ur opinions welcomed.. im thinking ill prolly reuse the stock crank or run a cheap kit... 347, or 348 whatever it comes out to be with eagle or lunati rods nad diamond pistons and arp rod bolts.. gotta run a low compression i guess.. then i could add a cam and a turbo kit right?


would this really be any better then just adding a cam to my 150 shot now lol.. seems like a lot of work for min. gains.

 

Your buying insuance when you add forged components to your short block, so don't expect to see gains.

It all depends on what your power goals are, what do you want to do with your car?

 

From my best guesstimations I came up with the following:
Machine work $300
Rods, Pistons, pins, rings, and bearings $1150 (eagle, Mahle, and FM)
Cam, pushrods, gaskets and bolts req'd $600
Heads $1000-$2400 (PP to AFR and everything in between setup)
Turbo Kit w/ IC $5300-$10,000 (Phamspeed to Custom Jobber)
Fuel System $1400 (like a speed inc or Nasty setup, tank, lines, pump('s), filter FRP etc.
Not to mention depending on power level, Trans swap, driveshaft, rearend for about another $7000.
So for about $9750, say 10k, you can get into the turbo curve without drivetrain upgrades, going the lower end. On the higher side, I am guessing bout $16,000 for the engine and turbo setup, another 7k for the drivetrain add in tuning and you might as well call it $25,000 cuz I am sure I overlooked a few things, besides going custom your going to want better internals! Thast my guess though, as I have been piecing everything together on paper the last year I have been deployed, wanting a turbo as well.

Charlie

 

thanks... i would be driving this car occasionally on the street.. a lot of track racing and street racing... so i would need a fair amount of power out of it..

where did u find all this? link please. Rods, Pistons, pins, rings, and bearings $1150 (eagle, Mahle, and FM)

 

I have about 14k into my setup with the bottom end and its not done yet, so 16-20k for a "race" setup is about right, and thats just in parts, im doing 99% of the labor myself.

 

Oh yeah, Labor was a given to be done by self, good catch term.

Links, all the sites to the left, sponsors, ------------>, as well, as for sale section, group purchase section and google is my search engine of choice.

Good luck
Charlie

 

well i would do the labor myself.....

however after reading jut how expensive it gets..... no offense, i wish i could, but imma have to stick with the n2o for now..

 

No offense, like I mentioned, I have been trying to convince myself to go FI for a while. Its not as much the cost, although that doesnt help. Its a matter of long term I know I will be happier FI, so until I get the components I want in a kit, I will spray away.

 

What you get from a forged bottom end is peace of mind and a platform to build on. In my opinion, if you are going to do this, get a 4" stroke and 6.125" rods. It doesn't cost that much more and you will gain significant torque and a much better platform to build on. Everything from the 382 to 427s are based on this stroke. If you shop around, you can get a really strong setup at a reasonable price. The Lunati setup I have sells for $3400 to $3900 depending on where you buy it. I bought the 6.125 pro billet rods for $600, the 8cc dish pistons for $350, and then the crank for $1850, $2800 total. You might do better, especially if you go with the pro mod rods rather than the billet, depends on what your plans are. My machinist told me my bottom end is good to 1250-1300 hp and 8500 rpm if I want to rev that high....I don't, I have gone overkill on everything because I want it to be reliable and live a long time. I only want to do this once. Also, if you buy the rods and pistons first, get the crank from a business that deals direct with Lunati, give them the weights of the pistons and rods, and Lunati will internally balance the crank for free. The drawback to a stroker is that now you have the genie in the bottle. To let him out, you need a bigger cam, better flowing heads with appropriate valve train, and free flowing exhaust. Once you let him out, you have to control him, especially if you decide to go FI. This results in a psychotic genie on crack. You must now get a beefier drive train or he will destroy your car. Once you have him controlled, you have to train him by adding and tuning suspension components and sticky tires. Now you have him where you want him and he must grant you the 3 wishes....I want low e.t.s, I want low 60 ft. times, I want high trap speeds....poof....you run low 11s with a 1.6 60 ft. at 125 mph....and now you are hooked. It has all been an evil illusion....the genie is the one in control....you are the one who is on crack. Now the genie wants better heads, a bigger cam, more boost, stickier tires....you comply and run high 10s, a 1.45 60ft, and 130 mph and life is good again....but the genie wants more....bigger bores, pistons, cam, more boost....

Sorry, I think I need to lay off the caffiene.

Yeah, man, a forged bottom end with a 4" stroke is the way to go, you will love it.

Good luck,
Tom

 

Plain and simple....... it just never ends...... and its alot of $$$$$$ even if you do it your self..........