BS3 Install Pics
#1
BS3 Install Pics
figure since i havent really seen a post on 'how to' install an aftermarket ecm that I would do it.
#1-had to make some tabs to be able to mount the bs3 because i couldn't get to the back to put on or tighten nuts. Bolted the box to the tabs on one end and screwed the tabs to the car with some self drilling screws. I really dont know where you would not need to do this unless you have your heater box removed and can bolt it to the new filler panel.
#2-they provided a nice grommet and here's where i put it. the reason the wires go up on the right is because that is where i stowed the excess
.the box will barely fit behind the kickpanel without distorting it. have to push it up and back as far as possible before screwing it down. The loom you see going off to the right is the main power hookup to the unit.
#3 i really look forward having only 1 (ONE) ground to hook up to the engine from the box. Here you can see where the main harness ends up in the bay. The injector harness is not attached yet.
#4 the power hookup allready comes long enough to reach to a rear mounted battery.. here all of the remaining power hookups to the box will take place
*yes that is my MTX sub amp down there, it rode with me on my best pass and no i'm not taking it out
#5 i made this mini battery bracket at work since a rear bracket for these batteries does not exist yet. the flat pattern and bend diagram is for sale if any sponsors would like to produce
more pics of it are here https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/270294-pics-battery-rear-setup-switches.html
not too many days this time of year that it's above freezing AND light when I get home from work. I'll update this thread when the next steps happen.
#1-had to make some tabs to be able to mount the bs3 because i couldn't get to the back to put on or tighten nuts. Bolted the box to the tabs on one end and screwed the tabs to the car with some self drilling screws. I really dont know where you would not need to do this unless you have your heater box removed and can bolt it to the new filler panel.
#2-they provided a nice grommet and here's where i put it. the reason the wires go up on the right is because that is where i stowed the excess
.the box will barely fit behind the kickpanel without distorting it. have to push it up and back as far as possible before screwing it down. The loom you see going off to the right is the main power hookup to the unit.
#3 i really look forward having only 1 (ONE) ground to hook up to the engine from the box. Here you can see where the main harness ends up in the bay. The injector harness is not attached yet.
#4 the power hookup allready comes long enough to reach to a rear mounted battery.. here all of the remaining power hookups to the box will take place
*yes that is my MTX sub amp down there, it rode with me on my best pass and no i'm not taking it out
#5 i made this mini battery bracket at work since a rear bracket for these batteries does not exist yet. the flat pattern and bend diagram is for sale if any sponsors would like to produce
more pics of it are here https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/270294-pics-battery-rear-setup-switches.html
not too many days this time of year that it's above freezing AND light when I get home from work. I'll update this thread when the next steps happen.
#6
wstsid, i dont notice it if it does because i drive my car every da (that it is running)
-i dont know how else you would connect the battery to the car without it?
forgot to add. turbotechnology did the accel install last winter and when that happened they trimmed back the stock harness.. they only cut out what was replaced with the new system. i am planning on leaving all of that the same. leave your stock coolant temp sensor in and your stock wires to it and it will stay working on your gauge. put the new coolant temp sensor in the same spot on the opposite cyl. head
leave the oil pressure sensor, fuel level, alternator wiring, transmission harness alone too.
-i dont know how else you would connect the battery to the car without it?
forgot to add. turbotechnology did the accel install last winter and when that happened they trimmed back the stock harness.. they only cut out what was replaced with the new system. i am planning on leaving all of that the same. leave your stock coolant temp sensor in and your stock wires to it and it will stay working on your gauge. put the new coolant temp sensor in the same spot on the opposite cyl. head
leave the oil pressure sensor, fuel level, alternator wiring, transmission harness alone too.
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#9
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
wstsid, i dont notice it if it does because i drive my car every da (that it is running)
-i dont know how else you would connect the battery to the car without it?
forgot to add. turbotechnology did the accel install last winter and when that happened they trimmed back the stock harness.. they only cut out what was replaced with the new system. i am planning on leaving all of that the same. leave your stock coolant temp sensor in and your stock wires to it and it will stay working on your gauge. put the new coolant temp sensor in the same spot on the opposite cyl. head
leave the oil pressure sensor, fuel level, alternator wiring, transmission harness alone too.
-i dont know how else you would connect the battery to the car without it?
forgot to add. turbotechnology did the accel install last winter and when that happened they trimmed back the stock harness.. they only cut out what was replaced with the new system. i am planning on leaving all of that the same. leave your stock coolant temp sensor in and your stock wires to it and it will stay working on your gauge. put the new coolant temp sensor in the same spot on the opposite cyl. head
leave the oil pressure sensor, fuel level, alternator wiring, transmission harness alone too.
Are you going to run PWM boost control valves?
#10
why would the stock computer need to know anything about tps?
all of the gauges will work, only having to share the crank signal back to the stock computer.
i dont know that i will use their boost control.. my e boost works so good it will take some convincing.
all of the gauges will work, only having to share the crank signal back to the stock computer.
i dont know that i will use their boost control.. my e boost works so good it will take some convincing.
