:12 AM.
Might consider a flex fuel sensor. other wise mixing blends is super hard to get the consistency tune wise. I blended to around E60 on one of my twin non intercooled builds. Ran 19lbs daily for a long time with no issues. Had my 80lb injectors maxed. 70psi base fuel pressure too.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 1,137
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
It has a flex fuel sensor, so that part is taken care of. I probably will go with 210's at a later date, but I wanted to get this dialed in as it sits. Right now, I'm dead in the water anyway, as I twisted all my wheel studs at the track on Saturday and have to ship my axles to Moser to have 5/8 drive studs installed. Not going to risk reinstalling another set of studs only to have them bend. I'll have to drill my wheels and brake rotors out, but no big deal.
Might consider a flex fuel sensor. other wise mixing blends is super hard to get the consistency tune wise. I blended to around E60 on one of my twin non intercooled builds. Ran 19lbs daily for a long time with no issues. Had my 80lb injectors maxed. 70psi base fuel pressure too.
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Verdad Gallardo It has a flex fuel sensor, so that part is taken care of. I probably will go with 210's at a later date, but I wanted to get this dialed in as it sits. Right now, I'm dead in the water anyway, as I twisted all my wheel studs at the track on Saturday and have to ship my axles to Moser to have 5/8 drive studs installed. Not going to risk reinstalling another set of studs only to have them bend. I'll have to drill my wheels and brake rotors out, but no big deal.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 1,137
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Yeah, I made a few. I am pretty sure they twisted due to a combination of factors, all of which were my fault. 1) I didn't retorque the lugs after every pass, the wheel and tire combo is new, with only street miles. So they definitely needed retorquing. 2) I had wheel hop, because I set my rear shocks up incorrectly. I was certain my car would squat on launch, and I was wrong. It separates on launch, and I had my Vikings set to 3 on compression and 6 on rebound in back. So of course they wheelhopped. Best pass, with a weak 1.84 60' time, was 11.44@128.72. My first pass with a 2.07 60' was 11.80@130 and change. I also didn't have my 2 step optimized. Oh, and on my way home, my brakes started squealing... Tore them apart, I had no front pads left and 3 out of 4 caliper pins were seized in their bores. I wondered why my car nosedived so hard between shifts. I might have trapped 132-133 if my brakes weren't dragging the WHOLE time. All of this was with about 16 PSI boost and 14.5* timing.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 1,137
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
I have twin Racetronix 340's, 2nd one comes on at 4PSI and is powered through a Boost-A-Pump. So far so good, my fuel pressure seems to be steady. I did have a scare on my first run, .10 before I lifted, the fuse for the 2nd pump popped. It's a 25 amp fuse, and I just think the Boost-A-Pump was drawing too much current. That, and it was triggering on too early ( was set to 2PSI ) The wiring can handle a bit more, so I'm going to swap to a 30 amp fuse and maybe adjust the threshold upward a bit more for when it turns on.
I have twin Racetronix 340's, 2nd one comes on at 4PSI and is powered through a Boost-A-Pump. So far so good, my fuel pressure seems to be steady. I did have a scare on my first run, .10 before I lifted, the fuse for the 2nd pump popped. It's a 25 amp fuse, and I just think the Boost-A-Pump was drawing too much current. That, and it was triggering on too early ( was set to 2PSI ) The wiring can handle a bit more, so I'm going to swap to a 30 amp fuse and maybe adjust the threshold upward a bit more for when it turns on.
Edit: Watch yourself with those Racetronix 340 pumps. I've wasted too much money on those crappy pumps. The last ones I managed to get about 7k miles. But those were the 3rd set. I've had dead pumps out the box, one last a few runs etc etc
Last edited by 91 Z28; Apr 17, 2025 at 05:38 PM.
Yeah I meant intake temps. I really don’t want to run a intercooler with my set up but I think I’m going to have to. I don’t want to deal with an air to water either.
Yeah, I made a few. I am pretty sure they twisted due to a combination of factors, all of which were my fault. 1) I didn't retorque the lugs after every pass, the wheel and tire combo is new, with only street miles. So they definitely needed retorquing. 2) I had wheel hop, because I set my rear shocks up incorrectly. I was certain my car would squat on launch, and I was wrong. It separates on launch, and I had my Vikings set to 3 on compression and 6 on rebound in back. So of course they wheelhopped. Best pass, with a weak 1.84 60' time, was 11.44@128.72. My first pass with a 2.07 60' was 11.80@130 and change. I also didn't have my 2 step optimized. Oh, and on my way home, my brakes started squealing... Tore them apart, I had no front pads left and 3 out of 4 caliper pins were seized in their bores. I wondered why my car nosedived so hard between shifts. I might have trapped 132-133 if my brakes weren't dragging the WHOLE time. All of this was with about 16 PSI boost and 14.5* timing.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 1,137
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 1,137
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
I will say, this car is really showing it's potential - I ran 11.31@131.50 w/ 1.82 60' time, and a 11.23@131.73 w/ 1.80 60' time yesterday. Stiffened my rear shocks up significantly from last week and while I still had some tire spin, I didn't have wheel hop like I had last week. Most of my crappy 60' is on me not being able to slip the clutch out of the hole properly. This thing will run 10's as it sits with a good launch.
I decided against doing the 5/8" studs, as I'd already purchased a set of ARP studs. I bought some ET style lug nuts that have a shank that centers the wheel, my Moser axles do not have a hubcentric ring. I will say this: ALWAYS retorque your lugs after every pass if the wheel/stud/lug combo is new. I am now convinced that it's why my studs bent. I torqued my lugs no less than 7 times yesterday. Twice before I went to the track, once when I got to the track, and after each pass. Every time after I got to the track, the lugs had loosened slightly. My original studs and lugs were likely not torqued to spec, and the added wheel hop killed them.
I will say, this car is really showing it's potential - I ran 11.31@131.50 w/ 1.82 60' time, and a 11.23@131.73 w/ 1.80 60' time yesterday. Stiffened my rear shocks up significantly from last week and while I still had some tire spin, I didn't have wheel hop like I had last week. Most of my crappy 60' is on me not being able to slip the clutch out of the hole properly. This thing will run 10's as it sits with a good launch.
I will say, this car is really showing it's potential - I ran 11.31@131.50 w/ 1.82 60' time, and a 11.23@131.73 w/ 1.80 60' time yesterday. Stiffened my rear shocks up significantly from last week and while I still had some tire spin, I didn't have wheel hop like I had last week. Most of my crappy 60' is on me not being able to slip the clutch out of the hole properly. This thing will run 10's as it sits with a good launch.
I was gonna say 5/8" studs are way overkill, 1/2" ARP's would be fine and you shouldn't have to drill anything out.
Thank God you caught it and didn't break them on the launch.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 1,137
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
The coolest part about running so quick is they didn't say a word to me about going quicker than I should with no roll bar. Not sure how quick I'll have to be to get a talking to, but I was almost .3 quicker than the cut off and they just handed me my slip without a word
Hope I can click off a 10 second run before I get kicked out, lol. I do have dark tint, so you can't tell if I have a cage or not, which might be why I've skirted by.