Any interest in a CAS style Twin kit?
Im in the stages of making a CAS style kit for my car. Once i get the 1st one built im going to tool up and made them to sell. The price will be under what CAS charged (6000). I have a machine shop at home and everythings paid for. Witch means my company wont turn out like Incon and CAS....screwing everyone over.
Specs..
Twin garret T3/T4 hybrid turbos
Manifolds made from mild steel and Jet Hot coated (will cure the cracking manifold problem CAS had)
Downpipes made from 321 stainless
All flanges will be 1/2" thick and precision machined, and blanchard ground in house to prevent leaks.
Twin Tial 38mm bypass valves
Tial 50mm blow off valve
all charge pipes will be aluminum
custom intercooler
Is anyone interested in a kit like this?.. once i get them built and ready to sell i will sponsor the website.
I will offer custom anodizing (inhouse) so you can get your blow off valve, bypass valves, and charge pipes looking "show"
Specs..
Twin garret T3/T4 hybrid turbos
Manifolds made from mild steel and Jet Hot coated (will cure the cracking manifold problem CAS had)
Downpipes made from 321 stainless
All flanges will be 1/2" thick and precision machined, and blanchard ground in house to prevent leaks.
Twin Tial 38mm bypass valves
Tial 50mm blow off valve
all charge pipes will be aluminum
custom intercooler
Is anyone interested in a kit like this?.. once i get them built and ready to sell i will sponsor the website.
I will offer custom anodizing (inhouse) so you can get your blow off valve, bypass valves, and charge pipes looking "show"
Your gonna spend the money on 321 for the downpipe where it's not needed, and use mild to bandaid a poor header design? 
You're better off making the header out of 321 where the high heat stability is needed, and redesigning the layout to let the header grow instead of crack.
304 is plenty for the downpipe.

You're better off making the header out of 321 where the high heat stability is needed, and redesigning the layout to let the header grow instead of crack.
304 is plenty for the downpipe.
charge pipes yes (those are the pipes from the throttle body to the turbo) downtube no, ALSO camarogod98 you should look into becoming a sponser or im sure the thread will get locked.
later
Gary
later
Gary
Originally Posted by y2khawk
Your gonna spend the money on 321 for the downpipe where it's not needed, and use mild to bandaid a poor header design? 

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I am not interested becuase is just received my brand new CAS TT kit today.
Yay fer me!!! I do, although, see some major planning and a lot of work ahead of me before i go and deem this kit worthy. I wish i knew how to weld 
I will be posting up some initial thoughts later.
Yay fer me!!! I do, although, see some major planning and a lot of work ahead of me before i go and deem this kit worthy. I wish i knew how to weld 
I will be posting up some initial thoughts later.
Originally Posted by Birdie2000
What is it about logs that makes cracking inevitable?
Greg
With the cas kit, start by cutting the flange, between the 3rd and 4th hole. Drill out flange holes 1,2,5,6 to allow for some expansion of the flange . Holes 2 and 5 should be a little larger than 3 and 4 and 1 and 6 a little larger than 2 and 5. Dont wrap the logs in heat tape. Thats my 2 cents.
Originally Posted by Jammer
With the cas kit, start by cutting the flange, between the 3rd and 4th hole. Drill out flange holes 1,2,5,6 to allow for some expansion of the flange . Holes 2 and 5 should be a little larger than 3 and 4 and 1 and 6 a little larger than 2 and 5. Dont wrap the logs in heat tape. Thats my 2 cents.
Greg
Originally Posted by Birdie2000
What is it about logs that makes cracking inevitable?
Originally Posted by y2khawk
redesigning the layout to let the header grow instead of crack.
Originally Posted by disassembled
How much woud you enlargen the holese?
Not really sure how much by... but IMHO the best way to do it would be to use a die grinder to elongate the hole and not just hog it out with a drill bit. You just want to give the flange space so that when it heats up it doesn't lock against the side of the bolt...
the both of you refuse to accept log manifolds can work well with self destructing!
Originally Posted by XJGPN
I really think Harlan already nailed it with this:
Basically, think of it this way... As metal is heated it expands. If you have a log, as it is heated, the log expands... and it expands more then the head and flange... so just picture the flange side staying the same as the log expands.... what you get is cracking at the primaries... A header style manifold just grows... Even if it expands or contracts a little unevenly, all the tubes are relatively small and there isn't one large tube overpowering all of the other ones... so it is less likely to crack.
Basically, think of it this way... As metal is heated it expands. If you have a log, as it is heated, the log expands... and it expands more then the head and flange... so just picture the flange side staying the same as the log expands.... what you get is cracking at the primaries... A header style manifold just grows... Even if it expands or contracts a little unevenly, all the tubes are relatively small and there isn't one large tube overpowering all of the other ones... so it is less likely to crack.
agreed, better yet. Id say 1/64th
Originally Posted by XJGPN
Not really sure how much by... but IMHO the best way to do it would be to use a die grinder to elongate the hole and not just hog it out with a drill bit. You just want to give the flange space so that when it heats up it doesn't lock against the side of the bolt...
Originally Posted by Jammer
the both of you refuse to accept log manifolds can work well with self destructing!
I never said a log can't work. I've built log manifolds before, but not outta thin wall tube. Schedule 10 304 pipe 
It's the small triangles created by a log and the primaries that causes the problems. no where for things to move when they expand, so they crack.
Using mild to solve the problem is the wrong answer. Sure it might live on the street, but you'll eventually precipitate the carbon outta the steel from the heat. Then it becomes brittle and falls apart. Not to mention the scale and flaking, we all know that's no good for turbine wheels.
If you're starting from scratch so to speak, make the headers live by giving them room to grow and expand.

It's the small triangles created by a log and the primaries that causes the problems. no where for things to move when they expand, so they crack.
Using mild to solve the problem is the wrong answer. Sure it might live on the street, but you'll eventually precipitate the carbon outta the steel from the heat. Then it becomes brittle and falls apart. Not to mention the scale and flaking, we all know that's no good for turbine wheels.
If you're starting from scratch so to speak, make the headers live by giving them room to grow and expand.
Originally Posted by XJGPN
A cast log manifold could survive ;-)

They worked real well. Ain't seen a cracked one yet.
Then again, the foundry cost probably contributed to their demise.