#11
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
why would the stock computer need to know anything about tps?
all of the gauges will work, only having to share the crank signal back to the stock computer.
i dont know that i will use their boost control.. my e boost works so good it will take some convincing.
all of the gauges will work, only having to share the crank signal back to the stock computer.
i dont know that i will use their boost control.. my e boost works so good it will take some convincing.
Oops I forgot "M6" I am 4l80E, and I am using the stock PCM w/HP Tuners for trans tuning..
#12
9 Second Club
An aftermarket ebc allows you to play with the boost in car, and they usually work better and easier than those built in with aftermarket ecus. So why give yourself the hassle of trying to make it work ?
If you use the ecu/s boost control, you will not easily be able to adjust it in-car should you feel the need.
If you use the ecu/s boost control, you will not easily be able to adjust it in-car should you feel the need.
#14
Originally Posted by stevieturbo
An aftermarket ebc allows you to play with the boost in car, and they usually work better and easier than those built in with aftermarket ecus. So why give yourself the hassle of trying to make it work ?
If you use the ecu/s boost control, you will not easily be able to adjust it in-car should you feel the need.
If you use the ecu/s boost control, you will not easily be able to adjust it in-car should you feel the need.
#15
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (21)
Originally Posted by Flipper
Oops I forgot "M6" I am 4l80E, and I am using the stock PCM w/HP Tuners for trans tuning..
So let me get this straight for once and for all.........
You CAN get the stock Gauges to work with BS3 and a M6?????????????????????????????????????
What all has to be done and kept to keep them working???? If so that will save me about $600 in aftermarket gauges.......... MM?? Joe?????
Thanks
Kyle
#16
9 Second Club
A switch from hi to low is one thing, and easy to do on any system. But having full adjustability on boost pressure is nicer..
Though high usually is the best setting.
Ive worked with a few ecu's ( Motec M48, M400, Link, and my own DTA ) and tried to get their own boost control systems working. I am just a novice really, but I got fed up trying and used an ebc instead..
Aftermarket electronic boost controllers just work so well, and pretty easily. The built in ones should work just as well for overall control ( without the user adjustability ), but just seem to be a nightmare to set up.
Though high usually is the best setting.
Ive worked with a few ecu's ( Motec M48, M400, Link, and my own DTA ) and tried to get their own boost control systems working. I am just a novice really, but I got fed up trying and used an ebc instead..
Aftermarket electronic boost controllers just work so well, and pretty easily. The built in ones should work just as well for overall control ( without the user adjustability ), but just seem to be a nightmare to set up.
#18
anyone got a link to info on the BS3?
An aftermarket ebc allows you to play with the boost in car, and they usually work better and easier than those built in with aftermarket ecus. So why give yourself the hassle of trying to make it work ?
You CAN get the stock Gauges to work with BS3 and a M6
P.S. Kyle you will have something from UPS on Monday!
#19
9 Second Club
accessing your laptop while driving, in order to make changes to boost pressure probably wouldnt be very safe.
I know they did similar things in the Fast and the Furious...but the real world isnt quiet like that. ( thankfully )
An aftermarket EBC allows boost adjustments either at the touch of a button, or turn of a ****.
Hard to beat in my opinion.
I know they did similar things in the Fast and the Furious...but the real world isnt quiet like that. ( thankfully )
An aftermarket EBC allows boost adjustments either at the touch of a button, or turn of a ****.
Hard to beat in my opinion.
#20
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (21)
Originally Posted by Flipper
http://www.bigstuff3.com/
Good point, but I Have a Fixed mount Laptop in my truck that I bought soley for tuning and plan to keep it in there 24/7. Now will it be easier than a EBC? Probably not but its very simple to make any adjustments.
Yes I beleive so. I will tell you for sure on Weds.. I used BS3 wiring harness & a trimmed down version of the stock harness. As MM stated, a temp sensor in both heads handles the coolant temp, Oil pressure is Factory harness only, Tach is shared, Factory & BS3, nothing else is an issue. You will still need a aftermarket tuner such as LS1 Edit or HP Tuners to edit out the Check engine light codes, but everything else should work..
P.S. Kyle you will have something from UPS on Monday!
Good point, but I Have a Fixed mount Laptop in my truck that I bought soley for tuning and plan to keep it in there 24/7. Now will it be easier than a EBC? Probably not but its very simple to make any adjustments.
Yes I beleive so. I will tell you for sure on Weds.. I used BS3 wiring harness & a trimmed down version of the stock harness. As MM stated, a temp sensor in both heads handles the coolant temp, Oil pressure is Factory harness only, Tach is shared, Factory & BS3, nothing else is an issue. You will still need a aftermarket tuner such as LS1 Edit or HP Tuners to edit out the Check engine light codes, but everything else should work..
P.S. Kyle you will have something from UPS on Monday!
Joe you ROCK my friend........... Let me know how it does with what stock gauges work......... ill PM you tomorrow. 345 am is way to early to get up........... damn work...
Thanks again
Kyle