offset Crank with F1R
offset Crank with F1R I am probably going to be doing an Iron block set up with my new F1R setup. I was wondering If a offset stock crank would be up to the challenge. I am shooting for a 380. My goals are around 800 to the ground with alky injection. The shop thats doing has a lot of experience with it and build 1000 hp motors all the time. Will it live or should i just leave the crank alone. They are going to be doing that part of the work for free.
SSU'S Vice Mod
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Hazard Co. Maryland
What do you mean by an offset crank?? Are you talking about a crank with different throws in it, like 60*, 90*, 60* like the ford truck v-10s, or are you talking about the old PS trick to change the crank and engine firing order? Or are you talking about a crank that will make the engine fire bank to bank? instead of the left, right right left, right, left, left, right...or something like that...
Originally Posted by sb427f-car
What do you mean by an offset crank?? Are you talking about a crank with different throws in it, like 60*, 90*, 60* like the ford truck v-10s, or are you talking about the old PS trick to change the crank and engine firing order? Or are you talking about a crank that will make the engine fire bank to bank? instead of the left, right right left, right, left, left, right...or something like that...
No he means grinding down the rod journals and giving the crank a longer stroke.. i.e. more cubes...... TSP did this alot.... do a search alot will come up.
Kyle
I believe that he is talking about offset grinding the crank to gain a little more stroke. I wouldn't do it, and I wouldn't run a stock crank in something making that kind of power to the tire. Go with a nice 4340 crank. The last thing you want to be driving over while making a pass in an 800hp car is your crank...and the oil that will be with it.
Originally Posted by Scott 98Z M6
I believe that he is talking about offset grinding the crank to gain a little more stroke. I wouldn't do it, and I wouldn't run a stock crank in something making that kind of power to the tire. Go with a nice 4340 crank. The last thing you want to be driving over while making a pass in an 800hp car is your crank...and the oil that will be with it.
I heard the stock crank was up to the job?? is this not true???
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Verdad Gallardo SSU'S Vice Mod
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,391
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From: Hazard Co. Maryland
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
No he means grinding down the rod journals and giving the crank a longer stroke.. i.e. more cubes...... TSP did this alot.... do a search alot will come up.
Kyle
Kyle
Or that too...I didn't think it was as complex as the things I posted.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2002
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The stock crank is absolutely up to that power level. No question! But you're talking about reducing the rod journal diameter to gain stroke. That will compromise the journal overlap with the main, and also weaken the overall strength of the rod journal. Not advisable.
If you want the strength, go to an aftermarket crank. APE has great prices on 4340 Callies cranks --->>> They're a Sponsor, so look to the left. *EDIT: er, the other left"
Now, if you want to go all bore, then get the 380 cubes that way, use heads with bigger valves with no worry of shrouding, and use the stock crank. That'll go down track all day long with no undue "speedbumps" along the way.
SC-
If you want the strength, go to an aftermarket crank. APE has great prices on 4340 Callies cranks --->>> They're a Sponsor, so look to the left. *EDIT: er, the other left"
Now, if you want to go all bore, then get the 380 cubes that way, use heads with bigger valves with no worry of shrouding, and use the stock crank. That'll go down track all day long with no undue "speedbumps" along the way.
SC-
Offset grinding is a stock spec type class trick. There are smarter ways to make 5 more hp.
BTW: "Extra Stroke" = like a tenth of an inch at the most I think. .090" specifically.
BTW: "Extra Stroke" = like a tenth of an inch at the most I think. .090" specifically.