5.3 turbo
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Pa
5.3 turbo I’m looking into going with a junkyard lm7 I have looked around a a few people at the track says I should have no problem up to 800hp on stock internals what’s everyone’s experience with running a turbo 5.3 and how reliable would it be at 650-700 wheel with a good tune
Depends on the year of the LM7 and the load you put on them. You want 2005+ some late year 2004's had the GEN4 rods, but its a crap shoot as to which ones. If its earlier than that, they have baby GEN3 rods and most don't get away with much more than 600hp. They can bend at much less if ya load them hard at low RPM or detonate.
If you really know what you are doing tune wise and have a light weight setup with decent gearing you can likely get away with 800ish. I did it for a few passes before mine let go. Couple people pushed gen3 4.8’s that far too. But they don’t lean on them till well over 5k rpm.
If you really know what you are doing tune wise and have a light weight setup with decent gearing you can likely get away with 800ish. I did it for a few passes before mine let go. Couple people pushed gen3 4.8’s that far too. But they don’t lean on them till well over 5k rpm.
A Gen IV LM7 would handle that power level with ease.
I ran my Gen III SBE LS1 at 700whp for years with a Pat G. tune.
I'd also look for an L33 or LC9 with the Gen IV internals, then you get the durability and light weight of an aluminum block, why add 100 lbs. to the nose if you don't have to.
Gap the rings, add a Melling HV oil pump and let it eat.
Just make sure to check the cam bearings, they can come loose in the block and block the oil passage which is bad.
If you don't plan on making four-digit power, you could always just do rods/pistons in your LS1.
I'm running a rod/piston LS1 right now and plan on taking to 900-1000whp.
I ran my Gen III SBE LS1 at 700whp for years with a Pat G. tune.
I'd also look for an L33 or LC9 with the Gen IV internals, then you get the durability and light weight of an aluminum block, why add 100 lbs. to the nose if you don't have to.
Gap the rings, add a Melling HV oil pump and let it eat.
Just make sure to check the cam bearings, they can come loose in the block and block the oil passage which is bad.
If you don't plan on making four-digit power, you could always just do rods/pistons in your LS1.
I'm running a rod/piston LS1 right now and plan on taking to 900-1000whp.
Depends on the year of the LM7 and the load you put on them. You want 2005+ some late year 2004's had the GEN4 rods, but its a crap shoot as to which ones. If its earlier than that, they have baby GEN3 rods and most don't get away with much more than 600hp. They can bend at much less if ya load them hard at low RPM or detonate.
If you really know what you are doing tune wise and have a light weight setup with decent gearing you can likely get away with 800ish. I did it for a few passes before mine let go. Couple people pushed gen3 4.8’s that far too. But they don’t lean on them till well over 5k rpm.
If you really know what you are doing tune wise and have a light weight setup with decent gearing you can likely get away with 800ish. I did it for a few passes before mine let go. Couple people pushed gen3 4.8’s that far too. But they don’t lean on them till well over 5k rpm.
Pop the pan off and check.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Pa
A Gen IV LM7 would handle that power level with ease.
I ran my Gen III SBE LS1 at 700whp for years with a Pat G. tune.
I'd also look for an L33 or LC9 with the Gen IV internals, then you get the durability and light weight of an aluminum block, why add 100 lbs. to the nose if you don't have to.
Gap the rings, add a Melling HV oil pump and let it eat.
Just make sure to check the cam bearings, they can come loose in the block and block the oil passage which is bad.
If you don't plan on making four-digit power, you could always just do rods/pistons in your LS1.
I'm running a rod/piston LS1 right now and plan on taking to 900-1000whp.
I ran my Gen III SBE LS1 at 700whp for years with a Pat G. tune.
I'd also look for an L33 or LC9 with the Gen IV internals, then you get the durability and light weight of an aluminum block, why add 100 lbs. to the nose if you don't have to.
Gap the rings, add a Melling HV oil pump and let it eat.
Just make sure to check the cam bearings, they can come loose in the block and block the oil passage which is bad.
If you don't plan on making four-digit power, you could always just do rods/pistons in your LS1.
I'm running a rod/piston LS1 right now and plan on taking to 900-1000whp.
As far as the block itself, I’ve been running an ls3 block for nearly 6 years and it’s said to have the weakest sleeves. I’ve been drag racing it every weekend since the track opened this year as well with a best of 6.1x at over 115 mph with a race weight just over 4000 lbs in a truly daily capable car. It’s got to be over 900 rwhp and I just changed the pulley to add a couple more psi as well as some other changes to try to dip into the 5’s. I expect something to fail but so far it just keeps taking it.
This is with over 20 psi on 50 percent E and a size 9 meth nozzle full on at 6 psi with 19 degrees peak timing and much lower timing down low.
This is with over 20 psi on 50 percent E and a size 9 meth nozzle full on at 6 psi with 19 degrees peak timing and much lower timing down low.
