What size drill and tap to use on the oil pan on the return side? Also needs to be done to get oil from above the oil filter, I know place it has to go, but do I need to tap that too or just drill it?

If not john any other phamspeeders out there that can help me with these two questions?

Also, whats the best method to drill the pan? Drain the oil? How do I keep the shavings out? Do I have to JB weld the fitting afterwards to assure no leaks from the new oil return thats now sticking out of the pan.

Sorry for all the questions guys but this part of the install is vague and a lil nerve wracking.
J

 

TTT for John, and please look my pics over to check out the clearance between the K member and the header...maybe you can give me some advice to remedy this lil problem.
J

 

For press side you will need a drill bit and a tap of the correct diameter and pitch.

For the return side, I'm not sure what kind of fitting they gave you but mine, I had to clean off the oil pan surface and weld a fitting on then drill out the pan after the fitting was on then clean all the shavings out.

 

Yep clear as day there but as for what pitch and diameter who knows. No documents, instructions or handy helper tips came with either oil line. For the return I have a threaded barb fitting, It threads into the pan. Its a 45 deg elbow fitting...guess I could go match it up at Home Depot Racers supply and maybe find the right tap there too.

The small SS braided feedline will have to be matched up to I rekon.
J

 

I have a thread pitch tool that tells you what the pitch of a bolt is, you can get them with most tap/die sets

 

I'll find it all tomorrow. I'm use to being on my own when it comes to these fun projects Just thought I'd try the board first since there is atleast two people out there with Phamspeed kits on their T/A and camaro, but apparently I'm the only one who installed it himself. Thought John or his other buddy might pop in tonight here on tech.
J

 

Yep on my own for this:
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The feed line you'll have to tap into that piece on top of the oil filter. It is a 1/8"npt

The return line either you can find a place or go where I tell my customers. Right beside or just above the low oil sensor. It is a 3/8"npt fitting

 

it is easy to remove the piece above the oil filter. this is where the oil temp sensor is located on the vettes. 2 bolts and it comes off. drill it and tap it 1/8th pipe on a bench. that way no shavings get into the oil system....as for the return in the pan, apply grease liberally to the pointed end of the bit. drill slowly. clean and regrease the tip often. the grease will trap most of the shavings. be careful when you tap the threads in the pan. it is thin. and since it will only have a couple of threads, just snug the drain fitting into the pan. if it leaks a little, you can always tighten it more. if you over do it and pull the threads out, it won't be good.

be sure and use plenty of teflon paste on both pipe threads.

 

SR71 Now thats the help i'm looking for, got the 1/8 NPT tap covered, had it sitting in the tool box for some forgotten project way back when.
The 3/8 NPT tap i'll have to go out and get. Thanks for the tips on how to drill and tap both, my D1 was self contained and so was my powerdyne...so i've never done this. You are a great help, thanks

I think once I get the pan tapped and the 3/8 fitting threaded in there i'll mix up some JB weld to seal it for good so it won't move or leak if it gets bumped or banged.

....I am a customer you didn't tell me This info is vital to a DIY'er, if a small list of tools needed was included, and small write up on how and where to tap...that would have been a time saver. Its my DD so I need it back on the road...also need a turbo to get that done.

Might want to let customers know that if they have a BMR k member, it gets in the way and will have to be "clearance" with a grinder to get enough room for the passenger side header flange -V band- Y pipe flange combo. See my post with the install pics, That clearance gets even worse when the engine is let down...I have it jacked up quite a bit. Or make the header flange come .5 inch closer to the starter...there is room to do it.

Glad I have this great board to come and ask questions on, it might take a few hours if that but your questions will almost be answered 100% of the time.
J

 

3/8?

I woudl go at least 1/2"

 

ya the bigger the better

 

3/8 npt is pretty big. I think you use an 11/16 bit to drill it. 3/8npt will support a -10 line no problem. that's 1/2 id.

 

Yep the line is pretty damn big, 1/2 inch like stated above, I don't see any problem with this line, I'm comfortable with John's experience with turbo systems and will use the line provided.
J

 

yeah, 3/8"npt is plenty!! You should see some of the oem lines on mitsubishis, mazdas, ect..

 

For the return line why drill a new hole, just use the low oil level sensor port. If oil level ever got that low you would be in deep trouble. I have Incon return through this location, of course pump fed. No tapping, no drilling, no special fitting, just -8 AN and your done.

Gary

 

This sounds like a good ideal. Do you have a pics of this?

 

For real. What size line is supplied John? -8 or -10?

 

Since you don't have the A/C in the car, did you get a forward facing header?? Would that issue have been solved with a forward facing header? Would there still be room with the A/C and an aftermarket K-memeber? Although, the likelihood that I'd run into this problem when I go aftermarket k-member will be slim, just curious. (meaning by that point the AC will probably be gone.

 

He doesn't have the forward facing headers. I think you can't have A/C with those.