What Boost Controller should I use???
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From: Forced Induction Heaven
What Boost Controller should I use??? I want to use a very simple boost controller. I don't need some fancy digital/analog thing to look at or measure hp and boost. What I need is just something I can throw a switch on and it has a preset amount of boost. Lets say I have 9lb waste gate springs and I want a setting that gives me 14-15lbs. I would like to be able to just flip a switch..doesn't even have to be in the cabin..could be under the hood. But I need something that is reliable, performs good, and isn't very expensive...that sounds like a lot to ask huh 
Thanks
Thanks
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
A simple bleed valve is the easiest and cheapest.
Or attach a small in-line solenoid to an air bleed. Size of air bleed will dictate boost level. Solenoid can be switched from inside cabin.
Or attach a small in-line solenoid to an air bleed. Size of air bleed will dictate boost level. Solenoid can be switched from inside cabin.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Las Cruces, NM
I have posted many times the manual boost controller I use. It a boost block type (my design). It blocks the boost signal from the actuator. It has the following benefits:
1. Since it does not bleed the boost signal you get the fastest spool possible. It build boost slightly faster with just the actuator.
2. Its not affected by load or altitude like a bleed setup.
3. Its cheap and works with all actuators, even actuators with only a single sense line. You need a check valve inline with adjustable relief valve (or back pressure regulator). The relief has to be the pop type (i.e. it does not open until the crack pressure). About $50 for both the relief valve and check valve, plus various fittings.
4. Due to the relief valve and check valve inline the boost will not spike.
The setup could be adapted to an on/off operation by bypassing the controller. I will have to post a schematic with the part numbers again.
Gary
1. Since it does not bleed the boost signal you get the fastest spool possible. It build boost slightly faster with just the actuator.
2. Its not affected by load or altitude like a bleed setup.
3. Its cheap and works with all actuators, even actuators with only a single sense line. You need a check valve inline with adjustable relief valve (or back pressure regulator). The relief has to be the pop type (i.e. it does not open until the crack pressure). About $50 for both the relief valve and check valve, plus various fittings.
4. Due to the relief valve and check valve inline the boost will not spike.
The setup could be adapted to an on/off operation by bypassing the controller. I will have to post a schematic with the part numbers again.
Gary
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Forced Induction Heaven
First thanks for the responses.
I like all the ideas. The one that I have found so far that looks very promising..for about $150 shipped..is the STS Boost Controller..from 0-15psi. Electric Dual Solinoid. Does anybody know anything about the STS Boost Controller?????
Gary if you had more information on your product, that would be cool.
Thanks
I like all the ideas. The one that I have found so far that looks very promising..for about $150 shipped..is the STS Boost Controller..from 0-15psi. Electric Dual Solinoid. Does anybody know anything about the STS Boost Controller?????
Gary if you had more information on your product, that would be cool.
Thanks
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i like the greddy unit, its electronic and you can present two boost settings, high and low, and i think it has dual boost solinoids, pretty good incase one breaks, and i think it goes all the way up to 26-30psi
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Turbosmart, and Dawes do simple block/bleed devices. No doubt there are plenty of other makers.
Gary