Just rods and pistons, don't bore it, just clean it up which if you find an engine that was running it should be no problem.
The Gen IV rods and pistons are very capable and would be just fine for 700whp really.
If it were me, I'd look for an L33 or LC9 w/ 100K miles or more, give it a backyard rebuild.
If you can find an LS3 like @BCNUL8R then definitely go that route, or even an aluminum 6.0L but both those are probably gonna be $$$.
Throw in some fresh bearings and rings since you'll have it apart anyways, check the cam bearings, install a HV oil pump because you can really spin up those 5.3's.
Reuse your heads, head studs, cam, BTR .660 drop in springs and you'll be set.
At least with this foundation you can turn it up when 700whp gets boring because it eventually will and you won't be out a ton of cash.
Have you settled on a turbo?
A 7875 would be easy to package and make the power, a T6 S4xx Borg unit would be ideal but is much more challenging to package in a 4th Gen F-Body.
The Gen IV rods and pistons are very capable and would be just fine for 700whp really.
If it were me, I'd look for an L33 or LC9 w/ 100K miles or more, give it a backyard rebuild.
If you can find an LS3 like @BCNUL8R then definitely go that route, or even an aluminum 6.0L but both those are probably gonna be $$$.
Throw in some fresh bearings and rings since you'll have it apart anyways, check the cam bearings, install a HV oil pump because you can really spin up those 5.3's.
Reuse your heads, head studs, cam, BTR .660 drop in springs and you'll be set.
At least with this foundation you can turn it up when 700whp gets boring because it eventually will and you won't be out a ton of cash.
Have you settled on a turbo?
A 7875 would be easy to package and make the power, a T6 S4xx Borg unit would be ideal but is much more challenging to package in a 4th Gen F-Body.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 91
Likes: 15
my buddy has a built 5.3 for when he's stock 5.3 craps out. last set up was a 83 or 85mm turbo and was built for no prep. this season he stepped up to a fis 98mm and upgraded all around the bay except the old 5.3 that keeps ticking. he said his last set up was likely around 1k whp. he doesn't dyno his car but he's been mid 5s in his fox body in Colorado elevation.
and for what its worth I have a piston rod ls1 that's properly built and it makes 8-850 with ease going on 3 years now and TONS of passes and nearly daily it in the summer.
as stated above try and get a gen 4 and make sure you got a good guy running the laptop. anything can happen of course but tons of people have had great success.
and for what its worth I have a piston rod ls1 that's properly built and it makes 8-850 with ease going on 3 years now and TONS of passes and nearly daily it in the summer.
as stated above try and get a gen 4 and make sure you got a good guy running the laptop. anything can happen of course but tons of people have had great success.
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Verdad Gallardo my buddy has a built 5.3 for when he's stock 5.3 craps out. last set up was a 83 or 85mm turbo and was built for no prep. this season he stepped up to a fis 98mm and upgraded all around the bay except the old 5.3 that keeps ticking. he said his last set up was likely around 1k whp. he doesn't dyno his car but he's been mid 5s in his fox body in Colorado elevation.
and for what its worth I have a piston rod ls1 that's properly built and it makes 8-850 with ease going on 3 years now and TONS of passes and nearly daily it in the summer.
as stated above try and get a gen 4 and make sure you got a good guy running the laptop. anything can happen of course but tons of people have had great success.
and for what its worth I have a piston rod ls1 that's properly built and it makes 8-850 with ease going on 3 years now and TONS of passes and nearly daily it in the summer.
as stated above try and get a gen 4 and make sure you got a good guy running the laptop. anything can happen of course but tons of people have had great success.
Doesn't matter how tough the bottom end is if the tune is crap.
Pat G. has tuned all my stuff and I beat on it like it owes me money.
Told Pat "I don't care what it makes, just make it live" and he's done that and made some decent power.
I don't know what my rod/piston LS1 makes now but its taking 14 lbs. from a billet S484 like a champ, gotta be in the 800-900hp range I would think.
Absolutely, the tune is critical as well, forgot to mention that.
Doesn't matter how tough the bottom end is if the tune is crap.
Pat G. has tuned all my stuff and I beat on it like it owes me money.
Told Pat "I don't care what it makes, just make it live" and he's done that and made some decent power.
I don't know what my rod/piston LS1 makes now but its taking 14 lbs. from a billet S484 like a champ, gotta be in the 800-900hp range I would think.
Doesn't matter how tough the bottom end is if the tune is crap.
Pat G. has tuned all my stuff and I beat on it like it owes me money.
Told Pat "I don't care what it makes, just make it live" and he's done that and made some decent power.
I don't know what my rod/piston LS1 makes now but its taking 14 lbs. from a billet S484 like a champ, gotta be in the 800-900hp range I would think.
With a 377 at 10.6 to 1 on E and meth with 21-22 psi at 19 degrees of timing the horsepower calculators say im around 940.
