Friend says no to forged bottom end????????
03-04-2005, 03:27 PM
#21
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basically, you need pistons incase of detonation and such, and rods for higher rpm. but, like some people already said, you might as well do both while youre in there just for the peace of mind that comes from knowing you built it for overkill strength rather than chancing it.
03-04-2005, 03:27 PM
#22
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When stuff has come apart, what has happened guys? Are the piston tops breaking off from the rings butting up, or from detonation? I have seen some pistons damaged from extreme heat, they've had holes in them and have been even partially melted.
03-04-2005, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
When stuff has come apart, what has happened guys? Are the piston tops breaking off from the rings butting up, or from detonation? I have seen some pistons damaged from extreme heat, they've had holes in them and have been even partially melted.
It was a forged piston though.
03-04-2005, 05:40 PM
#24
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so basically what Im hearing is that he's correct, as long as I keep the A/F rich, the engine cool, and don't spin it too fast. Even with 600 rwhp. if so, thats AWESOME 
03-04-2005, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
When stuff has come apart, what has happened guys? Are the piston tops breaking off from the rings butting up, or from detonation? I have seen some pistons damaged from extreme heat, they've had holes in them and have been even partially melted.
This was caused from major detonation.
03-05-2005, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by EightBallWS6
so basically what Im hearing is that he's correct, as long as I keep the A/F rich, the engine cool, and don't spin it too fast. Even with 600 rwhp. if so, thats AWESOME
I think if I were to push it I would have the funds to replace it on hand. Or maybe I am just scared like that.
03-05-2005, 10:55 AM
#28
Like NoGo said, a few years ago there werent 500.00 rods around and off the shelf pistons for 6.125 rods. The car I just bought has stock rods, forged pistons, everything studded, good rod bolts etc and you would say why would someone do that. Answer is it was built almost 3 years ago and that motor with the stock rods cost more to build then one with pro billet rods would cost now..
I have never seen a stock rod fail yet that the piston didnt let go first. Either way if I was doing forged pistons it would be kinda silly not to buy decent rods nowadays IMO.
I have never seen a stock rod fail yet that the piston didnt let go first. Either way if I was doing forged pistons it would be kinda silly not to buy decent rods nowadays IMO.
03-05-2005, 02:25 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by EightBallWS6
so basically what Im hearing is that he's correct, as long as I keep the A/F rich, the engine cool, and don't spin it too fast. Even with 600 rwhp. if so, thats AWESOME
03-05-2005, 09:27 PM
#31
Originally Posted by EightBallWS6
So I have a friend telling me that a stock cube LS1 doesnt NEED a forged bottom end in 700+ crank HP and 14+ psi boost applications. Needless to say, I need a second opinion.
my car has stock bottom end..wouldent dare to admigin to take it over 8psi...
but picking up all forged low compresson iron block tomaorwww...so its boost away time..
03-06-2005, 03:06 PM
#33
Originally Posted by EightBallWS6
So I have a friend telling me that a stock cube LS1 doesnt NEED a forged bottom end in 700+ crank HP and 14+ psi boost applications. Needless to say, I need a second opinion.
People have done it, but in my opinion you are asking for trouble. The error of margin is greater without the rebuilt bottom end.
Good Luck
03-06-2005, 08:53 PM
#35
Originally Posted by EightBallWS6
so basically what Im hearing is that he's correct, as long as I keep the A/F rich, the engine cool, and don't spin it too fast. Even with 600 rwhp. if so, thats AWESOME
