cant argue with that

 

One of the problems with expansion comes from the fact that the first pipe is only seeing one cylinder's heat, then the second one is seeing two cylinder's heat, and third ---- and so on. So by the time you get to the end you have 4 times the heat on the same wall thickness pipe as you had for just one cylinder. So most start with a wall thickness that is right for normal headers, but not designed for a log. Along with with Harlan said of course.

 

Some of us are still crossing our fingers on that one.

But after 4 years and 38,000 miles, I can't exactly complain.

 

Has anyone succesfully modified the CAS manifolds and had them live for an extended period of time without cracking?

If so what did you do? Pics helpful.

 

ALu. Charge pipes would be a big NONO IMO. Stainless 304 would be far better, stainless is 300% less likely to soak up heat after it has traveled throught eh intercooler, the last thing youd want is to Cool your charge air just to haev it warm up again as it comes out of the IC. just my .02$ and as a newbie im not tryin to flame, just suggest better options for making more power.

 

NEW QUESTION... How many people, other than Noyzee actually had the CAS kit crack??? Maybe A-Dee-O also...just curious??? I know I didnt have huge miles on mine, but they looked great upon removeal...

MY opinion...copy an Incon kit, not a CAS kit....far easier...and you can use stock manifolds...good for 500+ too Im sure. You would be limited to smaller turbos however, unless you cut the floor.

 

As an ultimate precaution, have your fab buddy put in a bellows or two on the log, along with the mods I mentioned before.

You actually gonna install another one of these kits? Im sure Mikes happy to hear it.

 

I dont want to copy the inconn kit because it used tubros that cost like 1200 each because there so rare, and then theres the scavenge oil return setup that uses a pump. to much to go wrong with that one.



Im just going to make the manifolds out of mild steel and have them jet hot coated inside and out and be done with it. the mustang punks have donethis for 10 plus years with no trouble. Ceramic coatings last just about forever. And no it wont flake off inside the headers and eat up the turbos wheels. There are some shops that have internal engine parts coated like pistons and they dont flake off.

If i sell enough kits i might get tired of making tube manifolds.....so ill just fire up the cnc mill and make a sand casting mold. I could just get the manifolds cast, and then throw them on the mill.....face mill and drill all the holes.

Now its time to get back out in the shop and get this sucker done and on the market.

 

I'm fairly certain that when Jammer said copy the Incon kit... he meant in terms of turbo layout and not the actual turbos themselves. Place the turbos in the same location as the incon's but use a T3 or T4 flange... You would need the scavenge pump if you go as low as the incon is... but if you use a proper pump, it really isn't as big of an issue as some people make it out to be.

--Just wanted to clarify, this was how I interpreted what Jammer had said... Personally I would probably still try to keep the turbos high enough to gravity drain... but Jammer has actually installed a CAS kit... which I have not.

 

You bet!

Mike is all over it!!

 

Go Mike Go Mike!

 

Jammer,


When you put the CAS kit on your car how did the turbos go on? Did you bolt the turbo to the manifold and downpipe OFF the car and just slide the whole thing in as a unit? Or did you have to bolt it all together on the car. Looks like it might be hard to get at some of the bolts if it was on the car?


Im just kinda curious.......of whats to come on my project

 

Depends...if your dropping the motor in you may be able to have one manifold and turbo on one side...but basically, you need to bolt the turbos on after the manifolds are on...this is no easy task....and to add to the fun, you can really only get 3 of the 4 flange bolts through and have sanity left...then get a grip and go for the last bolt..or do as Noyz did, aand just run 3 bolts between the turbo and flange. The down pipes are not "easy" but takes some very short wrenches...home made tools help the install.

PS, put the plugs in after the manilfolds, but before the turbos.

APE put the kit in and the motor in origionally, they may chime in on their initial process..I just took off and put back while motor stayed.

XP is correct, Incon turbo location is what I was aiming at...scavenge pumps work...at least for STS and a handful of Incon folks. It would be a small turbo though...my t3/to4e's were too big...that was a strong consideration before I placed them in the back.

 

Uh, not positive but I don't think you want to coat the inside of the manifolds? Mine have made two round trips to Jet Hot because they originaly coated the insides. They are now being stripped and re-done.

 

Stein, you only responded to a thread I started Dec 12 with pics of 2 cracked headers.

 

Hence the "Maybe A-Dee-O also". I try, but cant commit to memory everything I read...but a bell was ringing.

 

i have know a lot of peole who have gotton the insides coated (myself included) and have had no proplems. as long as you use the high temp coating, if it flakes of do to heat you got bigger proples, like a piston has already melted.

 

There are decent arguements for both.. the standard arguement against coating the inside is that it will flake off and damage the turbo. Very plausible arguement... but I've never actually heard a specific case where that has happened... few cases where it was suspected... but never any hard evidence that is what happened... and if the headers are mild steel and not coated on the inside, they will rust and flake into the turbo so it really is 6 of one half dozen of the other. That being said, HP motorsports uses mild steel in their turbo kits... coated inside and out. They claim they have never had one damage a turbo from the coating flaking... not sure how true it is.. just what they claim. Personally.. if it was me... I'd want stainless manifolds coated on the outside only by swain tech. Their coating doesn't look nearly as trick as jet hot... but it sure does work :-)