I figured I’d be over 1000 easy but trap speed don’t lie like dynos can.
You might only be 750 rwhp if auto with a 347 on pump/meth at 14 psi.
Maybe…
With a 377 at 10.6 to 1 on E and meth with 21-22 psi at 19 degrees of timing the horsepower calculators say im around 940.
I figured I’d be over 1000 easy but trap speed don’t lie like dynos can.
You might only be 750 rwhp if auto with a 347 on pump/meth at 14 psi.
With a 377 at 10.6 to 1 on E and meth with 21-22 psi at 19 degrees of timing the horsepower calculators say im around 940.
I figured I’d be over 1000 easy but trap speed don’t lie like dynos can.
You might only be 750 rwhp if auto with a 347 on pump/meth at 14 psi.
Hoping to hit the track this year for some actual numbers, still haven't heard back from the dyno tuner which bums me out.
Would love to have actual hard numbers to share.
Anyway, OP may want to consider doing a rod/piston combo using his current LS1.
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 91
Likes: 15
id bet alittle more then that. but hard to say my car with a 347 on e85 with 15psi from a VSR 76/89 made 762 through a 80e and a dana 60. on a mustang 1100. idk how close it is cars roughly 3600 ish lbs without me in it if I had to guess and I trap in the upper 140s with a 7k da. best et 9.96 at 141 with a 1.91 60ft best mph was a 10.015 at 148 with a 2.02 60ft
id bet alittle more then that. but hard to say my car with a 347 on e85 with 15psi from a VSR 76/89 made 762 through a 80e and a dana 60. on a mustang 1100. idk how close it is cars roughly 3600 ish lbs without me in it if I had to guess and I trap in the upper 140s with a 7k da. best et 9.96 at 141 with a 1.91 60ft best mph was a 10.015 at 148 with a 2.02 60ft
Im trapping just over 115 at over 4000 lbs. I want to get in the 8’s in the 1/4 driving to and from the track. I’ve been 6.1 and figure I need to go 5.8 at 118 to hit 8’s in the 1/4 as a guesstimate. Don’t want to make the long drive to the 1/4 track until I run an 1/8th time that gives me a real shot at it. The 1/8th mile is 10 minutes from home.
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 444
Likes: 158
I bent some rods in a gen 3 with maybe around 15psi... I got an lc9 I've been beating on with even more boost now and it just keeps goin... I have a rods pistons lc9 built on the shelf to replace it but havent had any issues out of it yet...
id bet alittle more then that. but hard to say my car with a 347 on e85 with 15psi from a VSR 76/89 made 762 through a 80e and a dana 60. on a mustang 1100. idk how close it is cars roughly 3600 ish lbs without me in it if I had to guess and I trap in the upper 140s with a 7k da. best et 9.96 at 141 with a 1.91 60ft best mph was a 10.015 at 148 with a 2.02 60ft
I’m the odd ball… I don’t have a back up built because I can’t make up my mind what I direction I want to go.
I’ve got funds set aside but can’t decide between using a sleeved lc9 or lsx block or a 388 or 427.
I just went 6.1 at 115 and added 2 more psi since then.
I found out the coyote guys are spinning Prochargers 15-20,000 rpm over max recommended impeller speed so I figure spinning it 10g over can’t hurt lol. It’s not that they become inefficient it’s the reliability of the gear set at those Rpm’s but it’s only for a second that it’s over the recommended range lol.
I’ve got funds set aside but can’t decide between using a sleeved lc9 or lsx block or a 388 or 427.
I just went 6.1 at 115 and added 2 more psi since then.
I found out the coyote guys are spinning Prochargers 15-20,000 rpm over max recommended impeller speed so I figure spinning it 10g over can’t hurt lol. It’s not that they become inefficient it’s the reliability of the gear set at those Rpm’s but it’s only for a second that it’s over the recommended range lol.
I’m the odd ball… I don’t have a back up built because I can’t make up my mind what I direction I want to go.
I’ve got funds set aside but can’t decide between using a sleeved lc9 or lsx block or a 388 or 427.
I just went 6.1 at 115 and added 2 more psi since then.
I found out the coyote guys are spinning Prochargers 15-20,000 rpm over max recommended impeller speed so I figure spinning it 10g over can’t hurt lol. It’s not that they become inefficient it’s the reliability of the gear set at those Rpm’s but it’s only for a second that it’s over the recommended range lol.
I’ve got funds set aside but can’t decide between using a sleeved lc9 or lsx block or a 388 or 427.
I just went 6.1 at 115 and added 2 more psi since then.
I found out the coyote guys are spinning Prochargers 15-20,000 rpm over max recommended impeller speed so I figure spinning it 10g over can’t hurt lol. It’s not that they become inefficient it’s the reliability of the gear set at those Rpm’s but it’s only for a second that it’s over the recommended range lol.