Harlan, how would heat affect a possibly warped or prior heat damaged WG?

For instance, Daniel can get the WG to work fine off of the car in ambient temps. However, if something in the WG were no longer true and exposed to the heat of the exhaust could it possibly function improperly then?

 

It's possible. Valve stem could be bent, and binding in the guide.

The hat might be leaking at temp, etc.

Have you guys actually taken the valve completely out of it and checked it for straightness?

 

That is what I was wondering, what in the WG could be expanding with heat and causing this to get stuck when exposed to the tremendous exhaust temps.

I still feel the WG is in need of being replaced or rebuilt at the least.

 

What's the easiest way for him to check for valve straightness?

 

the valve itself maybe.

 

I'd probably take the valve and the WG over to Newman's Machine shop in Portsmouth, Daniel. Have them make sure the valve and the guide it moves (I assume it has a valve guide to travel in, maybe not, I have never seen a cutaway view of a WG) in is not warped and is within spec to make sure the valve is straight and the guide it moves in is fine.

 

wg going back on as we speak so we will see

 

I would NOT put it back on yet. You've really changed nothing on the WG itself. If something like a valve is tweaked, etc that expands when it gets hot, it could be the reason for the WG not opening under operating conditions.

I'd have a machine shop check out the WG first. That's just me, though.

The fact that it seems to work at ambient temps in water doesn't do it for me b/c it doesn't reproduce the condition in which it operates. The exhaust temps experienced are insane compared to ambient temps.

 

same fn problem. wg has got to be bad and hks said i am making too much power for a standard WG and that i need to step up to a racing waste which involves takeing everything off and having it fabbed and the put the whole kit back on. f that. not going to get into that right now. so if some one is interested in the car let me know

 

It's gotta be the WG. AFAIK, no other portion of the turbo system would cause this. The WG is not letting "X" amount of boost pressure open the valve and bleed off the pressure.

Just get a new replacement one of the same kind and slap it on. If it doesn't work, send it back I really think that would fix it. Rob uses the same WG on his big HP setups, AFAIK.

Also, from what I remember, Harlan said the HP ratings of WGs really don't have too much say yes or no in regards to functioning with "x" amount of power.

 

i had to buy another w/g for that kit to find out that the w/g was not the problem before i sold it. hope it doesn't happen to you too.

 

Were you getting overboost, though?

What symptoms were you having that made you purchase a new WG?

 

I know what HKS says about the WG size, but trust me, it's not too small. I can list you 50 Turbo Buick guys running the same exact gate on 700rwhp cars. I had the same one on my 9second Buick, my 9 second Z and the 792rwhp Formula. I too think that something is probably wrong with either the WG itself, or the seat in which the valve of the WG seals. I know Warbird said that ARE did some welding on the kit/piping...maybe there is some slag around the seat?
Also, since you said the problem didn't happen until AFTER you replaced the vacuum lines, I would look there more closely. Bottom line is, it worked fine at the dyno and on the street here. If the WG was too small, it would NEVER have worked. In other words, something went bad in the interim time.

MM didn't have a problem with too much boost, he had boost drop (if I remember correctly).

 

I think a new WG from HKS or Rob will fix it.

I sent KAOS a link to get better vacuum tubing from http://www.hightempsilicone.com so that when he gets his new WG he can use this high quality tubing, too.

 

Never welded anywhere close to the wastegate. All welding was done disassembled on the manifold with the WG removed. Can't blame me for that one

 

Dude, you are need of some serious help. Nobody blamed you for anything.

However, it's apparent from your answer that either you can't read well, or you only read what you want. You say that the "welding was done on the manifold with the wastegate removed". And that's EXACTLY why I said what I did. You see, the WG "seat" is ON THE MANIFOLD. Duh. (not that I expected you to know what I was talking about anyway)

 

so what should i do. just buy another waste gate? and the vac tubing wsnt changed until after i noticed the problem, i think. plus the tubing was changed several times. going to order a new WG on monday and a check valve. pray to god that it works. if not im not sure what to do next. i want a 12bolt and hals but i would love to get it working first. and it is NOT making the power and tq it was down at robs it wont even turn the nittos over on a damp road from a slow roll. i'll call you on monday rob to ask you some more questions. and WARBIRD did you get my pm's

 

plus what could have went wrong overnight from your shop to the next day. i cant figure it out

 

So what was wrong with your kit that I now have?

 

plus there are some rough welds up in there but it should have effected it on that day at the dyno correct? ALSO this happened over NIGHT, how can a WG go bad from spinning tires at 70 then pulling it on a trailor then getting it home then the WG go bad?