Dyno #'s-STS 8psi
02-24-2005, 12:00 PM
#22
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yah but chris your spinning 20's, going thru an auto and like you said started off way lower hp wise. I think your doing just fine, plus your truck and install look great!
02-24-2005, 06:51 PM
#23
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I guy named Jeremy did the tuning. He is from the Tampa area, and he came over to the east coast of Florida to tune a few cars over here. He uses LS1 Edit. He did a great job of explaining everything as we went through it.
What's the difference between SAE and STD on the dyno graph??
What's the difference between SAE and STD on the dyno graph??
02-24-2005, 08:48 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by Blackbird
yah but chris your spinning 20's, going thru an auto and like you said started off way lower hp wise. I think your doing just fine, plus your truck and install look great!
well they are 22's... But they are lighter than stock rims and tires, so thats not slowing me down.
02-24-2005, 09:15 PM
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Hey 2000silverbullet, that's the plan man! I got into it pretty hard today when I got off the highway, finally an open stretch of road, and the car is pulling ridiculously hard. No knock on the scanmaster, and 925 O2 readings. And the driveablilty of the car is much better now too.
02-24-2005, 10:13 PM
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The difference between STD and SAE can be anywhere from a 10 - 50 hp difference! It doesnt really matter but the basic scale is the SAE scale that is the one everyone uses when you scale it to STD the #s are higher. How much did he charge you to tune?
02-25-2005, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by musicmaker1586
The difference between STD and SAE can be anywhere from a 10 - 50 hp difference! It doesnt really matter but the basic scale is the SAE scale that is the one everyone uses when you scale it to STD the #s are higher. How much did he charge you to tune?
The difference between STD and SAE depends on the temp, humidity and elevation at the time of the dyno run. The gap could be up to 50-70rwhp in some extreme cases.
02-25-2005, 12:51 AM
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Chris, Like Heath said, you're in atruck. Your HP #s are MUCH different than an F-body with similar mods. A great cam and tuning can have an F-bod in the 380-400rwhp range on stock heads! On a 5.3L truck you'd be lucky to see 320rwhp. Also didn't you dyno on a Mustang dyno? The #s are always much lower. I see guys in my area dyno 400rwhp on one dyno then hit another one with zero changes and then only do 370rwhp. *shrug*
That's why i hate dynos. I'd rather brag about track #s. You can't cheat on those. LOL
That's why i hate dynos. I'd rather brag about track #s. You can't cheat on those. LOL
02-25-2005, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Blackbird
remember the difference between the dynojet and the street is at least a 1/2 point A/F wise.
That is why my buddy does his tuning on a Mustang dyno. But I truly agree with you on making the car a little more rich.
02-25-2005, 06:17 PM
#34
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The guy charged me $550 for dyno time, and tuning. So far, that's the best money I've spent. I'm interested too, to see what will happen with this 2 step.
Hey SSnakekiller, what did you have done to the 2000 SS A4 to get those numbers?
Hey SSnakekiller, what did you have done to the 2000 SS A4 to get those numbers?
02-25-2005, 06:58 PM
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Dyno numbers are always good to see, the most important number is the number of teeth you see when you are pull into your seat while flooring it! 
Enjoy your ride and good luck with it lasting.
Enjoy your ride and good luck with it lasting.
02-26-2005, 06:05 PM
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Here is info on JL SSnakekiller. As for running out of room on the 60-1 we tried that thinking it would be around 10psi, but it ended up around 14psi 524rwhp 633rwtq (peak TQ 3500rpms). JL LT1 info JL LT1 numbers, and the car trapped 126mph the other night.
02-27-2005, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bradyb
The turbo could be choking out at the upper RPMs too. The 60-1 is great for 5-6 PSI but at 7-8 PSI the GT67 upgrade will keep the curves up till redline. We could swap out your 81 exhaust housing for a 96?
Awesome numbers though for a stock motor and 60-1!
Awesome numbers though for a stock motor and 60-1!
I believe you are 100% correct. I just flew out to Utah yesterday to look at this 1999 SS 382 stroker with an STS kit which has the same problem. Stock cam, stock heads, stock intake but does have aftermarket valve springs. It also happens to be a 383 stroker in an LS6 block with 9:1 pistons and a stock STS turbo. This car made 538 rwhp @ 12psi, 500 rwhp @ 9psi, 428 rwhp @ 6psi.
The below numbers were done in Utah at 4000+ elevation.
On the 12psi run it made max hp (538) at 4,400 rpms and starts to slowly decrease to 500hp up thru 5,300 rpms and then remains at 490hp till 5,700 rpms which is when the driver lets off of the gas.
On the 9psi run it made max hp (500) at 4,500 thru 5,400 rpms then falls off
On the 6psi run it made max hp (428) at 5,000 rpms thru 5,500 rpms then falls off. I was considering buying the t67 upgrade but want to know if it would be enough for this motor? STS said the t67 is good for up to 700hp and still spools up nicely. I live in Florida and the elevation here at most is 150ft.
